here it is removed with leakage now visible and some freaky epoxy like blob presumably forming a seal over a hole.
I got a new radiator from here
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/311183517034 ... 1439.l2649
if you have a electric fan instead of the engine mechanically driven one then there are a few things to note:
this Radiator has a thicker fin/core depth so IF you have one of these fans
there will be tears
as that fan is fine for the original radiator as it fits such that the fan and shroud actually locates below ( inserts further towards the core) than the fan mounting points on the radiator flange/frame. On the new radiator the shroud and the fan will score against the core.
this shows the rebate that exists with the original radiator that WIC's thermo fan lowered its "face" into.
this new aluminum radiator does not have such a large rebate difference is probably the original 10mm moving to only 2mm:
so you will need to get one of these
off another MY
OR get a davies craig 12" fan and fit it to the radiator after fitting the A/C fan and BEFORE inserting the new radiator. The DC fans attach with bolts actually pushed through the core - and you can't do that with the radiator in place. The DC catalog gives the 10" normal as the proper replacement - this is not necessarily true as the 10" is actually thicker than the 12" and I think will foul on the pulleys - , and even the thin 10" is only 1mm thinner than the 12", and also the "factory" thermo fans are 12" so moving down to a 10" may not be the best thing either.
this shows the difference in depth between the "factory" fan wic (MY Touring Wagon) had on the left , and the "Factory" fan in BOTH the Brumby and in the parts wagon I had on the right - which was not a touring wagon but which did have A/C.
if you try to pack the old fan out like this
it will now clear the core, but will foul the engine pulleys.
So - to the steps
1) removing water hoses and disconnecting the two fan electrical connections and the thermo sensor wire was simple - however I found it useful to put some duct tape on the top Auto fluid hose so I knew which one was to go where, and I found that by cutting a zip tie before loosening the worm drive clamps and detaching the hoses , I could pull the Auto fluid hoses off the radiator and underneath the A/C compressor and pullthem up high enough that there was essentially no leaking of the fluid. This meant when I re-attached them to the new radiator I found that the auto fluid level had not changed - bonus !
So - I then simply
2) removed the old radiator with both the fans attached;
3) then fitted only the the A/C fan and shroud to the new radiator
4) Then relocated the temperature sensor from the old radiator to the new one ( simple screw in)
5) as its auto I need to fit the two pipes that were supplied in the radiator box to the inlet and outlet of the new radiator for the auto fluid. I used a permanent gasket goo from permatex just to make sure the connection was solid for the tubes, make sure you have them in the correct positions and pointing downward so the hoses can reach properly.
6) then fitted the radiator
7) then fitted the new/old electric fan - making sure I did the left top mounting point first with the original nut and bolt ( loose) then did the bottom mounting point ( captive nut ) before doing the second top bolt and nut, and then tightening all three up.
8 ) connected all 4 hoses back up and the two electrical connections for the fans
9) connected the temp sensor wire
10) put water in the radiator. ( after the thermostat has opened and the fan started and stopped - that is AFTER the temp gauge has shown 5 bars then moved back down to 3 with the thermo fan starting up - working- and then shutting off , turn off the engine, let it cool down totally , and then add more water ( do this whole sequense twice) - which will / should avoid air chambers in the block and radiator.
it now works fine.
for those with the digi dash here is the order of action at start up and idle
1) temp gets to 4 bars
2) thermostat opens and temp goes to three bars with the cold radiator water making its way into the block
3) temp rises to 5 bars and stays there for a minute or so before the thermo switch kicks in and starts the fan and takes it back down to three bars, and then turns off.
4) repeats to 1 above.
1) so far the A/C fan only comes on with the A/C on, but if you turn it on at 4 bars the temp soon drops to 3 bars before it starts climbing again. - I don't know it it ever hits 4 bars or not, or even if it gets to 5 for the other fan to start up.
Not so simple as just dropping it in where the old one went. Seems they have a very loose assembly jig when they weld the brackets on where the mounting holes go, or very open tolerances on where the holes should be. The bottom locating pin holes are in the right place roughly, just spaced way too far away from the rad so I end up with the situation in pic below. Originally I couldn't even get the top of the rad under the lip in the bodywork inside the engine bay, had to grind 5mm off the top for it to fit under while squashing the rubbers down below. 
