Lifting engine in Vortex

Vortex75 · Post by **Vortex75** » Sat May 17, 2014 9:44 pm

Hey, I've got to change my head gaskets on my Vortex but I'm going to have to lift the engine out a bit to get at them. Whats the best way to do this?
Canny

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sat May 17, 2014 10:00 pm

where is that etcha-sketch?

assuming you know best way is to have inlet gear off first, so it is outta the way and you get to fit new gaskets on refit.

While underneath undoing exhaust nuts or studs if they come out with studs, undo both nuts - all 14mm of the engine mount to xmem, and while there keep at the 14mm bolts that hold driver side mount to block and bellhousing, remove that mount.I usually lift engine from above with chains hooked on front hook or PS bracket, engine stay rod bracket at rear.

But, when I managed to remove the exhaust pipe from my EA82T with that RHS mount removed, and no turbo - I didn't have an engine hoist in use. You may not have to lift your engine.. May not have to remove engine pipe from its position, just be able to drop it so studs clear it and can pull heads.

If it is just a welch plug, may just be the cam boxes off after timing belts, lift eng a bit to whack old WP's out, newies in - 20mm from memory

Subydoug · Post by **Subydoug** » Sat May 17, 2014 11:00 pm

I did my vortex hg without pulling the motor out. Just drop the pipe off of the studs as Jonno said and you should be laughing. A 10mm ratchet spanner makes getting the cam tower covers off and on easier.

Regards

Doug

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun May 18, 2014 7:41 am

Love that word 'just'

May as well 'just' EJ it at same time !!
Canny has a spider turbo, so the exhaust don't 'just' drop off . It is a drawn out process, only for the dedicated, not in a hurry types. Sorta starts with undoing and storing the bolt that secures cat to gearbox/tranny, removing stuff to get at the exhuast nuts on the studs at the back of the turbo to soak in CRC556. The spider inlet and all its hoses are a nightmare to first timers. Any distractions, you need to be able to vent at them to go away...

the turbo has an oil drain back hose - score self some new oil resistant hose in 5/8" 16mm about 120mm long to replace it as it will likely be shot after 25 years. The oil supply is a hard line, best not distorted, so turbo is most likely needed to come off, once you pull exhaust off the back of it. Be prepared for stripped threads

Which is why ya really need to just do investigation work to see if it is just a welch plug......

AndrewT · Post by **AndrewT** » Sun May 18, 2014 11:00 am

It would be much easier on a motor separate to the car yes?
It is pretty quick and easy to pull a motor out, I think doing it would make this job easier overall. This gives the opportunity to do other things like rear main oil seal, spigot bearing, thrust bearing etc.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun May 18, 2014 9:31 pm

and buy some new $6 nuts for good measure....the exhaust nuts at back of turbo still available, in an unrounded condition