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Hey Guys,
I'm new to your forum and would appreciate some advice on my 1990 brumby agquip 1800.
I got it locally off an old farmer and was going to use it as a farm ute myself but I think the old girl deserves a new lease on life after 455,000 K's and still going.
I'm no mechanic but reasonably confident I could get the job done.
The first thing I noticed was a tick in the engine I know nothing about the EA81 and need a service manual can anyone point me in the right direction to obtain one.

Any help appreciated.

Welcome to the forum 1990 subaru
You have come to the right place if you can't find the manual
Just ask on the forum for anything technical someone will help

Jan

Hi and Welcome to AUSubaru

Here's a link to a copy of the EA81 WSM...
showpost.php?p=121803&postcount=2

Thanks for you warm welcomes the copy of the manual is just what I'm looking for I do have another question there seems to be a ticking coming from behind the back wall behind the passengers seat I assume it is a fuel pump I was wondering if it should be so audible.

No worries, that's what we're here for

By the sounds of it boom boom (sorry said in my worse basil brush voice), you have found the noise is coming from the fuel pump. The Brumby does run a facet pump that does cycle with a clicking sounds but it shouldn't be too loud. 2 reasons this could be happening, firstly the pump maybe on it's way out and secondly and most likely, your fuel is bypassing and is returning to the tank. I'd change both filters (one up front and one near the pump) and also make sure all the hoses make the diagrams in the WSM.

Thanks RSR sound pretty straight forward what about CV s the old girls got a a fair clunk coming from the front end when I turn right sound like the LH CV I'm thinking Repco will have the whole shaft but how is the best way to approach the job I think I'll replace both sides would I be right in assuming that they are the same length both sides.
Any advice greatly appreciated.

CV shafts are same size, one size fits all CSA110 is the repco part number from memory. Got mixed feelings about er quality in the past but a 5 year /100,000km was handy. My last pair from them have been better. Often replacement aftermarket fuel pumps screwed directly to the frame at the back reverberate right thru ya I fixed mine by turning up the stereo, then went pumpless LPG - 90 psi fuel delivery right from the tank

Normally but not in all cases, when you turn hard right, it's normally the RH outer joint, and vise versa. Normally when coasting just slightly off or slightly on the accelerator, it's generally the inners. But if you're unsure, it's usually good to change both fronts at the same time, this way you know how many kms each one has done. I'd also recommend not using the tripod inner joint type, if you're unsure just ask at the shop. The inner joint should have 6 balls in the race and not 3 bearing in a tripod design.

Personally, I'm a big fan of having my Subaru shafts reconditioned using oversized balls (plus they do some work to the cup and race), as these seem to get more milage than the cheap (and sometimes nasty) chinese ones. Not saying all are like this but just be careful when buying.

Thanks guys it goes to show you can't beat experience all this info is gold and you guys are champions.

Welcome to the forum

Engine ticking is just noisy rockers/tappets, pretty normal for these, but you should check the valve clearances anyway. And if you're getting 2 new drive shafts, stay away from Protex brand. Had a real nasty experience with them recently.

Welcome aboard!

G'day & welcome

RSR 555 wrote: Personally, I'm a big fan of having my Subaru shafts reconditioned using oversized balls (plus they do some work to the cup and race), as these seem to get more milage than the cheap (and sometimes nasty) chinese ones.

Where do you get this done? Approx cost?

NachaLuva wrote:Where do you get this done? Approx cost?

I get mine done through Allan's CV Joint in Osborne Park, WA but I'm sure you'd have a place closer to home that does the same kind of work. Costs are around $170-$220 per shaft. I've also found these guys use the softest rubberised CV boots around, which helps keep them from cracking too early, like they do when there are cheap ones, which appear to have a higher amount of plastic in the rubber makeup.

Welcome to the forum mate!

Got some pics to jazz up this thread? We all LOVE pics around here!

Cheers

Bennie

Replaced the fuel pump and filters and both drive shafts she,s a little ripper I can see how people love these little cars thanks for all the tips guys.

Glad to hear she's up and going. They truly an awesome little fun car. When you want to give her a little more get up and go, have a look at a weber conversion kit, that and good tune really bring them to life