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Hi All,
Still slowly rebuilding Brumby , had put Gearbox rebuild on hold but started again this weekend, I cannot remove then nut holding on the middle transfer case rear gear.It the one that is 35mm with the shaft it is on has a cross headed pattern on it. I tried engineering a socket to fit the cross head so that i could turn the shaft as there is not enough room to turn the nut but the steel i welded to the socket was too soft and sheared under pressure. (even tried to heat treat it to harden the metal but it still sheared) Question: Is there a trick to this little sucker or do I have to buy a special tool ? Any help would be great.

Phil wrote:Hi All,
Still slowly rebuilding Brumby , had put Gearbox rebuild on hold but started again this weekend, I cannot remove then nut holding on the middle transfer case rear gear.It the one that is 35mm with the shaft it is on has a cross headed pattern on it. I tried engineering a socket to fit the cross head so that i could turn the shaft as there is not enough room to turn the nut but the steel i welded to the socket was too soft and sheared under pressure. (even tried to heat treat it to harden the metal but it still sheared) Question: Is there a trick to this little sucker or do I have to buy a special tool ? Any help would be great.

Nah, You'll need 1-3/8" socket and rattle gun to undo it, But before you do you need to bend it back a bit, its very tight and you cant seem to undo it off the vice.
Cheers
AP

edit: You cannot buy 35mm socket, the nearest would be 36mm in metric terms, but the nearest "fitable" size would be 1-3/8".
Cheers
AP

Thanks for taking the time to write info AP,
I take it that you wedge the gear with a piece of wood to stop it spinning when you hit it with the rattle gun. I have just started to track down the socket making sure it is thin walled to fit through the tunnel. Will keep you posted.

Phil , if you can not get a thin wall socket you will have to machine the od down like I did with mine

Hi Justin, Seagull,AL
I could not find a socket thin enough so i had a engineering shop machine down the 35 mm one i had.(thanks seagull) Took it down to outside diameter of 45 mm Cost 18 bucks and they did a terrific job. I was able to undo the nut by holding the gear with a oil filter wrench (lined with rubber so it wont damage the teeth) and a couple of gentle belts on the 12-inch drive handle with a rubber mallet and ta da that nut came loose allowing me to finally split the box. The inside looks fine but I am now working out how everything fits together as i have found a egg shaped ball bearing in the bottom of the housing as well as the three flat shifting inserts for the first gear syncro . Just working out how the cir-clip holds them in place.No idea where the egg shape BB came from. Slowly getting there, its a big job for the first timer. The setting of the pinion and drive is worrying me but that will be a job for next week as i have to order seals and gaskets on Monday for next weekend.
Phil

was the box noisy before you took it out of the car if so how

while driving but not running in neutral look on th bottom shaft and rear housing

in neutral engine running is the rear top shaft bearing or input shaft bearing

the rear topshaft bearing is the most common one ive found
have had a few so worn that they fell to bits in the press trying to remove them

Hi Matt, No the gearbox was not noisy .This all started when i was changing the clutch . The bell housing and rear engine housing were both completely covered in oil and as such i decided to change the rear engine seal and the front gearbox seal. didn't know about the front shaft carrier being only accessible by splitting the whole box thought i would undo the three bolts and replace seal... wrong put puller on it and snapped it. (have to find another). The inside of the box is clean and i have ordered new seals and gaskets the bearings seem fine with no movement. Do you have any clues where the elongated type ball bearing goes i found it in the bottom of the 2nd gearbox housing?
Thanks
Phil

now i think about it sounds like one of the selector stops from the 4wd lo range selectors at the back of the box

Greetings,

I stumbled upon it whilst researching a planned Tranny Front Seal Replacement on my 1988 Brumby that has given me great service for over 12 years of ownership.
Just wondering how your tranny split and seal replacement is coming along ? If you are interested I managed to get hold of a PDF file of the Transmission Manual, it's a genuine one that some one has taken the time to scan and save it to a pdf file about 2 mb in size.
Any tips would be much appreciated.

Cheers, Bushby.

Hi Bushby,
Thanks for the email. the rebuild is progressing slowly since i can only work on it every other weekend. I have bought all the seals and gaskets but still need to source a front input shaft housing that mates to the bell housing. I have a pdf manual from the web which is for the 5 speed but mine is a 4 if the one you have is for the 4 that would be great. If you plan on rebuilding a lot of parts are still available from subaru. Some expensive for some others very reasonable. If you have read my other threads I thought the seal replacement would be straight foward, but this is not the case and you have to split the box, tips: start at the back of the box and work forward , use a Digital camera or bag and tag each component. Need time.I have alot of work commitments and travel time so this has turned into a long process but im in no hurry.Hope this info helps.
Phil