EA82 timing belts protocol & water pump ?
EA82 timing belts protocol & water pump ?
Tick, Tick, Tick, Tick Tick..............................
Time for the timing belts to come out of the cardboard boxes and go into the engine. I also need to have a look at the water pump as there is an intermittent leak there.
6 subies to date (1 x EA71, 3 x EA81, 2 x EA82) and I have never had to do a timing belt. So, are there any other parts I should have before doing the work, apart from the belts ? I live in rural NSW.
Any tips on adjusting the belt tension for the home mechanic or any other part of the process of replacing them ?
PS: I downloaded the engine manual from links on this site, excellent stuff !!
Time for the timing belts to come out of the cardboard boxes and go into the engine. I also need to have a look at the water pump as there is an intermittent leak there.
6 subies to date (1 x EA71, 3 x EA81, 2 x EA82) and I have never had to do a timing belt. So, are there any other parts I should have before doing the work, apart from the belts ? I live in rural NSW.
Any tips on adjusting the belt tension for the home mechanic or any other part of the process of replacing them ?
PS: I downloaded the engine manual from links on this site, excellent stuff !!
- Gannon
- Senior Member
- Posts: 4580
- Joined: Sat Nov 05, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: Bowraville, Mid Nth Coast, NSW
The ticking isnt caused by old belts,.. its usually one of or a combination of; Oil pump seals letting bubbles in the oil, Oil Pump not providing enough pressure, Hydraulic Lifters worn.
As far as replacing belts goes,.. just follow every step carefully from the manual and dont forget to rotate the engine 1 turn between each belt.
As far as replacing belts goes,.. just follow every step carefully from the manual and dont forget to rotate the engine 1 turn between each belt.
Current rides: 2016 Mitsubishi Triton GLS & 2004 Forester X
Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
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Ongoing Project/Toy: 1987 RX Turbo EA82T, Speeduino ECU, Coil-pack ignition, 440cc Injectors, KONI adjustale front struts, Hybrid L Series/ Liberty AWD 5sp
Past rides: 92 L series turbo converted wagon, 83 Leone GL Sedan, 2004 Liberty GT Sedan & 2001 Outback
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- El_Freddo
- Master Member
- Posts: 12637
- Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: Bridgewater Vic
- Contact:
Hey penguin!
Tick, tick, tick - thats what EA82's do, regardless of timing belt age.
To replace the timing belts - can remove the radiator to help with room to move in there.
Remove AC/alternator assembly and fold over into battery placement (with battery removed)
Take the harmonic balancer off - a breaker bar with the handbrake on with the car in 4th or 5th will do the job
Remove the cam covers. This will expose the cam timing belts and the water pump. This is the best time to replace the water pump.
Also best to replace the idler gears - these are the parts that usually seize up and rip the belts to shreds.
Trick with the cam timing - line up three marks in flywheel, line up one cam gear, put the belt on, tighten, ROTATE the crank ONE ROTATION then line up the other cam. This will put the two cams in correct timing with eachother.
Put it all back to gether, time the spark and your right to go!
Have fun.
Cheers
Bennie
Tick, tick, tick - thats what EA82's do, regardless of timing belt age.
To replace the timing belts - can remove the radiator to help with room to move in there.
Remove AC/alternator assembly and fold over into battery placement (with battery removed)
Take the harmonic balancer off - a breaker bar with the handbrake on with the car in 4th or 5th will do the job
Remove the cam covers. This will expose the cam timing belts and the water pump. This is the best time to replace the water pump.
Also best to replace the idler gears - these are the parts that usually seize up and rip the belts to shreds.
Trick with the cam timing - line up three marks in flywheel, line up one cam gear, put the belt on, tighten, ROTATE the crank ONE ROTATION then line up the other cam. This will put the two cams in correct timing with eachother.
Put it all back to gether, time the spark and your right to go!
Have fun.
Cheers
Bennie
Thanks for the easy to read tips !!! Just what i was after.
The ticking only started to occur 3 weeks ago and it ticks for 20-30min then disappears. It is quite loud and sounds a bit more than the usual tappet noise of subies. When I listen with a hollow tube on to the motor the epicenter of the noise is around where the crankshaft comes through the forward block near the timing cover.
I should do the belts in any case, but anything I should look for while the surgery is underway.
Ciao
Mick
The ticking only started to occur 3 weeks ago and it ticks for 20-30min then disappears. It is quite loud and sounds a bit more than the usual tappet noise of subies. When I listen with a hollow tube on to the motor the epicenter of the noise is around where the crankshaft comes through the forward block near the timing cover.
I should do the belts in any case, but anything I should look for while the surgery is underway.
Ciao
Mick
- El_Freddo
- Master Member
- Posts: 12637
- Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2005 10:00 am
- Location: Bridgewater Vic
- Contact:
I think you'll find that the tick is the lifters. One may be shagged out, got a bit of grit stuck in the tiny hole that feed the oil or the oil needs changing. The reason the noise is coming from near the camshaft gear is because its probabily the lifter nearest the camshaft gear...penguin wrote:The ticking only started to occur 3 weeks ago and it ticks for 20-30min then disappears. It is quite loud and sounds a bit more than the usual tappet noise of subies.
There's really nothing else to look for, except maybe oil weeping from the cranshaft oil seal...
Anything you want to do to the oil pump, this is the best time to do it too.
Cheers
Bennie
Tic Tic Tic Tic - thank you Mr Fuji and those bloody lifters!!!!
Honestly - if the timing belt is a known mileage and has plenty to go - dont bother.
If you must change it - do it...
However...
- DO the water pump while it is apart if it needs doing(I would do it:) )
- DO the oil pump seals - this will go a long way to short listing the lifter issues(if the seals are a wee bit suss, it let the air in and aerates the oil - which the first stop is after the oil pump is....the lifters and galleries)
- DO check the idler bearings - this is how my timing belt snapped when the passenger side idler shat the biscuit and left me stranded in Brisbane. They are about $80 from Subaru which I think is good value(well necessary value - I was desperate!!)
- DO Swear and curse when you strip all the cover retaining bolt thingies...cable ties are my friend!!
The ticking I had in my EA82 Tourer went away when I changed the oil for a thicker one(went from a 10W30 to a 15W40)along with dropping the oil after 5000km for a year - the ticking is still there from start-up but it goes away after less than a minute(it used to go on for 20 mins and then it would return from time to time on a long trip...say every 30-40 min for a minute or two).
These lifters operate like the cam followers on a mini - they rotate and the little hole is in a different position at any point of time. Air in the pump wont help so it is a good thing to get the pump done while all is out of the way...
Sorry - long winded reply ...
Hooroo
Honestly - if the timing belt is a known mileage and has plenty to go - dont bother.
If you must change it - do it...
However...
- DO the water pump while it is apart if it needs doing(I would do it:) )
- DO the oil pump seals - this will go a long way to short listing the lifter issues(if the seals are a wee bit suss, it let the air in and aerates the oil - which the first stop is after the oil pump is....the lifters and galleries)
- DO check the idler bearings - this is how my timing belt snapped when the passenger side idler shat the biscuit and left me stranded in Brisbane. They are about $80 from Subaru which I think is good value(well necessary value - I was desperate!!)
- DO Swear and curse when you strip all the cover retaining bolt thingies...cable ties are my friend!!
The ticking I had in my EA82 Tourer went away when I changed the oil for a thicker one(went from a 10W30 to a 15W40)along with dropping the oil after 5000km for a year - the ticking is still there from start-up but it goes away after less than a minute(it used to go on for 20 mins and then it would return from time to time on a long trip...say every 30-40 min for a minute or two).
These lifters operate like the cam followers on a mini - they rotate and the little hole is in a different position at any point of time. Air in the pump wont help so it is a good thing to get the pump done while all is out of the way...
Sorry - long winded reply ...
Hooroo
Rob Forsyth
Great tips and that gives me plenty to look at when pulling it apart. So, I will do the belts (unknown vintage), the water pump, pull the oil pump, check the idler bearings, change the oil(probably time to switch to synthetic ?). After all that, if the noise is still there then guess it is the tappet !
Is it worth doing shaft seals while in there ?
Is it worth doing shaft seals while in there ?
You can look at the seals as well - If it has been in situ for a while then I would as a matter of course however not really necessary if not weeping.
Check the cam seals while there and see if they are weeping too
I had a bit of a sleep on it last night and I am wondering - is it a tic tic or a knock knock. I ask as this knock knock which I thought was the lifters was in fact the idler bearing on its way out on the passengers side. It subsequently caused the belt to snap(the belt was wayyyy past its use by date anyhow!!).
The things you wake yourself up for - have to stop thinking cars when I sleep..
Sorry - the synthetic is a good idea as they are recommended for the EA 82 motors. I use the Valvoline semi synth 10/15W40. It is fairly cheap too
Hooroo
Check the cam seals while there and see if they are weeping too
I had a bit of a sleep on it last night and I am wondering - is it a tic tic or a knock knock. I ask as this knock knock which I thought was the lifters was in fact the idler bearing on its way out on the passengers side. It subsequently caused the belt to snap(the belt was wayyyy past its use by date anyhow!!).
The things you wake yourself up for - have to stop thinking cars when I sleep..
Sorry - the synthetic is a good idea as they are recommended for the EA 82 motors. I use the Valvoline semi synth 10/15W40. It is fairly cheap too
Hooroo
Rob Forsyth
Thanks Rob
Will do ! Good advice. I will undertake some exploratory surgery tomorrow as i will be in canberra on Wed, and if parts are needed then i should be able to get some.
It is a tick but a very loud TICK TICK, i am not sure it is quite a knock yet, but it has progressed to a point where hopefully I can find some obvious signs when I look around.
Will do ! Good advice. I will undertake some exploratory surgery tomorrow as i will be in canberra on Wed, and if parts are needed then i should be able to get some.
It is a tick but a very loud TICK TICK, i am not sure it is quite a knock yet, but it has progressed to a point where hopefully I can find some obvious signs when I look around.