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Gday people I've got a 1990 liberty gx awd with a damaged auto & I have just bought another 92 liberty gx with a 1996 wrx conversion , the motor doesn't go suspected head gasket failure.
What I'd like to do is put the wrx 5spd in my sedan as that has rego !
And at a later date rebuild the ej20 turbo but for now I'd like to keep the ej22
Question is,
I'm not sure what clutch to use. will the wrx clutch work on ej22? If its still good.
Then comes the tailshaft. Donor car was a wagon, & I presume the tailshaft will be shorter in my sedan as its an auto? will the one from my auto do the job ?
Or do I need to find one from a manual sedan?
Then comes the diff. I'm not sure what diff ratio my auto or the new wagon is , so I dunno if the donor lib has got the wrx diff or just a gx diff :/
Then there's the ecu. Will a the turbo computer run a NA ej22? I presume it wont.
So do I just need to find a computer from a manual liberty from the same era as my sedan?
Clutch ? Tailshaft ? Diff ? & Ecu ?
So any help on the questions above would be awesome and greatly appreciated

To answer your questions above:
Turbo Gearbox behind EJ22 - You use the turbo clutch. The gearbox will be hydraulic and EJ22 gearbox will be pull clutch.
Tailshaft - different length between automatic/manuals (I think the spline is the same)
Diff - You need to check, Gen1 normally has 4.11 in automatics and 3.9 in manuals you will need to know the ratio for the turbo gearbox - more likely 4.11 (could be 4.44/3.9/3.7 (or 3.9 gearbox with 3.545 diff!?)? You will need to find out yourself from what you have).
ECU - you will need to change the loom and ECU to suit the engine and ECU for manual transmission.
Cheers
AP

Thanks mate I'm still abit unsure on the loom side of things .
Do I need a new engine loom & ecu to suit ej22 in manual or will the auto loom do the job & a manual ecu . Sorry for all the questions.
So I need to figure out or buy
what ratio the wrx box is.
Manual loom & ecu
A tailshaft from a manual sedan.
Thanks for your help mate

I'm having a guess here, someone will need to clarify, I was under the impression that when you changed from an auto to man, you just bypassed the start switch controllers on the shifter. The change the polarity on the auto/man wire on the ECU. Whilst still using the auto loom?
Well you can do that in a L series EFI/Turbo.

Any responces and clarifications welcome

Ok I answered my own question.
Going by the CPU pin out, you just need to cut the MT/AT wire, then connect the nuetral switch wire to the man gearbox, or just ground it, to bypass this function.

Then you should be able to use the Auto ECU and Loom.

Awesome thanks heaps !!! I've heard of piggybacking if that's what you call it ? This way it will reduce costs and I can save for the ej20t rebuild

edakreklaw wrote:Awesome thanks heaps !!! I've heard of piggybacking if that's what you call it ? This way it will reduce costs and I can save for the ej20t rebuild

Piggybacking is to use an ECU for performance gains it wasn't designed to manage. Piggybacks trick the ECU to give the required pulse rate/duration etc at the right time so the engine isn't running lean. It's not ideal by any means but it can be effective if not pushed too far.

Cheers

Bennie

Ok thank bennie , I've got the motor & box out of the wagon for the 5spd conversion & from what I can tell its not a wrx gearbox but is a early lib/legacy 93 ? with a gearbox code of 44-TY752VB2DA correct me if I'm wrong . So that means older gearbox more ks but anyway , from the info I can find on the net this box has a 4.111 ratio so if my gen1 auto does indeed have the 4.111 I won't have to change diffs which will be a bonus (mine looks alot cleaner) Cheers

Now to figure if it is indeed a wrx 95/96 engine ? Simple ways of telling the difference between rs lib block & heads to 95/96 wrx block & heads ? Any help would be awesome thanks

RS Liberty engine block will have markings on the block near the bellhousing just where the nose of the starter motor would come through. The heads will have lines on the top and bottom of the rocker cover and also have 2 bolt holes to hold the coil packs.

WRX Impreza engine block will not have this marking on the block. The heads will have lines on the top but not the bottom of the rocker cover and it will only have 1 bolt hole to hold the coil packs.

If you have pics, I'll let you know what you have.

Ok thanks for your help .

So I have the rs liberty motor. Not what i was told but i didnt pay much for the wagon & I'm considering using some of the parts from the lib wagon for the l series efi I have .
The thread name is wrong but I'm still going to put this rs box behind my gen1 auto liberty.
So if I'm correct ill be able to use my diff that's in the liberty as their both the 4.111 ratio .
Thanks again

Someone will know more, but if the gearbox is a factory RS unit then I think it will be 4.11 ratio but the drop gearing isn't 1:1 and thus a rear diff ratio of 3:5something to 1 is required.

Like I said though, someone will know more.

If the gearbox is liberty dual range it will be either 3.9 or 3.7 ratio.

Cheers

Bennie

Well its not a dual range box , the info I found on the net with the ty - number off the sticker on the box indicates its from a rs - gt with a 4.111 ratio, but I might be wrong . I Just thought you just matched rear diff ratio to gearbox ratio.?
I'm still learning so any help is appreciated !!!
I have the original diff still in the gx liberty wagon that the Turbo motor & box came out of , so ill use that if need be but i was just hoping to use my auto diff outta the gen 1 sedan ( saves changing them ) & mine is a whole lot cleaner looking.
Thanks

Aussie RS is 3.454 ratio an the import RS has 4.11