Rebuilding EA82T

Vortex75 · Post by **Vortex75** » Sat Feb 07, 2015 4:18 pm

Hey guys, sorry I've been quiet for a while. Seems my Vortex engine wants a rebuild, it's running rough as and it's spitting water out the exhaust. I've tried some more sealwel (thx Jonno!) but unfortunately it didn't work this time. I just want to keep it standardish, maybe put some better cams in it but I don't know what or where to get them. Any opinions would be nice. Also do anyone have some tips for getting the engine out easy? Thx
Canny

Post by **Bantum** » Sat Feb 07, 2015 6:58 pm

If you want to do a quick & easy job, go and buy a cheap import / second hand & swap it over.

You'll need a engine crane, some sort of stand to work on it + get hold of a manual if you don't have one already.

Other option is to put car on hoist and lift the body off complete engine /gearbox sub assembly like they did in the factory - only reversed.

In my opinion the EA82 T is not really worth the trouble to recon, ( although there are a few on here that have done it at some cost ) I'd get a later EJ model & gearbox to suit. ( there are a lot more options with these also )

Do bit of research beforehand to see what's involved in each option.

Hope that helps ..

Ciao, Bantum ...

Vortex75 · Post by **Vortex75** » Sat Feb 07, 2015 10:53 pm

Thanks mate but I want to keep it original so I'll stick with the EA82. The motors only got 180,000kms on it so it should be all good once it has a full rebuild kit through it.
Canny

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun Feb 08, 2015 6:48 am

an import EA82T may be a little on the hard to find list, may also need head gaskets done anyway. I bought one in 2006, tested OK by what ever means the importer or their Japan agents used to 'hot run' it. I doubted it could be hot run without an ecu, with the wiring loom disconncted in a hurry .....

Pulled the heads of under warranty to find one head had crack between the valves. This really upset the importer, telling my warranty was voided by pulling the heads off. His view changed when I lobbed into his office the next day, his engine in the Brumby's tub

The spend money on an import would be better spent on doing your donk - and as far as I suspect heads only ! Cams - read on USMB of idle issues when aftermarket grinds are used, and no real power gains, more change in where it happens. New head gaskets from Subaru, head service limit grind - it is a timing belt set up - timing alters minutely. Want more, shift the rebuilds up to about 8 or ten psi

Subydoug · Post by **Subydoug** » Sun Feb 08, 2015 9:19 am

If your just doing headgaskets you dont need the hoist. I did my N/A vortex maybe 8 months back without removing the engine. It isnt too expensive to do. You need a bunch of gaskets (maybe 80 bucks) and some time to do it. If you dont have any tools it may get a little bit more pricy. If you haven't overheated the crapper out of it the heads will probably be flat, mine were. If not it may cost an extra 100 to get them surfaced and tested for cracks. I used kero to test mine for cracks.

The biggest must is a 10mm ratchet spanner

.

Regards

Doug

Vortex75 · Post by **Vortex75** » Sun Feb 08, 2015 9:57 am

Thanks for the info guys. I'm only going to take the heads off to start with, hopefully I won't have to go any further.
Canny

sublime · Post by **sublime** » Sun Feb 08, 2015 12:50 pm

Most likely you will find the heads are cracked (They all are!) and once the crack makes it through to the exhaust port... Goodbye heads! Finding good heads might be quite difficult these days.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun Feb 08, 2015 6:09 pm

Subydoug wrote:If your just doing headgaskets you dont need the hoist. I did my N/A vortex maybe 8 months back without removing the engine. It isnt too expensive to do. You need a bunch of gaskets (maybe 80 bucks) and some time to do it. If you dont have any tools it may get a little bit more pricy. If you haven't overheated the crapper out of it the heads will probably be flat, mine were. If not it may cost an extra 100 to get them surfaced and tested for cracks. I used kero to test mine for cracks.

The biggest must is a 10mm ratchet spanner .

Regards

Doug

just a ten mm ratchet ?? I keep buying every different 10mm open end and ring spanner I see ! Most recent was a gear wrench branded open end ring. The ring is built in ratchet and the open end has a tricking ratchet function as well.

Pull the engine so you can dismantle and inspect all the nasty expensive pipe bits, retap the drain plug on turbo side head, replace rusted out banjo bolts, water hose with silicone and ezicoil spring thing and use genuine gaskets - bit more than 80 bucks though !

tambox · Post by **tambox** » Sun Feb 08, 2015 7:39 pm

Careful with your analysis of the crack between the valve seats.
If it is only a minor crack with no signs of leaking (and the seats look good), provided you don't overheat the engine in the future, they will be fine.
If the cracks go up into the port passages or show signs of leaking (stains around them or clean spots), some engine places can weld them up, although a lot have given up, on these heads.
Good EFI heads are still around that will bolt straight on.

Subydoug · Post by **Subydoug** » Sun Feb 08, 2015 8:15 pm

Alas, I wouldnt remember, I had all the gaskets already

. OEM would be pricy compared to the endurotech ones I used. Both my heads were cracked between the valves. I would be surprised if there is any ea82 out there without a crack between any of its valves. Mine didn't leak into the ports so I didn't fuss over them.

Id just pull it apart and see what you have to work with Canny. Might be its in ok shape, just an old gasket. Or might be its BER.

Regards

Doug

Vortex75 · Post by **Vortex75** » Mon Feb 09, 2015 9:52 am

Thanks for all the help guys. I'm going to have a go at pulling it down as far as the heads. With only 180,000 on the clock I'm thinking the internals should be fine. I've got a manual and 4 different 10mm spanners.

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Rebuilding EA82T

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