castellated nut

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32ford
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castellated nut

Post by 32ford » Wed Jun 04, 2008 11:54 am

has anyone out there used a paper or leather washer behind their castellated nuts at the end of the CVs. I have had a sh#t of a time getting one of them undone and was thinking that to avoid this problem a paper washer might make it easier next time. I have always used a paper washer on the chuck of the lathe as it is subject to the same type of shock loading , and it means you can always get the chuck off, without damaging the lathe or the chuck.

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Alex
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Post by Alex » Wed Jun 04, 2008 2:55 pm

never heard of this before.

i just use the two washers that come with it.

alex
my07 Outback
my13 Hyundai i45(shhhh)
my02 Gen3 Liberty limited ed.

previously
L-series wagon, LSD, EJ20turbo, 29in tyres, 'wanky wagon'
2000 gen3 outback, lifted, otherwise stock.

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dfoyl
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Post by dfoyl » Wed Jun 04, 2008 5:53 pm

The 36mm nut is easy to undo...attach socket on long breaker bar, put car in reverse and slowly let out clutch.

Not quite so easy at a wreckers or on a not-running vehicle. Big breaker bar and plenty of force...

Dean.
1989 Brumby - Shiny new red paint, stroked EJ20 phase 2 SOHC with Darton sleeves bored to EJ22, Wiseco high-compression pistons, Delta 2000 grind cams , EJ/XT6 5 stud with WRX 4/2 pots, 5-speed, 86 GTS seats and so much more.
Contact me for reproduction XT6 hubs...and EA82 rear discs.

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littlewhiteute
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Post by littlewhiteute » Wed Jun 04, 2008 7:12 pm

36mm socket 3/4 drive breaker bar, not an issue, torque spec for the nut is 196Nm, 144 ftlb.
No point in putting anything soft under the nut.
Regards

Gary ;)

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Morcs
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Post by Morcs » Wed Jun 04, 2008 9:49 pm

Like they all have said they are always tight make sure they are lubed when you replace them etc. Use a longer lever. I have peice of 50mm stainless tube that i use over my 3/4 inch socket handle as a longer lever to (crack)the nut before i jack it of the ground (bigger socket Drive= bigger Jumps on lever(without Breakage)). Always needs to be tight as they make funny grinding noise if loose
So many optioins not enough time or money:confused:

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AlpineRaven
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Post by AlpineRaven » Wed Jun 04, 2008 10:10 pm

I wouldnt do that kind of thing because it'll wear down and cause free play then one day you'll hear funny noises and will drive you crazy. I do recall seeing washers and no washers behind the nut, always used breaker bar while the car is on the ground before I do further work on the car.
Cheers
AP
Subarus that I have/had:
1995 Liberty "Rallye" - 5MT AWD, LSD - *written off 25/8/06 in towing accident.
1996 Liberty Wagon - SkiFX AWD 5MT D/R, Lifted.. Outback Sway Bar, 1.59:1 Low Gearing see thread: 1.59:1 in EJ Box Page
Sold at 385,000kms in July 2011.
2007 Liberty BP Wagon, 2.5i automatic
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32ford
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Post by 32ford » Wed Jun 04, 2008 10:41 pm

ok i get the message use more leverage, I just found that there was one really tight nut and it got me thinking about what I do on the lathe to prevent really tight chucks.

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