Oil Pump Seals

CPOCSM · Post by **CPOCSM** » Fri Jan 16, 2009 11:49 am

I went in to Soob in Phillip(ACT) to source the seals for the oil pump as I am trying to stop the tic tic tic of the EA82(driving me mad!) and a thermostat and gasket(I dont think the thermo has been replaced since new)as I am getting the gurgling into the overflow tank when the car is showing cool.

The bad news is there are no kits global for these seals and the guy at the counter wasnt much help at all. Therefore does anyone have an outlet for either the whole pump(new if possible) or the sealing kit. Advice is welcomed...

Hooroo

maxxair · Post by **maxxair** » Fri Jan 16, 2009 2:46 pm

i know on ebay america, you can get FULL gasket kit inluding the oilpump seals for around 60bux. worth a look???

bobbyjimmy · Post by **bobbyjimmy** » Mon Jan 19, 2009 9:23 am

Try another dealer?

Smokey · Post by **Smokey** » Mon Jan 19, 2009 3:57 pm

EJ22 Oil pump has a liquid gasket and an O ring that is the culprit in many cases. Failing that the oil pump may need an over haul. I'd guess the EA82 oil pump is the same deal.

And re the thermostat gasket just visit a parts store repco etc and get anyone that fits. Take the old one is even if its in two parts or if that is not possible take the top housing into the shop.

My local (Penrtith NSW) stores of choice for parts searching are Scotts Auto one, Repco and AutoBarn not in any order. Supercheap is good for off the shelf stuff but not the best when it comes to ordering or non off the shelf items.

CPOCSM · Post by **CPOCSM** » Tue Jan 20, 2009 12:12 pm

All sorted!!

Bruce at Capital Soob put me right with a set of seals(he says he always keeps one set on hand for the older models)including the shaft seal and that magical one everyone talks about.

The thermostat turned up from the "other" dealer in the ACT so pick that up on Thursday arvo. I am looking for the hoses now as I am going to do the whole cooling sustem while I am at it - I have an aftermarket rad to drop in for the original item as I think it is well past its use by date as I am getting to refill the thing every afternoon due to the water leaking out of the expansion bottle. This to me isnt a HG issue but the cooling system slowly sh*tting the biscuit and I think the thermostat has jammed patially closed so my long week-end will be one of tinkering and playing about with the Soob.

Will keep you posted and thanks for all the advice - you are all wiley in the ways...hooroo

CPOCSM · Post by **CPOCSM** » Tue Jan 20, 2009 12:25 pm

Just a further one for you all...

I can drain the water from the rad via the water cock on the side of the radiator however where on the EA82 is the block drain? Do I just therow the garden hose into the radiator and turn it up to full and do it that way??

Thanks in Advance...

Rob F

maxxair · Post by **maxxair** » Tue Jan 20, 2009 1:25 pm

^ i only have done this^ i dontknow of a blockdrain. put the hose ito the water hose to the block tho.

secret tip for you mate> when flushing the coolant, drain and rinse till its clear water, then fill it with as much Bi-Carb Soda as you can be bothered stuffiing into the rad and run it around for a bit, take it for a drive. i did this for one days driving. The puss that came out was incredible. rinse and fill with coolant, this will make a LOT of difference in the cooling of the engine. its not much more hassle. cheers mate hava good one.
(this secret is from the oldschool and was passed downto me by an old mate. it is best applicable for alloy heads. since subes are all alloy it works a treat)

CPOCSM · Post by **CPOCSM** » Wed Jan 21, 2009 5:28 am

Excellent idea - will do that!

Yet another problem now - got home yesterday and the smell was unbearable. Popped the bonnet and there was whispy smoke under the spare...further investigation revealled there was a pinhole in the inner joint gaiter...CV grease all over the place!!! GRRRRRR when will it end!!!!!

So my week-end may turn out to making an L series from raw materials at this rate!! Things happen in threes so I am betting that will be it. I am driving it to work today(16km round trip) and will be ripping the inner joint out tonight - Capital Soob is making a fortune from me!!

Hooroo

bobbyjimmy · Post by **bobbyjimmy** » Wed Jan 21, 2009 8:10 am

Capital is alot better than the other* dealer, have alot more parts in stock too.

* It's Rolfe's, theres only 2 dealers in ACT, so not to hard to work out.

fredsub · Post by **fredsub** » Wed Jan 21, 2009 8:36 am

maxxair wrote:^ i only have done this^ i dontknow of a blockdrain. put the hose ito the water hose to the block tho.

secret tip for you mate> when flushing the coolant, drain and rinse till its clear water, then fill it with as much Bi-Carb Soda as you can be bothered stuffiing into the rad and run it around for a bit, take it for a drive. i did this for one days driving. The puss that came out was incredible. rinse and fill with coolant, this will make a LOT of difference in the cooling of the engine. its not much more hassle. cheers mate hava good one.
(this secret is from the oldschool and was passed downto me by an old mate. it is best applicable for alloy heads. since subes are all alloy it works a treat)

I'd have a big think about that before attempting to do as suggested.

Did you know Bi-Carb Soda is an alkali in solution ?
Try putting some Aluminium in it, the slugy stuff is the Al Oxide being stripped off it. However Bi-Carb isn't as vigorous as say Caustic Soda, that'll do a really good job if that is what your trying to do:).

To clean your cooling system there is another product you can buy - and it works by abrasion, run it for a week or so.

CPOCSM · Post by **CPOCSM** » Wed Jan 21, 2009 1:05 pm

bobbyjimmy wrote:Capital is alot better than the other* dealer, have alot more parts in stock too.

* It's Rolfe's, theres only 2 dealers in ACT, so not to hard to work out.

Yepp I am hearing you - I got a thermo from them in Phillip and took a week - Bruce at Capital was called at 10am this morning - the gaiters(I ordered 2 so I have a spare when the other one goes as well!!) will be here by midday Thursday!! The service there is top notch - not saying that the "other" one isnt - just seems to be more friendlier!

As for ripping the DOJ/CV off - I have the Muir book "Soobs for idiots" guide so I should be ok - any pitfalls in the removal of the inner joint and do I have to remove the entire hub or just the control arm?

Hooroo

Rob F

Smokey · Post by **Smokey** » Thu Jan 22, 2009 1:08 pm

Try removing as little as possible. Remove one thing then try the next etc, till you can get the DOJ cup off. Last time I did one, all I had to remove was the roll pin (hacked off the end of an old screw driver that happened to be a good diameter to use as a punch), the inner control arm bolt, and undid the radius rod locknut (rear end of the rod). Then just had my wife pull the lifted wheel (car jacked up and on stands

) away form the car while I pulled the cup off the spline from the front of the bay. Doing up the metal clips on the boot once finished is a bugger though, not to mention trying to remove the grease that went everywhere from the broken boot

.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Fri Jan 23, 2009 10:50 am

I do it the other way , removing nearly everything as I find it less of a struggle.Get the whole shaft out of car to work on. First I pull on H brake, shove in gear and remove split pin on shaft, crack open the 36mm nut with me jumping on pipe extension of 600mm 3/4" breaker bar, safely jack and support front end, then I remove wheel, 14 or 17mm caliper retain bolts, calipe, disc, undo tie rod nut and taper, remove dust shield, undo the 14mm ball joint bolt and two others securing mount to shock, I even undo 17mm on back end of radius rod bar and the bolts rad rod bar to lower control arm 17mm, the 10mm hbrake cable to low arm bolt and just drop low contr arm down outta the way then pin punch and lift out shaft still in hub assy....

maxxair · Post by **maxxair** » Fri Jan 23, 2009 2:53 pm

^F**K That^ your keen.
as for bicarb being alkili, thats how it works. cleans real good. rinse well and add coolant. Illd be more wary putting abrasive grit into the system for fear of wrecking the seal in the waterpump.

subybrumby · Post by **subybrumby** » Fri Jan 23, 2009 7:16 pm

Getting back to the oil pump seals, went into wippels subaru here in Toowoomba to order the oil pump seal kit for an EA82 Turbo. Will be here Tuesday. No problem. Plenty in Australia on the subaru network he said. And I have trouble with a very noisy lifter (lash adjuster). Have been running on 20w50 Valvaline but changed this morning to Castrol magnatec 10w 40. Noise went away after a couple of minutes but is coming slighty on and off in the background. Just waiting to see if it takes up some more. Have only idled the car in the carport and not driven anywhere yet. Have been having some heating problems with it too. Don't know if its connected to the oil type yet??? Thinking of going to a three core radiator but problem with space.

Smokey · Post by **Smokey** » Fri Jan 23, 2009 7:40 pm

steptoe wrote:I do it the other way , removing nearly everything as I find it less of a struggle.....

I have to agree with you Steptoe. I like to take the min apart but if one Boot breaks, its bets to replace all 4 and though it will take a few hours to do it your way, its done and dusted for a few years. New grease, peace of mind etc. Also would be piss easy to do up those damn annoying metal ties that hold the boots in place.

But for a quick one boot (inner) job, I'd still go my way

CPOCSM · Post by **CPOCSM** » Sat Jan 24, 2009 9:33 am

subybrumby wrote:Getting back to the oil pump seals, went into wippels subaru here in Toowoomba to order the oil pump seal kit for an EA82 Turbo. Will be here Tuesday. No problem. Plenty in Australia on the subaru network he said. And I have trouble with a very noisy lifter (lash adjuster). Have been running on 20w50 Valvaline but changed this morning to Castrol magnatec 10w 40. Noise went away after a couple of minutes but is coming slighty on and off in the background. Just waiting to see if it takes up some more. Have only idled the car in the carport and not driven anywhere yet. Have been having some heating problems with it too. Don't know if its connected to the oil type yet??? Thinking of going to a three core radiator but problem with space.

You want to have a coronary - go into wippells and ask how much a Jecs fuel pump is....you will have kittens. Jamie Henry is the parts manager there and asked me if I wanted to sit down before he told me the price....

. Went to school with him yonks ago when I lived in Toowoomba...bit of a rotary nut too.

Yepp I just limped home with the radiator overflow spewing horrible smelling water all over the place and it smells like the Bars stuff I put in it a couple of weeks ago. So I think I will do the radiator first, water pump and all the hoses plus the stat, then I will attack the DOJ and the gaiter!!

Hooroo - will get some pics of the work too...it is a mess under there with that creepy grease all over the place...

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sat Jan 24, 2009 10:26 am

You do not have to buy genuine thermostats and wait a week, aftermarket available from most auto parts shops.

With practice I think I have swapped a new cv shaft in 20 mins out 25 in pulling all above apart.
Wax and grease remover is best I have found to clean up CV boot grease. Degreaser does stuff all

fredsub · Post by **fredsub** » Sat Jan 24, 2009 10:39 am

why clean the CV grease? makes good under body rust protection after a couple boots get broke. the inner boot particularly gives a good spray on front lift bits;) good excuse to be messy;)

CPOCSM · Post by **CPOCSM** » Mon Jan 26, 2009 7:56 am

Gday all - well thanks for all the advice given for tremoval. I went the long way and pulled the lot off and lucky I did - the castellated nut on the lower ball joint had threaded to the extent that it was removed with my fingers - the only thing holding it on was the split pin!!! Very lucky and probably explains what that "clunk" was every time I drive off!

I am now heading out to se if I can find a replacement at Super crap or Repco - I am not holding my breath though:mad:

Apart from that the changeout went well with the whole lot coming off in just under 20 mins and replaced in 60...apart from the ball joint nut...GRRRRR

I even pulled a nut off the mini and it didnt fit...bugger it all!

Hooroo

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