EA81 Medium Rebuild

Brumby Kid · Post by **Brumby Kid** » Fri Dec 23, 2011 2:48 pm

An EJ is totally out of the question ok, so no one is aloud to even utter the word in this thread, ok? Thanks.

Ok so im planning a medium rebuild / 300 000k freshen up, of my EA81, and im trying to work out what to do. I'm not really keen on the whole Franken Motor idea.

So apart from the externals, (coil, Carby etc) I was going to do the following...
Gaskets, Welch Plugs, Spark Plugs, Belts.
I'm going to buy a o ring set.
If someone could tell me what seals i need i would do them as well.

Ok, so my question is... What else should i do, And what specifications and brand should i use.

Cheers Cam

Brumby Kid · Post by **Brumby Kid** » Fri Dec 23, 2011 2:49 pm

I was told that a gt40 coil was best, then i heard a lot of negativity about it.
What is better, GT40 or msd blaster?

Cheers Cam

sven '2' · Post by **sven '2'** » Fri Dec 23, 2011 4:41 pm

Engine oil.

I cannot remember the oil Steve (Rising Sun) used to use, but I (and others) swore it made slight difference (about the same as a MB coil). Was a Shell product, not esp fancy, but worth it.

phantomD · Post by **phantomD** » Fri Dec 23, 2011 4:52 pm

I'd tend to agree about engine oil and 81s...I've used several over the last few years and I've had some that make the thing go like a rocket and others that are just too heavy and make the whole thing more lethargic than it needs to be.

Brumby Kid · Post by **Brumby Kid** » Fri Dec 23, 2011 5:29 pm

Ah, Yeah i bought some a while back it's this one.
Valvoline XLD Classic (for older engines) 20W50
And the coolant is
Tectaloy 100 (the best there is) Its 560g/Litre of stuff

spike · Post by **spike** » Fri Dec 23, 2011 5:31 pm

Brumby Kid wrote: Ok so im planning a medium rebuild / 300 000k freshen up, of my EA81, and im trying to work out what to do. I'm not really keen on the whole Franken Motor idea.

franken motors are based on EJ anyway.
id also get the radiator rodded and flushed. Rebuild/replace oil and water pump.

if you dont want to really rip it down id leave it at that, but theres a lot more you can do

spike · Post by **spike** » Fri Dec 23, 2011 5:34 pm

Brumby Kid wrote: And the coolant is
Tectaloy 100 (the best there is) Its 560g/Litre of stuff

i know lots of mechanics who really disagree, not sure on reasoning but they dont use it in theyre own cars

Brumby Kid · Post by **Brumby Kid** » Fri Dec 23, 2011 6:27 pm

^^^^Yeah, the best in their range i should have said.
To Me Franken motor = any motor, mixn matching from others.

Tempt me guys!!!, what could i do, say with $1000, and free labour.
The heads will be off, don't know about splitting the block... So yeah they are my guidelines.
Ohh and the $1k also includes other mechanicle stuff like brakes. (I think)

Cheers Cam

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Fri Dec 23, 2011 9:34 pm

You know, if you not driving yet and not needed as your daily, not a bad idea to do some things in a preventative manner like remove intake manifold bolts just to make sure they do come out and not seized and snap - as when you really do need to pull manifold and heads - they will be seized and or snap!

So, now you got inlet manifold off, might as well pull the engine to check engine and gearbox mounts, pull the heads, send 'em off for a service and head shave - to up the compression a tad, new gaskets so you know they been done and you may be able to extract another 300,000km out of it

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Sat Dec 24, 2011 12:02 am

Yeah go for the headgaskets for sure. I wouldn't split the block if you were planning to do it yourself...if you do you'd have to replace everything; I re-used some parts form mine and look what happened

If you do the heads yourself make sure your torque wrench is calibrated and tightening properly; mine wasn't so didn't tighten to what it said it was.
Pull the engine out; it will be good practice and you'll learn alot especially on how the clutch goes together. Also will be easier to do your maintenance if it's on an engine stand.

Brumby Kid · Post by **Brumby Kid** » Sat Dec 24, 2011 6:52 am

Yeah, the engine is coming out,
Not a bad idea steptoe, i will do that.
I hear what you are saying sam, will do.

Cheers Cam

ScubyRoo · Post by **ScubyRoo** » Sat Dec 24, 2011 8:23 am

IMO:

Stage 1
- get heads shaved and pressure tested, valves checked
- new head gaskets and head bolts
- new water pump
- flush/reservice/renew to good spec radiator
- renew all hoses - coolant and vaccum
- new belts

Stage 2
- Leads
- Dizzy
- Irridium plugs
- Carby service

After that it's personal preference I reckon.

Didn't you say elsewhere that this engine had blown head gaskets? If that's the case I'd be renewing every aspect of the cooling system! Consider tapping a bleeder screw into the highest part of the cooling system as it'll make it easier to bleed the air out once all is done!

Consider putting in an aftermarket temp gauge too like El_Freddo, steptoe and others have done, looks like it's helped keep their motors healthy.

When I rebuilt my EJ I bought an engine rebuild kit that included all the seals, covers and gaskets I needed for a full strip down, I think it cost me about $150 and I had left over as I didn't split the block.

I had the heads pressure tested, shaved and valves checked for $350. My torque wrench was brand new so I did the reattaching myself, although I reckon it would have cost about $100 (max) more to have had the engine specialist do it.

New head bolts and gasket kit was about $250 and sourced through the engine specialist.

Including buying a lot of tools I think I did my rebuild (pretty much everything I listed above) for about $2500. Now I have all the tools I need I reckon I could do it for around $1200.

Don't skimp on the little things or penny pinch - do it once and do it right! If you have to save another $500 to get that new carbie injector/better brake pads/new rotors/irridum plugs then do it - you'll be much happier and more confident in your work in the end!

Good luck