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hi everyone

ive just found that my outer cv boots are shot on my l series

i wanted to just change my outer cv joints and boots

i have checked my haynes book. it say's that i have to change the hole shaft including inner cv joints

is this true? or can you just change the outer cv joint?

thanks Rob

(ps: i searched this forum but it will not seach for cv so i found nothing.)

t35345 wrote:hi everyone

ive just found that my outer cv boots are shot on my l series

i wanted to just change my outer cv joints and boots

i have checked my haynes book. it say's that i have to change the hole shaft including inner cv joints

is this true? or can you just change the outer cv joint?

thanks Rob

(ps: i searched this forum but it will not seach for cv so i found nothing.)

nah you have to start from inner to outer because you won't be able to fit the new boot on as it goes thru from inner section to outer section.

It would be best if you replaced both boots at one go. I know its a pain in the arse.
Cheers
AP

Here's an outer CV kit. Most parts shops should be able to supply something similar, but it is often easier to get a complete shaft and bung it straight in.

This thread has some tips that might be useful when it comes to doing the job.

Dane.

Several whole kits availble on ebay ~$100, just looked myself.

there are complete shafts on ebay for around $95, when you consider an outer cv will cost about $38 and a boot about $20, its probably cheaper in the long run to just do the lot and the cvs will probably last the life of the car.
You have to knock out a pin on the inner shaft each side drop the end down and then undo the big 36mm nut on the outer hub knock the shaft through then replace in the opposite order. I made up a puller for the shaft makes it dead easy to replace.
the big nut has to be done up to about 200psi or something like that so you need a big torque wrench.
I undid the nut by putting a piece of waterpipe on my sidchrome L handle and putting the car jack under it and then jacking it up. I have a mate with a big torque wrench so borrowed that.

Yeah took me a while to figure out that its got a pin holding it there - its a good experiencing changing them

the cv retaining nut is done up to 235 nm according to my gregorys book

I just use a 36 mm socket on a 3/4 breaker bar and use my 105 kg to well and truely tighten the nut (tighten it up then stand on the bar so it moves a good half a turn past tight)

when i replace one CV (normally the outer) I will inspect the inner which is messy but normally worthwhile

I have two spare shafts (for my brumby) that need to be serviced when I do I will take pictures of the servicing and booting process

and the removal and install

(did I just shoot myself in the foot?)

TOONGA