EA81 Oil Pump Removal

David D · Post by **David D** » Sat Aug 25, 2012 10:16 pm

Hey everyone

I've just bought an oil pump seal kit (thanks FROG) and I'm hoping to fit it sometime soon. I've got a standard '87 Brumby with a standard EA81. After what I've read, I'm already worried about cracking the pump removing it but I've also got a couple of queries about what I read in the Gregory's manual.
It says to remove the alternator and the crankshaft pulley. Is it really necessary to do this? If so, is there anything tricky about removing the pulley? Also, it mentions putting sealant on the pulley when re-installing to prevent leaks. Any ideas what kind of sealant?

Thanks

David D

revmax · Post by **revmax** » Sat Aug 25, 2012 10:44 pm

Leave alternator and pulley in place, It can be too darn hard to undo the crank nut.

Drain radaitor
remove radaitor
remove sump bash plate
undo the 4 x M6 bolts holding the pump in place, I usualy do the bottom two screws from underneath and the top two from over the top. (TOOLS, I used a small 1/4 drive socket set with extensions)
Now the tricky pit
with a piece of broom handle or hammer handle from the bottom put the handle between the regulator spring housing (the sticky out bit that points to the drivers side) and the block.
Now gently pryse the pump away from the block, It will just pop off and oil will dribble down all over your face if you are slow to get out of the road.

fiting it can be tricky too.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sat Aug 25, 2012 11:19 pm

David D wrote:After what I've read, I'm already worried about cracking the pump removing it but I've also got a couple of queries about what I read in the Gregory's manual.
It says to remove the alternator and the crankshaft pulley. Is it really necessary to do this? If so, is there anything tricky about removing the pulley?

I've removed the same oil pump twice now without an issue. The first time I removed it I didn't know they were vulnerable to cracking.

I do remove the crank pulley - you'll need a 22mm socket and a long breaker bar for this job. In 5th gear with the hang break on go for it, or use the starter trick, personally I've never had to resort to this.

Remove the radiator as Revmax has said - saves damaging the radiator.

I've removed all the bolts from above and got the oil pump moving with some gentle encouragement. I've found you just need to "crack" the seal on the block to get it moving, once this is done it should come out easily.

The install is pretty easy, the trick is to line up the oil pump shaft with the groove in the end of the cam shaft.

Make sure you pull it all apart and replace all the seals in there. I've pulled this oil pump twice as the 1st time I treated it the same as you would the EA82's oil pump - one seal. There's two in the EA81's oil pump as it's a "sandwich" type if you like.

Also make sure you lubricate all the moving parts before you put it back together - this will minimise wear as it primes itself, the oil filter and the engine.

I'd be keen to see one of these cracked, I'm curious as to how/where they crack.

Cheers

Bennie

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun Aug 26, 2012 7:43 am

crack across an ear, one corner of the flat with a mounting hole in it. Curious as to where sealant is asked for on crank puley ? needs some oil on its seal running surface. I use sealannt just undernaeth the washer of the crank puley bolt head.

search.....

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sun Aug 26, 2012 8:48 am

steptoe wrote:I use sealannt just undernaeth the washer of the crank puley bolt head.

I've been told a bit of moly grease on the threat and mating surface - this allows correct torquing of the bolt and the moly grease doesn't dry out completely, so it apparently aides removal come the time to do it. You can/should (according to my mate) do this on head bolts as well.

Cheers

Bennie

Cliff R · Post by **Cliff R** » Sun Aug 26, 2012 10:00 am

I think I have a cracked one somewhere, if I can find it I will post a picture

David D · Post by **David D** » Sun Aug 26, 2012 10:49 pm

Thanks for the tips

Never thought about removing the radiator. Makes it a bit of a pain as I was hoping to just add this job to a regular oil change but it beats damaging the radiator I guess.

I'll let you know how I get on... when I get round to it

David D

revmax · Post by **revmax** » Mon Aug 27, 2012 6:15 am

done one yesterday.
oil change
coolant change
pump seal kit
Had dinner
cleaned up

took about 1.5hrs

BTW it takes about 2 minuets to take the radaitor out.

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Mon Aug 27, 2012 6:05 pm

revmax wrote:done one yesterday.
oil change
coolant change
pump seal kit
Had dinner
cleaned up

took about 1.5hrs

BTW it takes about 2 minuets to take the radaitor out.

Yep 2 minutes...if the hose clamps aren't seized shut or the hoses welded on with crusty coolant

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Mon Aug 27, 2012 10:47 pm

revmax wrote:took about 1.5hrs

When you're:

- good with a spanner or two
- familiar with the job at hand
- prepared with all the bits and pieces you need.

Cheers

Bennie

David D · Post by **David D** » Wed Aug 29, 2012 11:01 am

I did it yesterday. I managed to get away with only removing the fan belt. I got to the bolts with a small 1/4 drive socket set. I put a piece of card in front of the radiator to protect it which gave me a nice shock when I forgot to remove it before I ran the engine after

. The pump felt like it wasn't gonna budge at first but I eventually hit the filter just hard enough to break the seal. The 2 screws holding the halves of the pump together were really hard to remove which I didn't expect and it was a bit tricky getting it lined up to refit.
Hopefully this will help keep a bit more oil inside the old engine. Can't believe how bad the old O rings were - they were so flat and like plastic. It did take me a bit longer than 1.5 hrs but I work pretty slow as I'm not a real confident mechanic. It felt like I spent most of the time scraping bits of old gasket from each surface!

Thanks for all the tips

David

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Wed Aug 29, 2012 7:41 pm

David D wrote:Hopefully this will help keep a bit more oil inside the old engine. Can't believe how bad the old O rings were - they were so flat and like plastic.

Let us know how you go. Those O rings would most likely still be factory units - a lot of revs/oil/kms in that time!

Cheers

Bennie

revmax · Post by **revmax** » Wed Aug 29, 2012 9:07 pm

Great stuff Dave. Next time ya do one it will be much quicker.

revmax · Post by **revmax** » Mon Oct 29, 2012 6:14 pm

Look what can happen when some bone head uses sealant to seal the oil pump.
note housing has been drilled and taped for puller bolt, hence the alloy swarf, but take note of the broken housing.

Had to drill and tap a M6 hole and go buy a slide hammer $80 at Gasweld.
Took a bout 8 seconds to gently "pull" it out.
Nothing like the write tools for the job.
Luckly I dont do an oil pump without having another one ready to fit.

fitted an new front crank seal and pressure cleaned the front of the motor while it was easy to get at.

Macca · Post by **Macca** » Mon Nov 26, 2012 2:37 pm

Have 84 brumby with oil pump leaking 202.000 Km.

Advise Please:-

1/ Do I need apuller to get crankshaft pulley off. (If nesessary)???

2/ Where can I get a kit

3/ I see (from your posts) cracked housing possible. As I have tightened mine up a few times I wouldn't be surprised if it is cracked. Priced New oil pump from SUBARU $330.00 so optain open if all else fails.

Appreciate your advise.

Dave Macca

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Mon Nov 26, 2012 4:23 pm

For crank pulley bolt just put the correct sized socket and breaker bar on it, extension tube down to ground or I tied it to the tow hook so no chance of it flying around. Disconnect the lead from coil to dizzy and ground it then just blip the starter, the shock should loosen it.

Haymaker · Post by **Haymaker** » Mon Nov 26, 2012 9:41 pm

Never used to pull the radiator on these. Working from below (hoist made it hell easy) remove the bolts using 1/4 drive and either pull down on the filter or give it a short sharp whack just hard enough to break the seal. Could then remove with short twists left to right.

Rodeo4jake · Post by **Rodeo4jake** » Mon Dec 02, 2013 9:21 am

G'day guys

Well I tried to do this on the weekend with disastrous results. Could not get the pump to move in the block at all. After trying for a long time to get it to spin I let frustration get the better of me & pried at it with a bar & crack. Now it is basically at the same point as Revmax above. I want to take the pulley off to give me more room to work but after trying to get it undone for a couple hours Saturday arvo I gave up.
I'm gonna order a new pump this week & start fresh next week & see how I go. So much for just fixing the oil leak.

Cheers Jake

Rodeo4jake · Post by **Rodeo4jake** » Mon Dec 02, 2013 1:44 pm

So far not having any luck chasing a new oil pump. Anyone know if you can still get an aftermarket one. I have one in my parts car, but who knows if it will come off in one piece. That car is ten years older than the Brumby & looks as though it has never been pulled off either.

Cheers Jake

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Mon Dec 02, 2013 3:50 pm

you gotta be careful fitting them back in again too ! Mine came with some bits including the pump they broke an ear off trying to tighten it up. Another of mine was hard to get it back in , and hope it never has to come out