The AUSubaru.com.au Forums

G'Day all,

I need to pull the diff out of my Brumby.

Is it fine to drive it in 2WD with the Diff, Driveshafts and Propshaft removed?

It won't be driveable with diff in at present.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Dane

yes, but your gearbox will spew oil everywhere.

alex

Ah crap. Thanks for the heads up!

I'd best find another diff then to keep me on the road.

Whilst tapping out a roll pin (and it was only a tap), the pin decided to seperate and the punch kept on going. It didn't feel any different to the other 3 I had just done or any others in the past. Until, bang, the punch and pin become one inside the stub axle. It's so stupid.

(It won't back out, I broke another punch trying)

cover it in wd40 and try. Or else getting it nice and warm works too. I soemtimes use boiling water to heat it up or in a more extreme case try a blow torch or something.

Good thing wd40 isnt flammable!

alex

Dane keep trying you will eventually get it out

Thanks for the encouragement

WD40 hasn't seemed to soak in well enough, but you have given me reason to buy a blowtorch

btw if you havent already, drop the diff outta the car, can get abit more leverage that way.

u cant drive without the rear shafts in...it holds the hubs together

D3V1L wrote:u cant drive without the rear shafts in...it holds the hubs together

This is an MY dave! You can run without the rear shafts in as the stub axles will remain in the hub...

You could try the coke can trick with a clamp to hold it on, this should help with sealing oil in the gearbox as you cruise around without the rear diff and prop shaft etc in. I've done it with my L series but its easier as the prop shaft is a two piece and is designed to leave the front part of the shaft in thus plugging the gearbox.

I used a grinder to get my pin out on one side. The shaft is still usable and held up well with the welded diff. Its still in the subi now. Basically you grind down the pin hole until you get to the stub axle, trying not to go too far in to start grinding the stub axle.

Cheers

Bennie

wrong./..SORRY

LOL...i just realised i have WRX gear in my brumby....LOL.....sorry ignor my comment

find a front yoke from an old tailshaft plug the hole with it wire or cable tie it so it dose'nt fall out and drive but dont put it in 4wd

We fixed the problem. It took six hours of bastard hammer swinging. At one point, if you could take a core sample of the stub axle and inner, you would find the original punch, punch, drill bit, tapered punch, punch. The eventual fix...

A name brand punch and an even bigger hammer.

A big thank you goes out to Jan and Dave. It wouldn't have been possible without your help and persistance.

And thanks to everyone on the Forum who left some advice and encouragement.

See you on tracks

Alex wrote: Good thing wd40 isnt flammable!

alex

mine is...



I think there might be 2 different types. My can is pretty old.

D3V1L wrote:wrong./..SORRY

LOL...i just realised i have WRX gear in my brumby....LOL.....sorry ignor my comment

your still running the original MY hubs etc tho? so your outer CV's etc should be the same as his?

andrew im pretty sure its flammable only when its coming outta the can(ie the propellant)

once its been sprayed it isnt.

but then again....im pretty sure i remember trying to use wd40 as a flame thrower and it didnt work. So maybe the newer stuff isnt flammable.

alex

lol sounds like fun, I'll try it when I get home lol
*please note I may have trouble replying due to burnt fingers

WD40 burns really Well!! :P And yes you can make a flame thrower! Don't try at home kids it throws a rather large flame!