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Hi Guys, I was just wondering if anyone had any "Tricks of the trade" for removing drive shafts both front and rear from the hubs on brumby's (no doubt the L series are the same). Due to them have a non-tapered shaft that slides into the wheel bearing, i've found i've had to *cough* gently tap the end of the shaft till it comes out. No suprises, this has resulted in a slight mushrooming of the shaft end, I started with a nylon mallet to prevent this, but the shaft wasn't moving at all, even with a regular hammer it took quite an effort to finally get the shafts out. The thing i'm worried about now, is getting the mongrels back in.... If they were that hard to get out, I think i've got buckleys chance getting them back in, no doubt anti sieze will help but I don't think that will be enough on it's own. Any suggestions?

if you leave the big castle nut on it when you bash the end of it you wont effect the splines or thread

once you loosen it you should be able to slide it out by hand. WD40 makes a big big difference.

alex

Most mechanics remove the castellated nut , turn it around and screw it back on plain side out until just before the outer end of the CV joint is flush with the back of the nut .

The best knockometer to use is a copper faced one because it is reasonably heavy but made of a softer material than steel so shouldn't mark or damage it . It needs a reasonably sharp smack but not like your swinging your arm up above your head . As soon as it moves back the nut off a little and gently tap it in . Remove the nut and it should just about pull out backwards through the bearings - provided the inner end is off the diffs half shafts .

A .

for the fronts ( on an L series) by best advice is to undo the sway bar links and tap a largish flathead into the hub to help prise it apart. then a nice, well aimed, strong kick on the hub shoud have the strut busted out and its a shitload easier to get the shaft in and out. use the big screwdriver again for installation.

I bought a universal pulley remover from Supercheap. It has been handy for this job and others and I don't think it was too expensive. Makes the job a lot easier. Reinstalation...once you get the shaft started, the castle nut will wind it all together. Any of the other ideas in this thread will work as well of course.

When mechanic friend and I did my RX front shafts we (he initially) did the "tap" thing on the joints and then removed the ball joint from the strut foot via the above mentioned spread method . Also separated the tie rod end from the steering arms and removed the calipers complete . You then have enough leeway to get the inner joint off the diffs half shaft and pull the CV end out of the hub bearings . I then guided the shafts over the top of the strut foot and out from under the H brake cable .

Fitting the good spare shafts was a reverse of the above but the way to get the CV's into the bearings was to tap on the outer side of the strut foot (dust cover bolt heads) with the copper mallet to guide the axle so to speak into the bearings . It has to go through squarely or it won't work , you need to look at the shaft entering the inner bearings inner race and tap the strut foot evenly so it lines up . If it doesn't as my second one didn't tap it out from the outer side and try again .

DO NOT forget to refit and tighten the strut foots crab bolts or the ball joint could pull itself out and collapse the front suspension . Triple check everything because your safety depends upon it .

A .