new PANIC MY twin head lights ???

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun May 11, 2008 8:48 pm

original post edited

I have found my twin headlamp Brumby '92 shines all four lamps on high beam when I turn my headlamps on. When I switch to HIGH or flash HIGH I notice a change in the lights against the wall , as in the low beam switches off. I asked someone to confirm which lights work when as I have only driven this baby home eighteen months ago. Matatak has cleared up my query.

I have a relay that clicks on the rhs strut tower when switching yet its wiring is too light for lights. I have found the headlamp relays (round metal) next to the fuse panel and the two fuses L and R in the fuse panel. I have swapped in and tested in me other Brumby another combo light/indicator switch. The switch works OK in my other Brumby and does not fix the problem in the 92

The wiring diagram for the 92 appears to also be same for late Brumby and 84 MY though my book is 87 print so does not have the extra strut relays

Anyway IMPORTANT : I just disconnected the both inner high beam units each at the back plug and now my outer high/low lights work correctly. So chasing problem further. Wanna register tomorrow ! Also recall seeing one inner light is installed upside down?

Reading here again I think "check one out at a time now"

I also have replaced the dash pad 18 months ago and not driven since, maybe I screwed up in refit ?? do not recall a lights test on pre purchase, but do recall the lights looking bright - think i know why

So, if you seen this problem before, please comment

Jono

11:45pm update

It is down to the light bulb of the RHS inner (HIGH BEAM). Suspecting the spring retainer clip was arcing against a termnal of the light I pulled bulb just out of the light socket.... I have observed now the bulb arcing on the body of the spot where it fits in at the back. When it arcs or is fitted in contact with the headlamp unit (where it is supposed to be ?!) it produces the problem. Pull the bulb out on its own and things work fine
I turned light unit up the correct way and found the bulb was fitted to its socket so the three prongs looked right from the back. I could insulate with tape as a pass rego trick but that'll burn off with use. Maybe just feed the light one wire from the back and let it earth from the light base in future

WHY ???

Matatak · Post by **Matatak** » Sun May 11, 2008 8:53 pm

outers work only on low.

both inner and outer when Highbeam is on

the outers i beleive are Dual filament and will switch to the high side when on highbeam.

Matt · Post by **Matt** » Sun May 11, 2008 9:23 pm

almost certain to be the stalk and little piece of plastic broken....

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Mon May 12, 2008 12:01 am

Found It !!!

IT would have helped if i compared the other driving light

peeling the offenders rubber boot back to reveal the words drive beside the power wire and ground beside the earth wire, then test between car ground and rear of light on the good one and bad one.

the good one has an insulator mount between the light body and where the globe metal ground fits and the one some silly goose fitted upside down does not have an insulator - IT MUST have been a replacement and the wrong one at that. The body is grounding and switching on the light and the whole high beam circuit as soon as light switch was turned on.

So insulation tape will do until i can get the right light

I am gonna be discussing this with a certain senior constable who was the last to be driving this beast....mutter, mutter

might also have helped if I rang former owner (uncle) but didna wanna sound like i was complaining nor might he know what his big fella in blue was up to

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Mon May 19, 2008 6:23 pm

right, no one knows anything about these lights only working on HIGH BEAM with previous ownership. What is now known though is that the Brumby was not factory fitted with these H4 halogen lights - they are after market and the left is different to the right in the detail at the rear where the bulb sits. If you consider a halogen upgrade without relays like mine is you need to skip the driving light (inners) that are not insulating the bulb housing to light body or you get my problem

I think if i hook up a relay for each the left and right inners and wire them differently i can remove the emergency insulator (electrical tape that will melt soon) but left will have a different circuit than the right to confuse the next bastard that comes along unsuspectingly - probably me when I have forgotten all about it !

tex · Post by **tex** » Sun May 25, 2008 3:05 am

I had a similar problem with my brumby one rego check turnedout the earth screw which also helps hold in the dash had vibrated loose!

P.S. If you have 12 volts on both sides of a fillament then because there is no difference the power doesn't go anywhere and the light stays off for example the idiot light on your alternator!

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun May 25, 2008 11:19 am

My theory on this light circuit is that to switch on headlights provides power to HIGH but the high beam switch provides the earth to actually switch them on. Noticed the twin light sigmas have H4 lights but not the insulated circuits so HINT would be to source your lights cheaply from a Sigma wreck if they have H4 and reconfigure the relay ciruit to make it all work

mattl200 · Post by **mattl200** » Sat May 31, 2008 2:31 am

i had the same problem with mine ended up running h4 inners and not using the low beam on the globes in them