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Lifter Tap EA82t, Updated (HoW TO)

Posted: Sun Mar 26, 2006 8:34 am
by schultzie
ok well i now have an ea82t now the omotor has got an intermitant lifter tap comeing from the drivers side of the car... what would be causeing it to be intermittant? the oil?

next question what oil should i be running in hte car?

Posted: Sun Mar 26, 2006 9:35 am
by fredsub
i'm using shell helix+ for many years. engine is quiet, no liftr tap/noc. Oil pump&seals replaced 5k ago...not that there was any noc then either.

give engine a good hi reving run, how is it then?

Posted: Sun Mar 26, 2006 9:47 am
by schultzie
some how i dont think the auto will allow that but ill give it a shot....

just had a go in our street and as soon as it came on boost the auto was slipping like crazy... i think ill be nice to it and then time for the manual to go back in....

we are going to service it today and then the car will be comin goff the road for a complete overhaul...

Posted: Sun Mar 26, 2006 1:08 pm
by smoov
if its intermittent, and on the driver's side, it will most likely be the oil pump seals. refresh them. while you're at it, if you don't know the state of the oil pump, i'd reco it/replace it also.

Posted: Sun Mar 26, 2006 2:07 pm
by schultzie
yeah and the cam box seals as well... All will get fixed.... they are a priority and then the manual gearbox

Posted: Tue Mar 28, 2006 12:19 am
by subanator
schultzie, I take it you read this post further down this topic page??
http://www.ausubaru.com/main/modules.ph ... pic&t=1556

I will be trying this method out very shortly myself. I have a very noisy tappet on the RHS too.

what did the pump seals replacement cost

Posted: Sun Apr 16, 2006 1:33 pm
by colwyn
Probabably have to get this done to a 86'rx i'm going to buy just can't afford lifter problems esp with a turbo.

How much did it you get it done for?

Posted: Sun Apr 16, 2006 3:44 pm
by twc
tried the diese fuel thing in my l sreies, yes it cleaned out some of the gunk out of the engine but unfortuneatly made the lifter rattle far worse.

Possibly chewed out what was left of the pump seals etc.

Have sinced replaced the oil pump seals and put good oil in Still have some lifter tick when cold but runs great onced warmed up.

Posted: Mon Apr 17, 2006 12:26 am
by subanator
I have just done the diesel (detergent type oil) method too.
It seems to stop the lifter rattling all the time, now comes back intermitantly.
Havent done more than approx 5Kms with it in due to other probs.
Will drop this oil soon with few more kms.

This oil shouldnt attack the seals in the pump, it actually removes the carbon from suspending in the oil (going black) and deposit build up around the engine.

Posted: Tue Apr 18, 2006 10:50 am
by schultzie
Ok have ordered all the seals and kits and all the crap

now i reon i will want to take the motor out to do this am i correct?
if so the auto will follow it out because it is going to the tip,

what do i do with the air con? if i take the motor out wont that let all the gasses out?

ill start all this later in the week, first up is fixing up the bodyshe needs some love
cheers justin

I shall also take pic's all along the way and post it all up for the tech section... al though wiring wise ii am not sure how much help it will be because it is running a wolf 3d

Posted: Tue Apr 18, 2006 2:33 pm
by BaronVonChickenPants
Just unbolt your aircon compressor from the engine and leave all the hoses attached, that way you don't lose the gas 8)

Jordan.

Posted: Tue Apr 18, 2006 4:02 pm
by AndrewT
I havn't done this particular job myself but I beleive if you remove your radiator you should gain enough access to take both timing covers off the front of the engine and enough room to do the whole job without removing the engine.

Correct me if I'm wrong tho ?

Posted: Tue Apr 18, 2006 5:03 pm
by schultzie
if that is the case ill do it this way because id rather leave the motor in because the loom is extreemly tidy and i would not like to disturb it... can any one else confirm wether this is the case ok not?

which state your in schultzie?

Posted: Tue Apr 18, 2006 5:12 pm
by colwyn
once you've done yours u can assist me with mine lol, labor these days costs so much, 1 day's work in a workshop at least $500

Posted: Tue Apr 18, 2006 6:26 pm
by fredsub
yeah, can confirm no need to pull engine out......pull radiator out.
Its easily 1 day job for a DIYer even if you've never done it b4, like me!
with the money you save replace the oil pump (rebuild kit) too.
Good opportunity to check out the water pump...you'll need a new seal then tho.
BTW replacement springs for the timing belt tensioners are cheap, $4 or so i think (from subaru dealer), incase you need them...I did.

Posted: Tue Apr 18, 2006 6:28 pm
by smoov
i can also confirm that you can remove the rad, and replace the oil pump, and seals, with motor in-situ.

Posted: Tue Apr 18, 2006 7:05 pm
by twc
I had my mechanic do my oil seal replacement etc I far as im aware he didnt take anything out to take off timing covers etc.

Mind you he had a hoist to work under, i believe everthing you need to remove is very accessable from underneath the front of the car.

Posted: Tue Apr 18, 2006 10:49 pm
by steptoe
too much engine oil can cause oil to be airated and then lifter tick, so make sure not over filled

Posted: Wed Apr 19, 2006 10:36 am
by schultzie
This is all good advise, when i have done everything ill put all the info gathered in to one big post that way people can read up on it...

There isnt to much oil, it is all leaking out of the cambox... lol

it is ok all in all, ill be attempting to do it all with the motor in the car.. also putting the manual in to it with out taking the donk out will be fun enough i would imagen,

back to work .. the car aint get get worked on with me reading the forums