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Don't forget the basics, your earth return has to equal your +ve.
Don't forget the chassis/gearbox/body earths.
If you are going to run something high current, like a big amp, run its power cables direct to the battery, with a suitable breaker.

So now I've got a big pile of cable waiting and ready to go. Next comes the terminals! Going with a mix of heat-shrink sealed water proof crimps for the engine bay/outsides and regular insulated crimp terminals for the interior. Gone with a few different suppliers for price and availability reasons. Didn't go with Carroll terminals in the end as I would need to take out a small mortgage just for all the heat shrink terminals I need, but I didn't go with cheap chinese rubbish either. Also bought a few relays to get me started (will need more) and I'm happy to see there are a few types of LED flasher unit available for indicators and hazards. The all LED tail lights looks to be a go

Pretty much found everything I need, except for one terminal! Can anyone identify the one below? Very intricate 2 piece jobbie. There were two of them in the Liberty fuse box underneath inside a connector. Big chunky 10mm spades going to big chunky wires direct to battery via fusible link. I can't find anything near them online, proprietary Subaru perhaps? If I can't find them I will probably just put the empty plug back in the fuse box and not use those two terminals. Didn't want to just splice into the existing 2 wires because they were both spliced into each other with not much spare wire hanging down. It's not like I need another huge power feed in my wiring anyway

You could just solder the cable to the spades, then cover with heatshrink.
Crimp connectors, unless done carefully with the right tool for the connector can be unreliable.
I solder then heat shrink.
If soldered correctly they are reliable.
Poorly soldered causes other problems.
Its always been a debate about solder vs crimp.
Either, done correctly are great, either not done correctly will cause problems.

I use utilux H953 think they are brass female spade 6.` mm and tool #62 ? does a perfect crimp of stripped wire and then the insulated bit crimp ...just like the back of an aussie made wash mash or stove then choice of colour of 6mm ? heatshrink.

Soldering to those spades might be a bit tricky, they are deep inside a plastic housing for the plug to slip into. If I need to I'm sure it could be done though. I've bought a ratcheting crimp tool with a couple of different die sets; one for insulated and one for non-insulated terminals (think M shaped top to curl the two tangs over into the middle) Ordered an assortment of connectors: Male and female spades in varying sizes, ring terminals, bullet connectors, butt splices in insulated and non-insulated variety. Plus a pile of glue-lined heat shrink for protection of the non-insulated ones. The insulated ones are tin plated copper, non-insulated seem to be brass.

I'm going with the crimping route and done a bit of research on it. Seems to me if you've got the right tools and take a bit of care then they are reliable and strong. There is fierce debate of course over this, but I didn't like the idea of solder joints and vibration causing stress cracks over time. Plus crimping is quicker and less messy, you don't need 3 hands

Looks like a fuse blade holder :



Might want to ditch it & get something more suitable ...

Cheers, Bantum ...