Turbo HELP!

lo45hw · Post by **lo45hw** » Thu Apr 07, 2011 1:15 pm

Hi guys

I just bought a 2007 Subaru Impreza WRX MY08 a few weeks ago and it has a couple of mods, such as, full exhaust w/ dump pipe, cold air intake, ECU, and its been tuned to just under 15psi.

Im a bit new to the turbo world but I have had a few Subarus before, but just wondering if its best to buy a turbo timer and get it installed just to play if safe with the turbo..?

Thanks

kj0 · Post by **kj0** » Thu Apr 07, 2011 3:12 pm

Do you drive it hard a lot? If you rarely drive it hard then on the odd occasion you do, just leave your engine on for 30 seconds. There's no point unless each time you drive you hit it hard that it will heat up as such.,

niterida · Post by **niterida** » Thu Apr 07, 2011 3:45 pm

Absolutely no point wasting your money on one.
If they were necessary then manufacturers would put them on as standard.
The latest turbos, bearings, oil and water cooling systems mean that they can take more abuse than 40 years ago.
And in an accident the timer can keep your engine running and/or fuel pump pumping which could have disastrous consequences.
The best thing you can do is just drive normally for a minute or 2 after hard driving before you park it up.

H-top · Post by **H-top** » Thu Apr 07, 2011 9:27 pm

who would drive their car Turbo Boxer sedate at any time? muhamuhamuha

yeah, not a real issue anymore. good wank factor though

discopotato03 · Post by **discopotato03** » Fri Apr 08, 2011 1:17 am

Good oil , a good synthetic oil , changed often (5000 max) and a decent new filter every time helps .
A proper group 4 synthetic oil is a fair bit more temperature tolerant than group 3 and mineral oils so less lilely to bake onto you turbine shaft at hot shut down .
And yes water cooled turbos make a big difference if they are plumbed in properly .

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Fri Apr 08, 2011 6:23 am

Yes all the above information is correct.

If you look in your engine bay, the radiator cap is not on the radiator, but on top of a small aluminium tank at the highest point of the cooling system. This is so that after the engine is turned off, the water heated by the turbo rises up to the coolant header tank, where it mixes with cooler water and travels down towards the radiator. As this happens, more cooler water from the block rises and cools the turbo. This continues until the turbo is the same temperature as the block.

discopotato03 · Post by **discopotato03** » Fri Apr 08, 2011 11:30 am

The coolant actally boils in a turbos water jacket when the engine shuts down and it stands to reason because the turbine housing and exhaust manifold run higher than 100 degrees C .
The water boiling is not an issue so long as the steam bubbles have an escape path higher than the turbos water jacket .
If they don't they displace water in the turbos jacket and where there isn't water there is no cooling taking place .
In a properly designed system the hot water and bubbles rise out of the turbochargers jackets and is replaced from cooler water lower in the cooling system . Hot water is less dense and therefore lighter than cooler water so it tends to rise drawing cooler water from below itself .
Again in a properly functioning system you get a syphoning effect drawing water through the turbo for the two or three minutes it takes to cool the thermal mass of the manifold/turbine housing/bearing housing to the point where their conducted heat is not high enough to boil the coolant .

A .

Turbo timers are an out dated and illegal device replaced by water cooled turbos and having enough mechanical sympathy to drive sedately for a short time prior to shut down .
Top quality oils are usually expensive but cheap insurance compared to turbo and engine rebuilds .

kj0 · Post by **kj0** » Fri Apr 08, 2011 12:54 pm

I ran a turbo Timer in My gazelle (NA) for a month and got rid of it. I was tossing with the idea of letting my car cool a little more straight after driving it a lot. Was good fun putting in and then a weeks hype and sooo over it, it was just a novalty item all along.

After I've driven for an hour or more straight, When I pull my car up, I will let the engine run for about 30 seconds, thus allowing it to sit at lower revs (500) instead of tje 2000rpm it has just been sitting at. It's much better. Still NA but it is a good idea just to make sure.

preno · Post by **preno** » Fri Apr 08, 2011 1:23 pm

think i might remove mine after reading this. previous own had put it on. bloody annoying i tell ya what!

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Fri Apr 08, 2011 2:08 pm

yes... maybe an affordable T-shirt that says " i have a turbo timer" would impress the right people more successfully. TT's attract defect notices. Real purpose was to prevent the oil in the turbo from cooking after quick shut down after a bit of boosting

kj0 · Post by **kj0** » Fri Apr 08, 2011 3:10 pm

A lady I work with, her son bought a 2008 Navara Ute, It came standard with a TT and she hates it. but couldn't work out how to turn it off, but that is a work horse, If it hauls a lot then it would need it.

lo45hw · Post by **lo45hw** » Tue Apr 12, 2011 7:57 pm

Hey everyone, thanks for all the advice. I've decided not to get a tt from all the feedback you guys have given me. I don't drive I hard much so then again theres no real point just wanted more opinions.

Another question tho, would it be best to get a boost controller considering I'm running 15psi and will most likely use it for everyday..? If so does anyone know which one to get and where from?

Cheers.

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Tue Apr 12, 2011 8:19 pm

If it is already been tuned for, and is running 15psi, you really dont need a boost controller. The ECU has been tuned to tell the factory boost control solenoid to run 15psi.

If you want to run more boost, your best bet is to get the ECU retuned for more boost, its much safer that way

d_generate · Post by **d_generate** » Wed Apr 13, 2011 6:00 am

As much as I absolutely hate these things I'm thinking of putting one in the offroader as I have little sympathy with it after slogging hard through soft sand, also going to try putting a 4 blade electric radiator fan under the hood scoop as there is little room for heat to escape with the undertray going to the back of the box.

lo45hw · Post by **lo45hw** » Sat May 28, 2011 7:54 pm

Does anyone know a good BOV that will flutter with the setup that I already have, giving the fact that the cold air intake is already pretty loud, just want to add that extra note so to speak.. Something that's not too loud when cruising but something loud enough when I give it a good hit.
I've been looking for a few but not too sure which type does what.. As in the plumb back, hybrid and the atmospheric blow off valves..

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Sat May 28, 2011 8:28 pm

Best way to increase flutter is to blank off the BOV altogether, but apparently it can decrease the life of some turbos.

Best next option is to buy an adjustable plumb back and wind it up tight.

But in all honesty, $300 BOV's are a total wank because they do sweet f--k all over a perfectly working factory item.

littlewhiteute · Post by **littlewhiteute** » Sat May 28, 2011 8:44 pm

lo45hw wrote:Does anyone know a good BOV that will flutter with the setup that I already have, giving the fact that the cold air intake is already pretty loud, just want to add that extra note so to speak.. Something that's not too loud when cruising but something loud enough when I give it a good hit.
I've been looking for a few but not too sure which type does what.. As in the plumb back, hybrid and the atmospheric blow off valves..

Aside from my daily Brumby, I have a 2002 WRX Evo 5 with a Turbosmart compact plumbback, as well as a few other go fast parts.

You must run a plumb back if you have a MAF.

Otherwise the engine runs pig rich coming off boost.

lo45hw · Post by **lo45hw** » Sun May 29, 2011 3:59 pm

Ok so plumb back it is! Any good ones that you guys recommend?!

Outback bloke · Post by **Outback bloke** » Sun May 29, 2011 4:14 pm

HKS super sequential