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Hi guys,

I'll just go straight to the point, Where is the BOV? I'd like to add a little Wusshhhh lol:p

Another idea, would adding a front mount benefit the engine?

I'm guessing i need to remove that black pipe and replace it with a pipe from the turbo to the intercooler and from the inter cooler to the intake?

Thx

The EA82T doesnt have a blow off valve, they just had a dash pot to prevent the throttle from slamming shut, it simply held it slightly open for about a second.

Can you fit a WRX air to air intercooler behind the intake manifold and make use of the bonnet scoop? Failing that, grab a water to air intercooler from an RS Liberty and use it.

A front mount is a lot of work an overkill for the amount of air the EA82T uses

Not enough room to fit much between the throttle body and bonnet catch at all. Also looks like to fit a FMIC you need both pipes to rip around the LHS of the engine. Water injection ???

Water/Methanol is probably the easiest system to use - well simplist to apply anyway .
I think the American mob Snow Performance do one based on manifold pressure that ramps up in a linear way from whatever pressure you set it to start from .
On of the Skyline fellas in QLD had one which he really liked and it allowed him to use lower octane fuel and still make good power in an R33 Skyline .

The advantage of water and methanol is that you are adding a fuel and a coolant which helps power wise because water/water vapour doesn't burn .

I think you'll find that theres not a lot of future in screwing the boost up much on a std turbo'd EA82T . Basically everything about these engines is sized/intended to have the boost come on fairly early , 2100 ish , and the power falls away from maybe 4500 and up . It doesn't mean they won't rev over 4500 odd but the torque drops off .
Now , you can say bugger that and try to push the engines state of tune upwards but the things that ultimately limit you will be the manifolds sizes and heads porting and chamber designs .
You can fit larger turbos but be carefull because you can very easily get a situation where the turbo is laggy down low and the engine won't breathe well at higher revs . Means a narrow power range in the middle starting later .
Looking back now possibly the best OE turbo we never got in Australia was the EA82 type unit with the slightly larger turbine housing R15 or 15R .
The next best was possibly the basic early spec EJ20 , or was it 22 one , that the Americans got . Basically same turbine with a slightly larger trim version of the same diameter compressor wheel and in later design EJ housings .
I'm convinced now that what gave the Rally spec RX engines the grunt was the long duration (280-300 degree duration) camshafts which would be a bit wild and wooly on the street .
In a way like the old BMC A Series Mini heads big cams was the only way to make the how shall we say , agricultural , heads breathe lots of air and exhaust .
I spoke to people who built and rally'd RX Turbos and the usual fit rally spec cams boost the CR , and boost , didn't work so well because they wanted to detonate . For whatever reasons the best legal non intercooled ones had to live with the low CR/big cams/more boost and of course revs .
It was manageable with closer ratio gearboxes and they tended to run the courses with the std spec turbo "low range" . This effectively changed the final drive ratio from 3.7 to 4.4 which was about the norm for turbo rally cars of the day .

If it were me again I'd have that engine out and change every hose and seal possible because they are hard to impossible to get at particulary with all that , shudders , AC gear in place .
Many of them on mine are a bit easier but thats because we went to a lot of effort to make things as far as possible easier to work on , the factory didn't try too hard in too many places .

Anyway my vote to WMI because its the easiest simplest cooling to implement even though its probably not any chreaper . Major PITA to do a front mount and water/air systems clog up the bay covering more componentry and add water and electrical complexity .
WMI adds a pump a reservoir and simple electrical and hose plumbing . Simple to remove and if it fails you wind the boost back to std and carry on regardless . In other words it can't take any other systems out with it .
The other advantage is small amounts of water vapour remove carbon deposits from valves/pistons/chambers and probably plugs to a degree .
Good systems have check valves so you don't hydro lock your engine as well .

A .

steptoe wrote:Not enough room to fit much between the throttle body and bonnet catch at all.

Bonnet catch?

yeah, I just saw that, can I blame the cold/flu/hayfe I have, the 350grams of super dooper choc chip biccies, ten year old tea bag then 3 year out of date stomach settling salts last night ???

Not much room in there for TMIC......

Here is a TMIC with the hi-rise manifold in an L series, with what looks like a normal EA82 throttle body

fmic on ea82t = lag queen


davo

D3V1L wrote:fmic on ea82t = lag queen


davo

Ok ok, Well this question was also because i'm hoping to use the same FMIC when i put the EJ20t. I know i may have to change some pipes around.
Ok so looks like i'll just wait till i get the ej20t.

What about the Bov, can i add one somewhere?

Nice find of a LHD pic too How long that take you Gannon ?

,,

You can see quite clearly how the bonnet catch gets in the way and the looms , and the wiper motor

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So is it a yes or no for the Bov? can i add one of those after market ones easily and will it work or affect the system?

Thinking of getting a exhaust pipe bent to suit, with a outlet for the bov and using silicone hose to attach it to the manifold and turbo??

You cannot have a atmospheric venting blow off valve because it will cause the engine to run rich every time it blows because you are venting metered air. It will have to be recirculated back into the pipe that runs between the air flow meter and the turbo.

which is why the authorities say blow off valvews need to be plumb-back to comply with emissions. At this point you have limited ducting to fit it between the turbo and throttle body. Looks a tricky unit to replace that plastic duct. Silicone joiner/reducer/and bends may be best way