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hi everyone

i was wondering if someone thats done a timing belt can tell me if me and my mate have done this right?

as you can see by these photos one camshaft wheel is off by a tiny bit. is this ok?

if its wrong how do i do it right

and ps: cam wheel edge is very sharp i cut my hand on it. The wheel cut down to the tendon, resulting in one internal stitch and 3 external. lol







click thumbnail for larger photo.

Thanks guys

Rob

Curious as two sets of marks?

Does your belt have the marks for crank and cams on the outside?

on the cam wheels you need to use the marks that someone has painted white and pink for you.

yeah the belt had some white stripes on it

so do i rotate the engine over so the white and orange marks line up with the marks on the timing cover? then get the belt and line up the white line on the belt to the white and orange mark on the wheel?


sorry for asking you guys this i just dont want to stuff it up


Thanks
Rob

Mr Top Hat wrote:yeah the belt had some white stripes on it

so do i rotate the engine over so the white and orange marks line up with the marks on the timing cover? then get the belt and line up the white line on the belt to the white and orange mark on the wheel?


sorry for asking you guys this i just dont want to stuff it up


Thanks
Rob

Yes that's right make sure the center pulley marks stay like they are in the last pic.

Jan

I think you'll find that the crank is 90 deg out. The mark that you want to line up is at the back of the pulley, not the front. It's on the flange with the pickups for the crank sensor. The keyway should be pointing straight down.

Point wrote:I think you'll find that the crank is 90 deg out. The mark that you want to line up is at the back of the pulley, not the front. It's on the flange with the pickups for the crank sensor. The keyway should be pointing straight down.

Yes, correct, crank mark is at 9 o'clock in your pic, turn engine 90 degrees which will turn both cams 45 degrees.

All of the marks will then be at 12 o'clock.

The new belt should have a dotted line for the crank and solid line for each cam.

Point is correct - there will be a little line embossed on the pickup plate behind the crank pulley. use it to line up the crank. The line will look just like the ones on the cam wheels.

Another trick: When you are fitting the belt have the compressed tensioner mounted loosely and slide it to the right. This gives you just enough slack to get the belt on. Last thing to do is push the tensioner all the way to the left, and nip the bolts up. Then pull the pin.

Ok got it sorted

Thank you everyone for your help

If it wasn't for you guys, i would have a destroyed engine lol


Top Hat

It doesn't really matter if its not alligned on the ej22. As valves and pistons never touch, it just won't run properly or won't start at all.
I came across two frineds Liberty's that were driven until the T-Belt snapped at high revs. all it took was a new belt and they were back on the road.
However, when the belt snaps, in most cases it will break your plastic timing covers and in one case it got tangled with the water pump pulley and destroyed it.
So its always best to replace them in due time:) but you'll never loose the engine. Same applies to the EA82 i think.
EJ20t or quad cam engine i think are a different story. the valves touch and you can easily detroy the engine.

yeah the EA82 is 'non-interfacing', i had a timing belt tensioner self destruct turning into the tree top walk in wapole! long story i got her home and put a new tensioner on she was sweet . nice to know the 22 is like that too cos thats hopefully not too far away

Wagonman

I think you mean non-interference

I've learnt something 2day,, DON'T try to do the timing when the car is in gear!!!! Was hitting my head against a brick wall and was wandering why i could not get it to turn... Did the timing 3 times before I realised!!!! F*#@^&&* Douhhhhh!!!!

Also lost some blood on the cams pulleys, Hahaha