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Hey. First post on these forums, but ive been using them for quite a while. Loads of information here and loads of experienced and smart users

I finally got round to putting the EA82T into the rx coupe, but its not working out as I hoped.

It will start up but only fires for about 4 or 5 seconds before cutting out. It seems to start, run and cut out pretty much the same every time.
I took the trottle body cover off and covered the intake up and the engine ran a bit longer. Maybe 10 or so seconds, which sugests its too lean? But if its that lean why would it start and run for a bit in the first place?

Any ideas??

Cheers

I'd say they'd run richer at startup and then lean out.

was it running before it went into ur coupe?

maf?
timing?
fuel?

Dont know. I bought the motor about 6 months ago with the coupe. It was out of the car so while it was out I thought Id clean it up a bit so when its running I can see leaks better. plus its nicer to work on a clean engine.

If I had to take a guess, Id say the engine hasnt been running for about 3 years, but was running (based on conversations with the guy I bought it off).

Im going to check to see if the injectors are working well tomorrow. Other than that I dont know what else to try (that I havent allready done). Any ideas/thoughts would be great.

id look at Fuel first off.

make sure its a High pressure pump for a start, then look at pressure/flow and if it is still running before the engine dies

Check the condition of your Igntion and fuel relays. It does sound like you have a prime of fuel but once it starts the pump isnt running.

Cheers. Ill check over that tomorrow and report back.
When the key is turned to "ON" I can hear the fuel pump go, only for a few seconds though. Is it supposed to keep going (if key is only turned as far as "ON")?
I had my mate get down by the pump while I turned the engine over but it was to noisy. Ill get the stethoscope out tomorrow and have another crack at it.
This is the first EFI Ive worked on so im a bit in the dark when it comes to these things.

Does it have an immobiliser?
Sounds like what my car was doing and it was to do with the transponder unit. Also check your fuel pump relays...

Ive checked the fuel pump, its working fine.
I lifted the injectors, and only the ones on cylinder 3 and 4 are squirting fuel. which had as all surprised cause when the engine fires it sounds like all 4 are doing it.
I probed the injectors that arnt squirting (1 and 2, front pair) and both have power going to them.
Im going to swap injectors at 1 and 3 and see what happens. Gotta help the old man get some firewood first though.

..hope i havent written the cylinder numbers wrong...

I dont know if it has an immobiliser. Did any RXs come out with them from the factory? There is no visible unit anywhere (like the mongoose one in my mates ute)

I've had this on my RX and it turned out to be the AirFlow Meter... the car would start fine then just die for no reason (no check engine light?) so I had a friend come over with his RX and we just started swapping 1 bit at a time, back and forth until we got to the AFM?? not saying this is your problem but this may help if you find someone with the same model near where you live?

I can now say there must be something wrong with the 2 injectors, Ive swapped wiring around on them but they dont fire, and there is defanitly fuel getting to them. But even still with only two cylinders getting fuel it should surely still be able to run? very badly, sure, but at least keep going.

I dont know anyone in the region I live, or even the whole country that has a turbo rx which is a shame cause it would be handy to have a complete working one around. I think there is another air flow box in the pile of 'spares' that was in the car when i got it so Ill give that a go as well, cheers.

My dash does have the "check engine" light lit. Is there a way to get the trouble code from the ECU?

plug in the little black connectors under the dash on the left hand side of the steering column and RHS of heater box (closer to heater from memory).
Once the connectors are plugged in, your CEL will flash in sequences that will allow you to determine error codes.

Edit, i might be thinking of Gen2 + models. :whoops:
Check the ECU under the dash on the steering column, there is a red LED that will already be flashing with your error codes.
Cheers
remember 1 long flash = 10
1 short flash = 1

Yay! I unplugged the airflow sensor and she ran wonderfully (as wonder as it can on 2 cylinders). Thanks RSR555 for suggesting that, and cheers to everyone for helpin out.

The LED on my ecu is just constantly flashing long flashes. about 1 second on, 1 sec off.

Ronin wrote:Yay! I unplugged the airflow sensor and she ran wonderfully (as wonder as it can on 2 cylinders). Thanks RSR555 for suggesting that, and cheers to everyone for helpin out.

The LED on my ecu is just constantly flashing long flashes. about 1 second on, 1 sec off.

Not a problem, just thought I might be able to keep another Subie on the road

I know that when mine does the quick flashes, it usually means all systems ok

But you need to go through a long process to clear the old codes and then check for new ones...

Check your codes here EA82 MPFI & Turbo ECU Fault Codes

If you plug your MAF back in, does it run ok?

So is it running on 2 cylinders or 4?

Its only running on 2 cylinders. Ive got a couple injectors on the way.

If I plug the MAF back in and cover that ~1" diameter hole in the side of the intake boot it runs the same as not having it plugged in at all. As soon as I open up that hole it cuts out.

Ill try that clearing memory mode and then see if I can get some trouble codes and get that check engine light to bugger off.

Ronin wrote:If I plug the MAF back in and cover that ~1" diameter hole in the side of the intake boot it runs the same as not having it plugged in at all. As soon as I open up that hole it cuts out.

Ah-ha i think we have a solution...

What is this 1" hole you are referring to?

I think the root of your problem is an air leak. If the hole is open, air is being sucked in there and not through the MAF, which means the ECU isnt reading that air and thus not adding enough fuel. When you unplug the MAF, the ECU ignores it and goes into limp mode.

Block all all air leaks and see how you go

when you say the injectors are not working....

you saying you have seen fuel spray from the working ones and not the not working ones?

all injectors have power all ignition on time, it is the earth that switches them on from the ecu (if I am correct)

these injectors are batch fire as in 1,3 fire at the same time, 2,4 fire at the same time as each other - just a few steps better than a throttle body single squirter working for all cylinders. You need to see that the ECU pin is supplying the earth for these injectors not working, then see if that earth is reaching the injectors - if ecu works and not getting to injectors - try your own jumper wire !

I think the injectors are not working because I had them out and ran them all off each connector, one at a time, and only two worked from all connections. The injectors that do work, will work from any connection so the wiring from ECU to injectors must be all tickety boo.

The ~1" hole is on the intake boot (that goes from MAF to Turbo) just after the MAF on the side and pointing directly at the driver. I have no idea what is supposed to be attached to it so Ive just sealed it. It will run by itself now.

I also got the trouble code and got rid of the check engine light (seems I forgot to plug in the knock sensor, that was all)