EJ Bypass Air Control Valve

85wrx · Post by **85wrx** » Sat Apr 21, 2007 11:08 am

With all the EJ conversions that have been completed, has anyone had one of these fail on them. After completing the conversion code that the computer spits out are 24 & 33. 33 is VSS which is not connected. 24 is related to bypass air control valve. after going through all the testing it seems that there is no resistance between the pins 1 & 3 and the body.

The car still functions O.K. but when it is reset the idle function does not work after driving the car then coming to a stop.

Hopefully someone can help.

SuBaRiNo · Post by **SuBaRiNo** » Sat Apr 21, 2007 1:05 pm

This is a VERY VERY comon problem... i have seen these things totally seized before. You should find that if you remove it and clean it with carby cleaner it should come good. For some reason i still have regualr problems with mine and have to clean it out every 6 months or so.

Dave

stamp_licker · Post by **stamp_licker** » Sat Apr 21, 2007 1:59 pm

AS subarino said .Also check the ignition relay.I had a similar prob ,same codes ,and the ignition relay was puttting out 3 volts on the pins that power the bypass and purge circuit.Cleaned the bypass valve and replaced the relay, all fixed.

85wrx · Post by **85wrx** » Sat Apr 21, 2007 2:27 pm

It seems that the mechanical part of the valve moves freely. When the electrical part on the top is moved it increases/decreases the idle depending on the direction. Unless the vehicle speed sensor not being connected causes this to be an issue.

Checked the voltage and is 12 volts with the correct voltage at the computer pins as well. The problem is the resistance between pins 1&2, 2&3 on the valve is supposed to be 9 ohms and I am getting 10.3 ohms

If it is not functioning correctly and the check engine light is on, will it affect the operation of the engine and fuel efficency?

stamp_licker · Post by **stamp_licker** » Sat Apr 21, 2007 4:11 pm

Jump over to the rsliberty forums and do a search on code 24.There is heaps of info on getting em to work etc.The car will idle high then drop down low to almost stall,at laest that what it did for me.

Suby Wan Kenobi · Post by **Suby Wan Kenobi** » Sat Apr 21, 2007 11:01 pm

They can be a right royal pain in the arse to get right if they have been neglected but usually a good clean up will free up movement. As for the extra resistance are your terminals clean?

Phizinza · Post by **Phizinza** » Sun Apr 22, 2007 11:44 am

85wrx wrote:Checked the voltage and is 12 volts with the correct voltage at the computer pins as well. The problem is the resistance between pins 1&2, 2&3 on the valve is supposed to be 9 ohms and I am getting 10.3 ohms

In my FSM it say between 9 and 11 ohms. 10.3 should be fine. I think that's what mine read.

I have the same problem and I have tried replacing the top piece, bypassing the relay, volts are all good everywhere, Although after a clean it got a little better. So next up is a much better clean. And if that does't help I'll use my second ecu.

subarursliberty · Post by **subarursliberty** » Sun Apr 22, 2007 5:48 pm

I had error code 24 jumping out at me for months and I tried lots to fix it. Cleaning it changing it. Yours does sound like its stuffed or a good clean will fix it. However my issue was the nuteral switch in the gear box not working correctly. Idle would be all over the place and the code would pop its head when ever it felt like it. On boost, Off boost, Changing gears, Cruising not changing gear, Crusing down a hill but never up.