1993 Liberty speedway car questions

Brett · Post by **Brett** » Tue Feb 11, 2014 9:29 pm

Hi all,

I have just bought a 93 Liberty sedan to use in some speedway events & thought you guys might help me with some questions I have.

When I was moving the air flow metre I found a fuse holder with "FWD" on top (clipped to the drivers side strut on the booster side), I was thinking if you put a fuse in it does it change the car to front wheel drive only? Or should it already have a fuse in it?

What are your thoughts on looking the back diff or do I go to the next tyre up on the front wheels to help with the split in the AWD systum ? I will be driving on a wet dirt/grass track in an oval shape with two small jumps.

Any thoughts would be great.

Cheers & thankyou.
Brett.

Post by **TOONGA** » Tue Feb 11, 2014 9:34 pm

When the fuse is in, it will make the vehicle front wheel drive.

Not sure what you are asking on the tyre question.

TOONGA

Brett · Post by **Brett** » Tue Feb 11, 2014 9:38 pm

TOONGA wrote:When the fuse is in, it will make the vehicle front wheel drive.

Not sure what you are asking on the tyre question.

TOONGA

Thanks TOONGA,

I thought that's what the fuse holder did. I might run it through a switch on the dash in case I get some rear end damage.

Sorry, should I increase the rolling radius of the front tyres & leave the rears the same size? I will also be grooving the tyres into an aggressive tred.

Cheers. Brett.

Post by **TOONGA** » Tue Feb 11, 2014 9:42 pm

Not if you are going to leave the car AWD, if you run it front wheel drive you could get away with it but the Auto wont like it much.

TOONGA

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Wed Feb 12, 2014 1:28 am

Brett wrote:When I was moving the air flow metre I found a fuse holder with "FWD" on top (clipped to the drivers side strut on the booster side), I was thinking if you put a fuse in it does it change the car to front wheel drive only? Or should it already have a fuse in it?

Yes this is to stop the AWD clutch pack engaging AWD. From this I see your car is auto and not really sure if you'd want an auto speedway car??

Brett wrote:What are your thoughts on looking the back diff or do I go to the next tyre up on the front wheels to help with the split in the AWD systum ? I will be driving on a wet dirt/grass track in an oval shape with two small jumps.

If you are keeping the car in AWD, then you'll need all tyres to be the same size or you'll be fighting the car to hold it driving straight. If you keep the FWD fuse in, then you can use different size front and rears without any issue but you'll only have drive to the front wheels

Brett · Post by **Brett** » Wed Feb 12, 2014 7:05 am

RSR 555 wrote:Yes this is to stop the AWD clutch pack engaging AWD. From this I see your car is auto and not really sure if you'd want an auto speedway ??

Thanks for the info. Why I got an auto is we are only allowed to use 1st & 2nd gears, as the auto has a taller 2nd gear than a manual I opted for that.

Cheers. Brett.

vincentvega · Post by **vincentvega** » Wed Feb 12, 2014 1:00 pm

TOONGA wrote:Not if you are going to leave the car AWD, if you run it front wheel drive you could get away with it but the Auto wont like it much.

TOONGA

the auto wont care one bit. you might blow a front diff but unlikely with an EJ22

forget about switches. For this application I would take the rear transfer housing off the box and put some screws through the clutch packs to give you permanently locked 4WD. wheel spin will then not be an issue, but you might hate how it handles. You could weld up the rear diff to induce some oversteer if you want to.

vincentvega · Post by **vincentvega** » Wed Feb 12, 2014 1:02 pm

further thought I have 2 VTD rear ends im trying to get rid of. This will give you a rear biased torque split but lots of grip. Its a fairly straight forward swap but would need to do your research. google VTD

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Wed Feb 12, 2014 11:30 pm

Brett wrote:Thanks for the info. Why I got an auto is we are only allowed to use 1st & 2nd gears, as the auto has a taller 2nd gear than a manual I opted for that.

Cheers. Brett.

No worries Brett

Sorry for being dumb but what is the ratio of 2nd gear in the auto?

Post by **TOONGA** » Sun Feb 16, 2014 10:36 am

RSR 555 wrote:No worries Brett

Sorry for being dumb but what is the ratio of 2nd gear in the auto?

A Better ratio than the manual one ???

auto gear ratios from here https://www.xcceleration.com/4EAT-101.htm

Automatic transmission gear ratios:

1st - 2.785

2nd - 1.545

3rd - 1.000

4th - 0.694

Reverse - 2.272

Final drive ratio - 4.11

Manual gear ratios for an equivilant year subaru 5 speed AWD liberty box

from here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Su ... _Full-Time

5MT

It is notable to mention that only Turbo vehicles received a hydraulic clutch until 1995. Also, in 1998 Subaru changed from a push-style clutch to a pull-style requiring minor bellhousing and fork changes.

Gear Ratios:

1st 3.785

2nd 1.945

3rd 1.500

4th 0.994

5th 0.780/(0.735 WRX)

Final 3.90 / 4.11

As I understand it the libertys and WRX have the 3.90 ratio and the outbacks have the 4.11

TOONGA

NachaLuva · Post by **NachaLuva** » Sun Feb 16, 2014 4:54 pm

If its never going to be driven onroad then +1 to welding the rear diff. Welded diff = awesome grip but no onroad driveability

AFAIK you can do a mod to electronically lock the centre diff (clutch pack) but this might only be on later models. If not then the screw method might be good if it holds together ok

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Sun Feb 16, 2014 5:53 pm

TOONGA wrote:A Better ratio than the manual one ???

IMO the manual has the better ratio

TOONGA wrote:It is notable to mention that only Turbo vehicles received a hydraulic clutch until 1995. Also, in 1998 Subaru changed from a push-style clutch to a pull-style requiring minor bellhousing and fork changes.

Umm.. Need to edit this. There is so many variables in them.

TOONGA wrote:As I understand it the libertys and WRX have the 3.90 ratio and the outbacks have the 4.11

3.9 in the box but 3.454 rear diff ratio

vincentvega · Post by **vincentvega** » Sun Feb 16, 2014 10:21 pm

NachaLuva wrote:If its never going to be driven onroad then +1 to welding the rear diff. Welded diff = awesome grip but no onroad driveability

AFAIK you can do a mod to electronically lock the centre diff (clutch pack) but this might only be on later models. If not then the screw method might be good if it holds together ok

The switch mod is not a lockup. Nowhere near it. Your just telling the transfer clutches to hang on as hard as they can... which is not very hard. Applies to all non vtd boxes nothing to do with late model

Post by **TOONGA** » Sun Feb 16, 2014 10:57 pm

RSR 555 wrote: Umm.. Need to edit this. There is so many variables in them.

Better go to the wikipedia and edit it then, as that is a direct quote from that page I linked to here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Su ... _Full-Time

TOONGA

vincentvega · Post by **vincentvega** » Tue Feb 18, 2014 4:39 pm

I agree that list might be accurate in the US market but way off here.

"Its on the internetz so it must be true!!!!"

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Thu Feb 20, 2014 3:42 pm

TOONGA wrote:Better go to the wikipedia and edit it then, as that is a direct quote from that page I linked to here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Su ... _Full-Time

TOONGA

Wouldn't waste my time.. and like Vincentvega has mentioned.. don't believe everything on the net.