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Hi guys,

Some of you know that i'm gonna build my DCCD, L low range, AWD lib box soon. The main Gearbox will be out of a Gen1 Series 1 AWD liberty, 2S-TY752XHLAA.

My first question is what seals, parts should i buy new?
I would prefer to replace the two output shaft seals and the main input seal and also the rear AWD output seal.

What else???
Its my first time so this goes out to all you guys who have taken the box apart and would know what is best to replace.

If you have part numbers it would be great:p
Since it will be apart i rather replace it:)

you need a gearbox rebuild kit from memory they are between 500 -600 dollars

TOONGA

Lol, now way i'm paying that!!!!, just want to replace minor stuff about 100-150 maybe 200 worth of parts MAX!!!

Would a kit include synchros'?

The kit includes bearings and seals and is 900 for a wrx box. From a mob called driveco

But if u don't want that. I would say buy the gasket on the back section but there is 2 think there genuine only and all the seals

Thx,

P.s, your undertray 22B cover is at pauls:p Lol 22B....

90brumby wrote:But if u don't want that. I would say buy the gasket on the back section but there is 2 think there genuine only and all the seals

You don't need the gaskets - just use the same torque gasket sealer on those joints as you would in the front half cases. I've done this with two gearboxes and all going well so far - one now has ~50k km on it

I too am looking into new bearings and synchros, just waiting on someone's holidays to end

Cheers

Bennie

Definitely replace:

- side seals (where the stubs come out from the front diff) - DO NOT REMOVE their holder (side bearing cup preloader), do not even touch it and if you're going to pull or wack (I just use a big socket) the seal out then make sure it doesn't move as it affects the bearing preload on the front diff.
- input shaft seal
- output shaft seal

I removed the above, took them to a bearings shop who measured them up. For the seals I think I paid ~$50.

Also worth replacing the main bearings: drive pinion bearing (sits right behind the pinion gear), input shaft bearing (check to see if you need to change the size, when I built the gen 1 test fit box the L series bearing was a perfect fit, but for the gen 2 it needed a new size), and the mainshaft bearing that sits between the low/high range gearset and 1st gear on the main shaft.

All the bearings will have numbers on them which will tell a bearing supplier what bearing to get, down to the amount of rollers or balls. The drive pinion bearing is an automotive specialist bearing which most stores won't have in stock but should be able to source for you within a few days - ask RSR where he gets his bearings from.

If you need to change the input shaft bearing to a larger one, take the original L-series one AND the liberty one with you to the bearings place - they'll measure the inner diameter of the L-series and outer dia of the lib - off memory the thickness was the same.

As bennie said the gasket goop stuff is fine, I wouldn't bother will genuine fabric gaskets.

I hope you have better luck than me - I'm on version 3

Have fun!

Owen.

ScubyRoo wrote:- side seals (where the stubs come out from the front diff) - DO NOT REMOVE their holder (side bearing cup preloader), do not even touch it and if you're going to pull or wack (I just use a big socket) the seal out then make sure it doesn't move as it affects the bearing preload on the front diff.

Make sure you put the correct seal on the correct side - these seals are directional, stuff that up and they're guaranteed to leak!

Cheers

Bennie

guyph_01 wrote:My first question is what seals, parts should i buy new?
I would prefer to replace the two output shaft seals and the main input seal and also the rear AWD output seal.

Replace all if you can afford but seriously they are much cheaper to replace whilst apart.

guyph_01 wrote:What else???
Its my first time so this goes out to all you guys who have taken the box apart and would know what is best to replace.

This depends on what else is wrong with the box.. and also what ever you can afford. If you had money to burn then I'd go the full hog and replace all seal, bearings, syncros and any worn gears but this could set you back a few grand.

guyph_01 wrote:Lol, now way i'm paying that!!!!, just want to replace minor stuff about 100-150 maybe 200 worth of parts MAX!!!

Wait to you see my bill !!

H-top wrote:Would a kit include synchros'?

Not generally but can be supplied on request but they (the bearing companies) would just buy them from Subaru, so I you have a good contact ( Andy aka Frog ) inside Subaru then I'd buy them direct.

90brumby wrote:The kit includes bearings and seals and is 900 for a wrx box. From a mob called driveco

But if u don't want that. I would say buy the gasket on the back section but there is 2 think there genuine only and all the seals

Geez.. I've seen a box like that lying around my workshop for a couple of years now...

I too would also recomend you purchase the 2 rear casing gaskets, as these boxes rely on clearences and even though those gaskets are thin, they are thicker than silicone... Sorry Bennie and Owen

But Bennie and Owen do have some other good advise in their posts.. especially for anyone building these boxes.

guyph_01 wrote:P.s, your undertray 22B cover is at pauls:p Lol 22B....

He wished it was for a 22B

RSR 555 wrote: Wait to you see my bill !!

Arwwwww, :( Snif