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I have just fitted a full set (4) of semi sealed head lights to my 89 Brumby I am wondering whats the highest wattage I can go before having wiring problems. I am running (Factory) standard wattage for now.

You need to add a relayed circuit to run your lights, then you wont have orange lights and the standard wattage lights are quiet adequate.

He is right Wombat, the factory wiring is not even up to scratch for normal wattage.
ORANGE!! oooooh NO

Run relays ASAP, it will give you 30% more light withou touching the bulbs.
But, then you can run H4 conversions in them safely and really get some good light happening.

WHITE LIGHT! yeah baby!

Switches will melt if you up the wattage without doing this.

I know this for a fact (he says remembering the smell).

So you're both saying re-wire the standard headlights?

I don't think I'll see much difference under my IPF 800s but this is interesting stuff - might be good for my 4-light coupe.

MUDRAT wrote:So you're both saying re-wire the standard headlights?

I don't think I'll see much difference under my IPF 800s but this is interesting stuff - might be good for my 4-light coupe.

Exactly Mr MUD,
Use the existing wiring only to trigger the relays.
Run big fat power wires to the lights and source and earths.
Use a relay for Low, High and each set of spotties.
The Narva H4 conversions are excellent for the 4 light MY front ends.

130w/90w in the outers and 130w in the inners should light up your life with no need for spotties.

130w/90w in the outers and 130w in the inners should light up your life with no need for spotties.

Thats exactly what I need for travelling up and down the west coast blinding & burning all those furry animals that want to jump out at me.

Cheers for the feed back. Troy

Repco sell them at about $60 a set, get some good quality globes as well.

-Don't touch the glass in the globes, ever!

-On the three metal locator tabs (rear of bulb), dip them in liquid silicone or anything sightly rubbery. Liquid elecrical tape is good for this.
Do it the night before.
This stops the metal to metal contact to the retaining spring and eliminates vibration.

-130w lights get very hot and fragile, vibration is what kills them.
I blew 3 before doing this, now I have had a pair lasting 14 months and counting.

I can see for miles and miles and miiiiiiiiiiiileeeeeeeees!

I can see you !

So would silastic do for this (I can get hold of it very easily).

Any certian brand name globes you would recommend.

Also Me being an auto electrics virgin will these lights affect my altenator/ as in will I need to upgrade it?

Cheers again, Troy.

WombatRacing wrote:So would silastic do for this (I can get hold of it very easily).

Any certian brand name globes you would recommend.

Also Me being an auto electrics virgin will these lights affect my altenator/ as in will I need to upgrade it?

Cheers again, Troy.

Silicone will work, set the tabs into the silicone on little moulded 'mounts' on a bit of tape. Let them set and peel the tape off.

Squeze the rubber up when taking up the spring pressure when installing them.

BOSCH or ahem (you will cough too when you see the price) PIAA

Re alternators...What amperage is your existing one rated to?
It should handle the upgrade Ok, check the rating though.

What you are doing is giving better wiring capacity and switching.
Cleaning up the voltage drop or "plugging the leaks".

Instead of the 11.3 volts at the bulbs, you will see 12.6 and 12.8 volts.

And I mean SEE!

Is anybody running HID's in their 4 globe Brumby as either globe kits or as an Aux driving light? I am planning on swapping out the sealed beams with H4's and doing the relay mod to get the voltage up but I still have a feeling I will be looking for more light.

hey, i to also have a brumby and find that the lights arent really bright enough, just wondering could someone explain the relay thing to get them a bit brighter? i dont know much about this stuff so any info would be greatly appreciated. though ive put the blue gas charged globes in the low beam lights, and they are already pretty white, just not bright enough, if that makes sense.

The relay takes the power that normaly runs the lights to switch itself on, then gives the lights power directly from the battery (via a fuse of course)

Theres not a lot to it but if you not sure or not confident you might consider a HID/H4 conversion kit which basically comes with all the relays and everything wired up and ready to plug in.

I don't mean to be patronising it's just one area you definitely DO NOT want to be dodgy.

Jordan.

BaronVonChickenPants wrote:I don't mean to be patronising it's just one area you definitely DO NOT want to be dodgy.

Jordan.

Jordan that is a good call and I am glad you made it.

Big globes pull huge amps and if there is just ONE weak point in the whole set up...just one loose connection.
The penalty is -
Your baby could be that black car body you see on the side of the freeway.

You can't use too much heat shrink, but you can use too much electrical tape!

I actually meant it from the point of not wanting the lights to go out when in use, but yes avoiding a chared wreckages is also a valid point.

Jordan.