EA82 Timing Belts

Matt · Post by **Matt** » Sun Dec 10, 2006 9:51 pm

How hard are the timing gears to pull off to replace the seals? Also how hard is it to do the timing from unknown condition? Any tricks that aren't in the a Gregories, excluding the cam belt tensionor tool?
Cheers
Matt

fredsub · Post by **fredsub** » Mon Dec 11, 2006 8:04 am

tricks - remove the radiator, it only takes like 5 more minutes and saves your knuckles and you can see what your doing.
if you read the procedure from gregories, a few times, it shouldn't be too hard, its all I used.
If your taking out the oil pump while there, don't forget thers a A and B side to the rotor, you have to look real careful to notice they arean't exactly identical lol.
I guess you mean the cam seals? sorry don't know!
Ah the cam belt tensioner tool, its real handy to make up something like that, makes it so much easier - you only need to hold 2 holes, not 4 like the one in gregories shows.
Ah, when you think your finished, rotate it by hand via the crankshaft, far easier to notice any noises if you done something wrong,
oh and remove the spark plugs - easier to rotate.

Matt · Post by **Matt** » Mon Dec 11, 2006 12:03 pm

Cheers Mate, really all done, cars running put lacking in power which we think could be over tight cam belts. Although it could be the cam belt 1 tooth out but tht would more then likely mean it would run correct?

fredsub · Post by **fredsub** » Mon Dec 11, 2006 2:23 pm

Lack of power sounds like 1or2 tooth out, took me 2 goes to get it right, so don't sweat it.
If its complete lack of power, could be 180deg out maybe...i'm not sure it might still run in that condition? someone else might know.....

Matt · Post by **Matt** » Mon Dec 11, 2006 6:20 pm

Or the ignition timing set wrong!!! I.E about 5-7 degrees out due to the old belt being slightly stretched!!! but got it fixed know. Thanks Again
Matt

ohsuby · Post by **ohsuby** » Mon Dec 18, 2006 12:44 pm

replace the cam seal o rings to thats most of the oil leaks i see its kinda shitty if you are doin it the first time but patients my child...........

Matt · Post by **Matt** » Mon Dec 25, 2006 1:20 pm

I did replace the cam seals and the front main while we were there.

Brumby Boy · Post by **Brumby Boy** » Mon Dec 25, 2006 9:36 pm

you doing some cash jobs while your away? or did you get a new toy for chrissy? lol

Matt · Post by **Matt** » Mon Dec 25, 2006 10:15 pm

Cash jobs i wish..... My little bros "L" series, so you can't really charge them money can you....LOL

Brumby Boy · Post by **Brumby Boy** » Mon Dec 25, 2006 10:25 pm

i do lol
50% off though (family rates lol)

r00fi · Post by **r00fi** » Tue Dec 26, 2006 1:45 pm

fredsub wrote:
If your taking out the oil pump while there, don't forget thers a A and B side to the rotor, you have to look real careful to notice they arean't exactly identical lol.

There's an A and B side to rotor?

oh, oh. I didn't need to hear that....

How do you tell the difference? Which way does it go in?

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Tue Dec 26, 2006 8:12 pm

r00fi wrote:There's an A and B side to rotor?

oh, oh. I didn't need to hear that....

How do you tell the difference? Which way does it go in?

Me neither... i'm starting to wonder which way i put mine back in... could explain why its still leaking oil (apart from the seal being pinched, couldn't get one when i needed it so a bit of high-temp silicone was my friend - i hope...)

And if your cam belt is a tooth out it will run sluggish... two teeth out an your car's a brick especially if its the dissy camshaft (this cam was out two teeth to the drivers side)... I did this after tending to my oil pump, re-timed with the dissy and it ran a little bit better, fixed it when i got home and it runs like the clappers, timing not changed...

180 degrees out and you'll really be pushing a brick to get it moving, swapping leads on the dissy (or twisting the dissy cap 180 degrees) from one side to the other will only change the bank that is firing, performance will not change. It's the most obvious sign for an up-side down cam-shaft.

I hope this helps.

fredsub · Post by **fredsub** » Tue Dec 26, 2006 9:26 pm

well you got a 50/50 chance of getting it right
p81 Gregories "each rotor has an identification mark which should face the rear of the engine"

If you got it wrong, its very ominous when you hand turn the engine - a bugger after just getting the belts lined up, @$!@# what could be wrong??? and have to pull it all down again.
What it sounds like cranking/running? hey ask Fatz, hes done it.

subalex · Post by **subalex** » Fri Jan 05, 2007 10:22 pm

I just replaced the timing belts and the seals for both cams and the crankshaft seal last week. Never had the thing leave a driveway without a deposit since I bought it a couple of years ago and now it's perfect. Made up that cam wheel tool with a bit of plywood, some spare bolts to go through and a jigsaw. Heaps better to be able to use the socket wrench while holding the cam pulley. Just forget about the idea of drilling out the seal as in the Gregory manual. Undo the 2 screws for the cover that the seal sits in and it should all come out easily for you to play with with less damaging tools.

Certainly, lining up those timing marks on the covers makes a substantial difference. They must line up perfectly, near enough isn't good enough. Slide the belt over the cam wheel last for it to work out perfectly.. so long as you have lined the cam pulleys up properly before putting the belts on.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Wed Jan 10, 2007 10:47 pm

that tool, I made one to do my brothers belts years ago then found i did not need it at all - so a little amused at some comments above. But laugh at me when my EA82 goes back together (the block is on the engine stand everybody !!)