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Hi all , I did a search here because I'm interested in finding out if the genuine stuff works better that the generic concentrates .

I found this thread here and would like to here more of RS 555s thoughts .
showthread.php?t=13797&highlight=Genuin ... ant&page=2

It seems I was on the wrong track with the turbos (Garrett BB dryer) cooling at engine shut down and the hissing was not water boiling in the turbo .
Apparently another one of the EA82Ts party tricks is to crack and leak coolant out through the exhaust ports when shut down hot .
Coxy put me onto a fantastic product called CarGo Metallic Seal-Up and that did the trick with the internal leak . No more hissing after shut down and don't seem to be losing coolant so far .
In the instructions they get you to flush your cooling system and fill with tap water and add the contents of the thoroughly shaken bottle . They say you need to have the water level just above the rad core but you can't see this in an L series rad and its cross-flow anyway . I just filled my cooling system up and drove the couple of kays to Repco knowing that as soon as the thermostat opened there'd be room for this stuff .
So I shakes and pours it in and tops up with tap water , I ALlWAYS carry about 3L of water with me , EA82s make ya paranoid .
Anyway off I goes to my tyre people to replace one tyre and asks to keep it running because this stuff is supposed to work with 30 min running .

The thing is that I noticed the water temperature was showing cooler than it had been and I put it down to the sealer filling the crack and making the cooling system work properly .
Later I flushed the cooling system to get the stuff out , it had an almost soapy (not foamy) consistency even though it was virtually clear .
I had some of the Tekalloy (Sp ?) Gold and put that in because I don't dare run without corrosion inhibitor in anything .
Afterwards the temps seemed a little higher so I gather that whatever was in that CarGo stuff was a better cooling agent than the Tekalloy I'm using .

So , can anyone tell me if the genuine coolant for EJs will work better or can I run higher concentrations of the Tekalloy gold to achieve the same thing .

Cheers Adrian .

pretty sure you'll find in most cases water will still have a better cooling ability than corrosion inhabitor... but running straight water in alloy engines with other metals for hose fittings etc, will make for a nice corrosive habbitat...

so we have no choice but to run coolant, so i just go with the best brand i can find made specifically for alloy engines... though have never tried genuine subaru stuff...


cheers

Yeah there is nothing with a higher specific heat capacity than water. Adding corrosion inhibitor and anti freeze make your radiator system last longer and more tolerant to cold temperatures, but at a slight cost of the ability for the water to remove heat from the engine.

Yes.. as mentioned above, Water is the best disbursement of heat so no product will work as good. What the Subaru Coolant does best is protection from corrosion and rubber seals going hard due to the high quantity of glycol. I use this due to experiance with it but also use Techaloy Gold n the older Subies. I use the 1ltr concentrate and fill the rest with distilled water.

Ive used Nulan coolant for a few years and they seem to do the job...
Cheers
AP

i was told many years ago the important consideration is the amount of glycol in the coolant. Any coolant with 1080 mmol/L (a measurement of the 'concentration') of glycol should be OK.

I note many coolant manufacturers no longer list this measurement on their packaging and even the Castrol brand seems to be around 1065 mmol/L these days. Put simply make sure you buy the coolant with the highest concentration of glycol.

discopotato03 wrote: It seems I was on the wrong track with the turbos (Garrett BB dryer) cooling at engine shut down and the hissing was not water boiling in the turbo .

Mine used to gurgle. You could feel it if you touched the top turbo water pipe (the one that runs back to the thermostat)

What mine used to do was make the same sound as if you were dripping water onto a hot fry pan .
I'd say what was happening was that the cracks these heads can develop was allowing coolant to drip down into my stainless steel headers , which are Thermotech wrapped BTW , and sizzling at the foot of the first bend .

RSR 555 would there be any issue using the EJ coolant or doubling the dose with the Techaloy gold ?

With water yes I know it has the highest thermal mass of any commonly available fluid .
What I don't know is how altering its viscosity would help keep its temperature more uniform overall .

Cheers A .

From doing a few searches it seems that Ethylene Glycol is not as good a cooling agent as water so I won't be rushing out to do the 50% glycol thing .

Also about the Metallic Seal-Up , that's not why we wus cooling a bit better . Clever had the heater going to ensure full coolant circulation and it was pulling a bit of the heat out of the cooling system .

A couple of interesting things I learnt today from the factory 87 WSM .
Firstly in some countries they got oil coolers std on EA82Ts and that supposedly the Turbo Auto cars had the 32mm vs 16mm thick radiator core inc here in Aus std . Doesn't someone here have a locally delivered Turbo Auto sedan , the one without the RX decals and the checkered flag interior ?

I should have asked Tynans Subaru spares last time I was there if they were available genuine ex Japan .

My rad people can build one and should know more about that next week .

Cheers A .

discopotato03 wrote:RSR 555 would there be any issue using the EJ coolant or doubling the dose with the Techaloy gold ?

What I don't know is how altering its viscosity would help keep its temperature more uniform overall .

Not sure if you mean EJ coolant is the genuine stuff but I'll assume so. I'd recommend and do use Techaloy Gold in all 3 of my RX Leone's. I'm very happy with it but I'm sure that other products like others have said also work well. One thing to remember is never mix different brands so do a flush and stick to one brand.

Different concertrations of Glycol won't change the unformity of the temp, that is the thermostats job.

discopotato03 wrote:From doing a few searches it seems that Ethylene Glycol is not as good a cooling agent as water so I won't be rushing out to do the 50% glycol thing .

Also about the Metallic Seal-Up , that's not why we wus cooling a bit better . Clever had the heater going to ensure full coolant circulation and it was pulling a bit of the heat out of the cooling system .

A couple of interesting things I learnt today from the factory 87 WSM .
Firstly in some countries they got oil coolers std on EA82Ts and that supposedly the Turbo Auto cars had the 32mm vs 16mm thick radiator core inc here in Aus std . Doesn't someone here have a locally delivered Turbo Auto sedan , the one without the RX decals and the checkered flag interior ?

I should have asked Tynans Subaru spares last time I was there if they were available genuine ex Japan .

My rad people can build one and should know more about that next week .

Cheers A .

I have both Auto and Manual and the Auto is ex-japan and the manual Aus delivered both have a 2 core rad. Although Glen (aka Gleno) just got a new rad for his L and it's a single core Aluminium rad (plastic tanks) and works really well.

Yes they say at USMB that the aluminium single core one works reasonably well , I don't suppose you know what brand it is .

Also I'd really like to see pics of the OE twin core radiator because I'm curious to know if the top and bottom steel straps are central or offset on the 32mm thick twin core . I'd also like to know what they did on the thicker core to space the std and elec booster fan Shrouds .

In your experience does the twin core cool a lot better than the single ?

Cheers , Adrian .

Not sure of the brand name but I'll ask Glen in about 30 mins. We are going to work on his car soon.

As for the twin core setback.. it is just put the extra row in the front part of the rad so the distance between the rad and fans remains the same as the single core.

Twin core is much better than single but not really required if you keep the rad in good condition unless you're planning on doing heavy 4WDing, Beach driving or driving through the centre of Aus.

Well when we measured the single row core against its end plates it was in the center and has about 8mm of space in front and behind it . I have to gather that the twin row core is the full width of the wide tank end or pass side if you like .

From the few pics I could find (US) the twin row radiator I believe had brass tanks and not the plastic/composite ones like my Koyo single row copper/brass cored one .
These may have been aftermarket , do your twin core rads have plastic or brass tanks ?

If I could see a pic from the top looking down on one of your auto radiators that would show me the differences .

My engine was put together with the intention of making a bit more power than a std RX and seems to be asking for more cooling capacity .

Cheers A .

Ok.. Sorry I didn't reply earlier but we got stuck into fixing Gleno's car.

Firstly.. I asked Glen the brand of his rad but he's unable to recall. He did remember that it's from one of our local aftermarket suppliers so you might find one over your way?

I'll have to look and check for you but I think they are all plastic tanks. As for picture for you, I'll need to do that tomorrow.

As for the extra cooling then I'd look at a twin core with the metal tanks. The tank size seem a lot larger. I did a few years ago make a brand new rad with twin core and tanks off another model car, I think they were cut down hilux tanks as I needed them to have larger outlets for the EJ conversion but I'm sure if you get on good with your local radiator repair shop, then maybe they'll will let you go through all their odd/spare tanks.