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hey guys,

gotta remove the fuel rails on my sisters ej22 to get a flow test and clean.

is there any special way to do it? will fuel piss everywhere if i simply unbolt them and pull them out?

this is the last in a long line of things ive done to get the heap of shit running properly again.

alex

Fuel will piss out everywhere unless you remove the fuel supply line first. This will stop lots of fuel running down the hole and into the cylinder and causing issues when you go to start it again. Can you retrieve any codes out of the ECU?

okay thanks paul. The ecu is showing nothing.

So far ive:
-cleaned the afm
-swapped those two magnetic sensors at the front of the motor (camshaft and something else?)
-swapped plugs, coil and made sure the leads are working correctly
-new intank fuel filter, pump and main fuel filter
-cleaned the main engine harness plugs
-made sure there are no vacuum issues.

it idles like shit, hunting constantly.

starts like shit, gotta open the accelerator up fully to get her to kick over, then it runs fine until it warms up and misses, running inbetween 3 and 4 cylinders.

it starts fine once its been running for a while and you leave it for no more than 5 hours but still runs like shit.

if this injector service does nothing, last on my list is the ignition relay which is loated behind the frickkin dash.

alex

I'm thinking the next thing I would do (before removing injectors) would be to clean out the IAC valve.. it sounds like this is getting sticky. Remove the whole unit (leave the solinoid on top in place, as this will mess up your idle speed) and give it a good clean out with carby clean. Replace with a small smear of non-drying goo.

The other thing I've learnt is never clean AFMs.. they never like it Just try a good known one as a test.

okay i'll check them out.

im having afew issues removing two bits from the motor theyre held on my phillips head screws which are just stripping instead of loosening..

im assuming the iac valve is the black box shaped one to the left of the throttle body and the air bypass controller is that white/beige box just below the iac?

The IAC valve has the air bypass hose going to it (also 2 small water hoses off the back of the throttle body and crossover pipe under the inlet manifold). The little light tan/beige/greyie coloured thing on top of it is the controller solinoid (can't remember the exact term for it) that controls the valve into the correct position, so idle is mantained correctly, it also helps reduce air during first start up (like a choke) as the ECU adds extra fuel.

If this valve is sticky, then you might be getting too much air and making it hard to start.

This is just an idea

okay i'll definately check that first, thanks Paul!

When removing injectors, first unplug the fuel pump relay, and then start the car and let it run till it dies, this means there is no pressure left in the system.

The fuel pump relay usually has a green plug, that is near the ignition relay. It really isnt that hard to get to

Gannon wrote:When removing injectors, first unplug the fuel pump relay, and then start the car and let it run till it dies, this means there is no pressure left in the system.

The fuel pump relay usually has a green plug, that is near the ignition relay. It really isnt that hard to get to

okay will do. thanks mate.

i have to inspect the ignition relay properly. It seemed like an absolute pain to get to

checked the iac valve, was abit tricky to get to, pulled it off, sprayed it good with carby cleaner, a fair bit of shit came out but it made no difference to the problems were having unfortunately.

the car is going into a fuel injection shop this week to have the injectors inspected/cleaned.

PAINFUL!

alex