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Does anyone know if you can weld a EA81 block? Does the alloy contain any lead?

As my latest problem with the Ute is 2 cracks beside the thread for the oil pressure switch, which need to be welded up. The ute is really giving me the s%^*'s with all the random stuff that keeps happening it! But thats another story.

Welcome to my world

Any pics of the cracks?

Yeah i have pics just been to lazy to put them up. As i went to be on holidays...


Shot with u1050SW,S1050SW at 2009-12-17


Shot with u1050SW,S1050SW at 2009-12-17

Crickey, thats a decent crack as well!

Welding cast metals is a specialist job but if its too much work to use a different block your not going to lose anything by letting them try!

Unfortunately i have spent a little bit of money on this block and would like to keep it. (About 12 months ago, new mains, 1mm oversize pistons, rings, rebore / rehone, machined, etc)
With the wonders of Quick Steel i have managed to slow the leak down enough / stop the leak enough to drive it short term, i am guessing a month hopefully to get the block out and to a specialist hopefully. (and i will carry spare oil in the mean time) I may even have a play myself yet with some aluminium brazing / Soldering rods i have at home when i get home from my holiday. As i don't have much to lose. As i have a spare block at home.

Also the crack looks way bigger in the photo, it would be under 0.5mm at it widest.

if u want to weld it up u need to tig it
first u need to clean it up as so there is no oil there .
cut the crack out and clean it up but cut out more them the crack so the u have got clean metal to weld too and build it all back
then preheat it to about 450c so that u burn all of the oil out .
wire brush it when it is hot and tig weld it up when it is hot and it will fix it .
try not let it cool down to much when u are welding it up .
that how i weld up this stuff as if u do not remove the oil in will leak the some ?

Sounds like i was going to do Phill but unfortunately i don't have a TIG, it is on my wish list with a Lathe and Mill... LOL However i will be giving this fancy Brazing / soldering rods a go with the oxy so heat should be no drama, and cleaness is the only rule of soldering! LOL!

the best way i find to clean is used a "5" grinder with a wire brash on it'

I was thinking a little bit harsher with a flapper disc but i will see how it goes when i get home.

as all want to do is clean it .
if u flapper disc it u are just pushing the dirt into the thing and not removing it

Subaru uses a blend of 5 to 10% magnesium in their casting to help slow corrosion. You can actually see little sparks of it burning if you put a flame on it. So, not sure if that would make it hard to braze...

So keep an extinguisher handy then... This sounds like it is going to be fun job... LOL

So obviously you are going to try on a useless test piece first? lol

I tried welding a head with a mig and gas, no luck as I couldn't pre-heat it enough first...

This is what i was going to play around with on it. It will be interesting to see how it goes.

http://www.ultrabond.8m.com/

http://www.ultrabond.8m.com/custom.html

Interesting.. Looks like a good tool to use for the DIY cheap guy.

just get a friend in the engine reco works, they tig them after heating. they have a cinder block style oven with bbq burners to heat the alloy befor welding.

use stainless steel brush as ordinary wire brush will leave residue which will make it hard to weld and will still leak. don't use anything like sandpaper/glasspaper it leaves residue. cleanliness is absolutely essential, clean every few mm.

shuffbag wrote:just get a friend in the engine reco works, they tig them after heating. they have a cinder block style oven with bbq burners to heat the alloy befor welding.

The problem with that I see is you would have to rip the whole thing down and clean it. I think his hoping to weld it with the engine intact.