HELP! 04 Forry EJ25 wont start!

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Thu Nov 13, 2008 10:16 am

Wow Karen, this is epic! Hope you get the solution you're after soon without much more of those precious $$$'s...

To break it in you should bring it over here for me to have a look-see

Cheers

Bennie

L-Raiser · Post by **L-Raiser** » Thu Nov 13, 2008 10:38 am

El_Freddo wrote:Wow Karen, this is epic! Hope you get the solution you're after soon without much more of those precious $$$'s...

To break it in you should bring it over here for me to have a look-see

Cheers

Bennie

Hey Bennie.....well....if fuel prices continue to fall at this rate....I might just do that mate...!

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Thu Nov 13, 2008 11:07 am

L-Raiser wrote:Hey Bennie.....well....if fuel prices continue to fall at this rate....I might just do that mate...!

Over here its already cheaper than it was last year when we dropped in... gets me thinking it does - once the EJ's in...

Bennie

vincentvega · Post by **vincentvega** » Thu Nov 13, 2008 11:53 am

I still reckon at this point the best way out is to get Al to prep a loom for you, then have someone wire it in. Once the loom is prepped and labeled it wont be a big job.

If mechanic #3 has finished all the mechanicals then you are not far off getting the thing running!

L-Raiser · Post by **L-Raiser** » Thu Nov 13, 2008 12:08 pm

vincentvega wrote:I still reckon at this point the best way out is to get Al to prep a loom for you, then have someone wire it in. Once the loom is prepped and labeled it wont be a big job.

If mechanic #3 has finished all the mechanicals then you are not far off getting the thing running!

Hi Vince, yeah Im considering doing exactly that....getting AL prep the loom as well as possible, then giving it all to an auto sparky here in Perth....

robdddd · Post by **robdddd** » Thu Nov 13, 2008 2:20 pm

Think it was Al that did my loom for an ej22, came with the wires taged A, B, C etc and a list of what each was, where to power it up and place a fuse, all very easy to install, if you can install a car stero you could do this.

rob

AndrewT · Post by **AndrewT** » Thu Nov 13, 2008 5:49 pm

yeah send it to AL or somebody else who has done them before successfully. Then get somebody here to install it, this part is VERY EASY and any half decent auto sparky should be able to do it.

jzk25 · Post by **jzk25** » Thu Nov 13, 2008 7:48 pm

Box it up complete with ecu, immobiliser unit, key and barrell and send it over. $300 to do it(normally $231 for a non immobiliser early loom). You are just paying for our hourly rate here so it is pretty good value(speed of work comes with experience).

I will even run an SG engine with it to guarantee it is all working.

vincentvega · Post by **vincentvega** » Thu Nov 13, 2008 8:57 pm

you should advertise these rates on the board somewhere. You would get a ton of business.....

Subafury · Post by **Subafury** » Thu Nov 13, 2008 9:32 pm

im sure another member on here could even help u install it if you get stuck. the second part is easy!.

jzk25 · Post by **jzk25** » Fri Nov 14, 2008 6:43 am

vincentvega wrote:you should advertise these rates on the board somewhere. You would get a ton of business.....

Better check with Brett how many bourbons that will cost me first.

Will post a pic of the instruction sheet for loom fitment also.

jzk25 · Post by **jzk25** » Fri Nov 14, 2008 7:14 am

This is Leon's(Subarute) wiring legend for his MY-Auto EJ22 conversion. It includes extra stuff for his auto trans wiring. We used a 97 PCM type(ecu and tcu in one unit) control unit and wiring. An immobiliser equipped wiring harness will include a couple of extras like immobiliser status light and door switch, otherwise it is the same up until "I" on the list.
There is obviously some light hearted ribbing included in the notes at the bottom that would not be included normally unless I know you enough to give you a ribbing.

Leon’s Super Special Wiring Explanation For Subaru EJ Engine

A – Battery Power Supply – Connect to Battery Positive via 30A Circuit Breaker

B – Ignition Switch Power – Connect to ignition switch via 15A Fuse

C – Starter – Connect to original MY starter solenoid wire.

D – Vehicle Speed Sensor – Square wave signal switching to ground. Use VDO 412 009 sensor.

E – Radiator Fan – Power to engine fans from ecu controlled relay.

F – Engine Speed Output – For Tachometer. Will probably require tacho booster to work with original MY dash

G – Air Conditioning switch. – 12v signal from A/C switch to request AC operation.

G1 – Air conditioner relay control – Ecu grounds this wire when AC operation is available. Connect to AC relay coil. If you wish to have AC controlled by the ecu I will draw you a schematic for it. You can just use the Compressor clutch wire to signal the ecu to idle up without actually controlling it.

H – Check Engine Light – Earth Switch for dash mounted 12V warning light.

I – Fuel Pump Positive – To fuel pump positive terminal from ecu controlled relay.

J – Hold switch – Switch this pin to ground when hold function required.

K – Brake switch – Connect to brake light side of brake switch.

L – Kickdown Switch – Switches to ground near full throttle. Mount momentary switch on throttle pedal.

M – Power Switch – connect to original plug on Liberty gearshifter.

N – FWD switch – reverts to fwd when this wire is grounded.

P – AWD Solenoid wire – This is the wire that you will need to fiddle with to lock the awd clutches when doing silly things up the beach or in mud holes. Ask Dane how to wire it up if you want to do it.

All connections should be soldered and insulated. ECU should be mounted in a dry secure position. All wiring should be insulated and secured after the engine has been started and is operating correctly.

The Brown 6 Pin relay is the ignition relay.
The tin top relay with the green connector is the fuel pump relay.
The white and black pairs of connectors are for self diagnosis. They should not be connected except when in diagnosis mode.(See workshop manual).
The Yellow connector is for the Subaru Select Monitor Scan tool(or other aftermarket scan tools).
The bosch type relay with the fuse block next to it is for the thermo fan power. USE THIS. DO NOT USE THE ORIGINAL CRAP MY WIRING.

Any questions should be referred to Al. Don’t hesitate to call if you have issues. I will only ridicule you for asking silly questions behind your back to be sure to not hurt your feelings. [email protected].

P.S. Tell all your friends!

vincentvega · Post by **vincentvega** » Fri Nov 14, 2008 9:52 am

jzk25 wrote:Better check with Brett how many bourbons that will cost me first

Atleast you understand the currency used in these parts

Outback bloke · Post by **Outback bloke** » Fri Nov 14, 2008 10:30 am

LOL, it should be currency every where.

I have added a banner link for your (Al) shop at the top of the page already. If you want to do up a price list or a bit of a "we do this.." type thing I will make it a sticky at the top.

jzk25 · Post by **jzk25** » Fri Nov 14, 2008 10:46 am

Sounds good Brett, let me know how many bourbons it will be.

jzk25 · Post by **jzk25** » Thu Nov 20, 2008 7:04 am

This thing going yet?
I have ecu and manifold from a 99 Liberty for cheap if things don't work out. Someone bought the engine and didn't want the rest(save on freight cost).

L-Raiser · Post by **L-Raiser** » Thu Nov 20, 2008 10:11 am

jzk25 wrote:This thing going yet?
I have ecu and manifold from a 99 Liberty for cheap if things don't work out. Someone bought the engine and didn't want the rest(save on freight cost).

Hi AL...no mate, not running yet. I have to wait until Monday morning 24th where we are going to try swapping out the individual componants of this new loom in my car and then cross my fingers, eyes, legs, etc etc that she shows some degree of life.... Failing that....I will be sending you my 03 Auto Loom/Ecu to cut down and prep for me.

Out of curiosity, how much are you asking for your 99 Manifold & Loom AL?

I was HOPING bigtime that my current mech would not charge me the full amount for my failed loom install and take into consideration my my useless 04 loom/ecu, but he insists that I get charged the full $900 for the wiring whether it works or not because of "allllll the time spent on my car".

I was hoping to go elsewhere with my new loom, but I dont think I can afford it now... I may be stuck with this guy now. He has agreed to stick to his fixed price for install, until car is running.....

Now where did I leave those headache pills.....

AndrewT · Post by **AndrewT** » Fri Nov 21, 2008 7:19 pm

If the wiring is all that's left to do on the car, take your car elsewhere - somewhere that can do wiring.

You should pay this guy for all work completed so far as quoted, but not pay for anything related to the wiring.

In Australia if something is f_cked, you don't pay for it!

vincentvega · Post by **vincentvega** » Fri Nov 21, 2008 8:12 pm

absolutely agree. hes a prick if he wants to charge you for wiring that doesnt work.

pay him for the mechanical work. then get out of there

SuBaRiNo · Post by **SuBaRiNo** » Fri Nov 21, 2008 9:52 pm

It's a tricky one because if you supply a faulty product and he fits it to find the product is at fault then it isn't his fault that is doesn't work. The only debate is if the product is infact faulty or it his fault for not having the skills to do it. *shrugs*

Dave