Clutch problem

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TheInterceptor
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Clutch problem

Post by TheInterceptor » Sat Oct 09, 2010 6:19 pm

Gday guys,
I got a bit of a problem. The friction point in my MY 4wd wagon has changed, it now grabs when the pedal is near the top.
This happend a few days ago after a long drive mostly through hilly roads (through the royal national park if anyone knows it, constant hills for about 30 odd kms) at speed. When i got out of the hills and back to the normal roads, only then i noticed it grabbing near the top, unlike before the long slog when it was grabbing in the middle (where it should be).
At the end of the day the center underside of the dashboard was nearly to hot to touch, the part nearest to the gearbox, which im thinking might have been cooking a little...

So, am i in order for a new clutch? Is it possible to adjust it out, the clutch doesnt slip in any way, still feels fine, just grabs near the top...

I appreciate any help.

Cheers

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Mick G
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Post by Mick G » Sat Oct 09, 2010 6:30 pm

Interceptor you can try adjusting it, The problem will rise to the top again soon your Clutch is fried and will need replacing soon. Sorry to be blunt.
Mick.

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TheInterceptor
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Post by TheInterceptor » Sat Oct 09, 2010 7:08 pm

Ah crap, thanks for the quick reply, blunt is good :), would a transmission cooler help or it wont actually affect the front of the tranny where the clutch sits? (Anything to help prevent this from happening again? I will be taking it easy from now on....) Will the clutch actually give way and leave me stranded somwhere?

Thanks

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Barry1956
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Post by Barry1956 » Sat Oct 09, 2010 9:22 pm

The week after the Victorian bushfires in Feb 09 I drove from Melb to Whittlesea to deliver some stuff. On the way home the clutch felt a bit 'funny'. Drove to work in Geelong the next morning, so another 70km mostly freeway.
When in Geelong the clutch died (seized to only a couple of mm of movement, in less than 300 metres. Thankfully it was only half a block from my mechanic at the time. In all, less than 120km from when I first noticed it till fried.
Also, when it goes you will smell it!

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TheInterceptor
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Post by TheInterceptor » Sat Oct 09, 2010 9:28 pm

Cheers Barry, what do you mean by felt funny? Mine happened 3 days ago, drove 10kms last night, and another 15 to work today, nothing out of the ordinary, needa drive alot more tomorrow, but that will be a longer trip and just might be the last one with this clutch..

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steptoe
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Post by steptoe » Sun Oct 10, 2010 2:16 am

A new clutch kit rather than a reco and a new clutch cable, inspect the clutch for for any damage and should have good new clutch for years, machne flywheel, and there are two clutches to be aware of 200mm or 225mm before you get accurate price on parts sorted.

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TheInterceptor
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Post by TheInterceptor » Sun Oct 10, 2010 6:15 am

Shall book it it on monday. Thanks for all the input gents.

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Point
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Post by Point » Sun Oct 10, 2010 10:35 am

check your clutch fork too. It may be bent or split at the pivot
90 Brumby - Stalled EJ project
98 Forester GX
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TheInterceptor
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Post by TheInterceptor » Sun Oct 10, 2010 1:47 pm

Just checked it, looks fine, i tried adjusting the cable aswell with no luck. Seems like its a goner, now i wonder how much its going to set me back.

Ta

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longy99gt
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Post by longy99gt » Sun Oct 10, 2010 8:15 pm

well its a grand to have the clutch replaced?
based on the previous 2 that i have had done, but i have had quotes of upto 1400 by subaru dealers...
"SUUBMARINE"

Previous Previous- 92 LX liberty wagon 5MT, FWD

Previous- 99 GT fozzy white/grey, 5MT,
UHF / 3" >2.5" exhuast / metal sump guard / custom snorkel / 2" lift / 215/70R16 ATR's / custom pine/ply boot with fridge mount/ 2 deep cycle batteries, spotties on UNIbar

Current Project: 2007 XT 5MT Urban Grey Forester
Subaextreme Bullbar and sump guard. GME 5W Super Compact UHF. Custom Boot with Deep cycle 100A Battery, Tools storage, solar controller and low Volt shut off, with Anderson input and outputs.
Whiteline HD Adjustable front and rear sway bars
Whiteline front tower brace and ultrex rear tower brace.
235/50/17 street tires, 235/60/16 ATR's
KYB struts with Raised HD Iron Man Springs. 1"Subtle Solutions strut top blocks.
20" LED Front Light Bar
Side Shade Awning on roof racks with 2x 18W LED Flood lights and 3x LED string lights in awning

Future: Solar Panel roof mounted(under roof basket), Low range Conversion (1.44), HD clutch, 3">2.5"TBE, Rear tire carrier,

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TheInterceptor
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Post by TheInterceptor » Sun Oct 10, 2010 8:40 pm

Wow.

Would a second hand L series 5 speed or another MY gbox come complete with a clutch (and be cheaper than replacing the clutch)? At $1000 id rather try and upgrade.

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steptoe
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Post by steptoe » Sun Oct 10, 2010 9:18 pm

ask for quote or a good estimate, noting the two clutches that can be found within one is about double the other, machine flywheel, replace rear main oil seal while there and ask if the quote is engine out or gearbox out.

My clutch is exactly the same on or off at the top of the pedal, bloody hard pedal it is too, and I have in steptoes shed a used clutch that came out of a crash wreck to go in to try - assuming it was working OK for starters.Thinking I can do it in three to four hours on an MY -expect a god shop would be about same plus allow a bit for other finds like broken mounts, stripped threads.....

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steptoe
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Post by steptoe » Sun Oct 10, 2010 9:20 pm

Learn to do it yerself and save? An upgrade to L Series 5 speed is not easy for the beginner you sound like. Buy a L Series or even a cheap Lib ?

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TheInterceptor
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Post by TheInterceptor » Sun Oct 10, 2010 9:49 pm

Id give it a go but i dont think my garage equipped for an engine/gbox out job...

Guess il be getting the lot done then, machining, new seal...get it fixed up and keep it going for a few more years.

Beginner? Ive never done a clutch job before just general servicing, R&R, brakes, cooling system, accessories eg: water pump, and a bit of electronics. I did take apart a 120Y motor at tafe once aswell...

Thanks for your help mate

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