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Bang Bang Bang
Posted: Thu Nov 02, 2006 5:26 pm
by KERAZY
yep. driving the other night, just crawling around nicely. gave it a little stick before a corner, started slowing down, back down to second, decelled til about 20, started going again round the corner, wasn't exactly full-on quick, normal accell speed. get up to 50 in 3rd, then start backing off for a corner, and 'BANG'. im thinkin wtf.. i give it a tiny bit on a straight after a corner, then let the accel off again, then BANG, then i stopped the car. im thinkin 'CVs, i know it'. I turned out to be right. stuck it in first and slowly let the clutch out, left CV was spinning, the car wasn't moving anywhere. i havent had a good look at it, but i reckon ive snapped a joint.
righto, so now what? im dismantling it in a week, is there anything i should know before i do it? what do i need? where do you get the cones to slide the boots on?
Posted: Thu Nov 02, 2006 5:36 pm
by BrennyV
Wack her into 4wd and have some RWD fun

THEN
All you need is a good punch set to get the pins out from the shafts! Bout it. Very easy process

ohh and be sure not to over tighten your castle nut...
Posted: Thu Nov 02, 2006 5:54 pm
by Matt
Also a CV tool comes in handy for the straps if you are replacing just that CV.
Posted: Thu Nov 02, 2006 10:01 pm
by mattims
you can over tighten the castle nut? is that the big one on the outside. I thought it was done up as tight as could possibly be done.
Posted: Thu Nov 02, 2006 10:14 pm
by D3V1L
but when ur andrewt, u manage to strip the thread on those castle nuts....
dave
Posted: Thu Nov 02, 2006 10:45 pm
by coupe
You need to tighten them up to 150 foot/pounds.
Posted: Fri Nov 03, 2006 9:23 am
by mattims
that all, well mine are way over that. Will it cause any damage to the bearings?
Posted: Fri Nov 03, 2006 10:03 am
by AndrewT
Yes I actually managed to completely destroy the thread on the outer CV where the castellated nut goes. I've always been told by various people to just "do them as tight as possible" but I guess I don't know my own strength

Now they are done up slightly less than as tight as possible.
Posted: Fri Nov 03, 2006 10:10 am
by steptoe
broke shaft....sh1t how then do you undo nut with no gearbox to help hold it ... just the brakes ??
Posted: Fri Nov 03, 2006 9:01 pm
by KERAZY
yeh when we did the boots, we just stuck the handbrake on and held the brakes. completely different thing i spose, but it was in neutral when we did the boots. silly me.
who wants to sell me some boots and a CV?
im unaware of this 'CV Tool's existance, and i dont have a torque wrench, we go to the point where it requires a hammer to tighten it (hitting the spanner - big freaking spanner)
Posted: Sun Nov 05, 2006 5:00 pm
by KERAZY
thank jesus with a stick. it wasnt the CV.
i dont know how i didnt think of it. it was the hub! splines had worn away. the banging was it slipping when it wasnt as worn down. i shoulda thought of it sooner.
now i know why when you drop the clutch, it bangs. silly me.
i had an extra hub connected to solid discs in the shed. changed the discs over, used the other hub, its all good now.
Posted: Sun Nov 05, 2006 5:34 pm
by D3V1L
good to hear u solved the problem mate
dave
Posted: Mon Nov 06, 2006 5:03 pm
by El_Freddo
I have also had klunking/banging noises up front and presumed the cv's were on the way out...
Turned out that my castle nuts weren't real tight, the right hand one started squeeking as the wheel turned when i was out four wheel driving on saturday, after i got out to find out what it might possibly be and found the castle nut finger tight (still with pin in). Done it up and did the left one last night.
Could i have a bearing collapsing on me to make a castle nut finger tight?
Sorry if i've hijacked your thread.
Posted: Mon Nov 06, 2006 6:22 pm
by KERAZY
nah its cool. funnily enough, my castle nut was loose also. do you think it could be related?