Brumby A/C, car temp

Malc · Post by **Malc** » Sat Dec 31, 2005 12:41 pm

The airconditioning on the brumby is rather pointless I think. Today it is 38 degrees and i need to run the a/c. Travelling at a constant speed above 60km/h the car seems to hold acceptable temperature, half way between hot and half way. Travelling at 60km/h i almost cooked the car so i definitely have to turn it off when i approach town which i do and end up all sweaty. Plus its not good when i have carry a passenger.

Does anybody else have this problem? How do I upgrade the cooling system? Practical/Cheap?

Redback · Post by **Redback** » Sat Dec 31, 2005 1:21 pm

No - But then I don't own a Brumby: Maybe with a few mods you could run the more efficient Lib air con.

K

BaronVonChickenPants · Post by **BaronVonChickenPants** » Sat Dec 31, 2005 5:39 pm

I share your pain, anything above 26-28 degrees and the car overheats with the aircon on, I'm about to attempt some work on the wiring for my fans, followed by removing and checking my water pump and thermostat, failing any of that helping twin core radiator is next on the list.

Jordan.

Ben · Post by **Ben** » Sat Dec 31, 2005 6:31 pm

Common problem when cars get old - their radiators clog and rot etc. Get a new radiator and you'll be good again.

Driving my L around today, albeit without a/c, I didn't get above halfway and the fans took care of it over that...

stinky · Post by **stinky** » Sat Dec 31, 2005 8:18 pm

Yeah I think I'm due for a new radiator ... travelling over 80km/h in summer causes it to get to a temp that I'm not comfortable with. I took it in and good the radiator flushed etc at the end of last summer but it still does it. the ea81t is probably a warmer engine than the std too.

I do have an ej18 radiator, I wonder how hard it would be to put in there. Probably need a fair bit of work.

MUDRAT · Post by **MUDRAT** » Sat Dec 31, 2005 10:14 pm

Ok, bog stock standard MY Glf runs perfectly fine with both fans online, 42 degrees here today. The radiator is fresh and the AC has just been re-gassed with the new ozone-layer friendly (apparently

) gas.

The cabin's cool, engine sits at 3/8ths on the highway and dead on halfway in town. I was stopped at some roadworks the other day and the temp needle just crept over half and stayed there.

So . . . my theory is that if you've got a good radiator and some fresh gas everything should be sweet.

Post by **yarney** » Wed Jan 04, 2006 6:44 pm

I've got a brumby when i put the ac on it cools down to quarter very strange!!!! i also got a l series its like your brumby goe's up to 3 quarters have looked at w/ pump, thermostat cleaned out radiator and enging block and have got 2 thurmo fans think i should get a 3 core radiator should work.
Jan

BaronVonChickenPants · Post by **BaronVonChickenPants** » Wed Jan 04, 2006 6:52 pm

I'm about to attempt a DIY triple flow radiator, if all goes to plan then I'll put up a how to with plenty pictures.

Jordan.

subanator · Post by **subanator** » Thu Jan 05, 2006 12:22 am

I ran my a/c today, first time in a couple of weeks as we have had such a mild summer in Perth.
I have a year old standard radiator (brand new then) in my My wagon, and it usually will hover the 1/2 way mark at hwy speed or lower. The a/c clutch bearing is on its way out, so I dont know how long it will last.
Even with a weber and running 14deg adv (which makes it run a little warmer) I have no worries using the a/c when running, however I do cut it out when at lights etc and when accelerating the EA81!. I also have a manual fan switch also which helps maintain cooling for slow running.

The trick with any cooling system is efficiency by heat transfer, even with a bigger core radiator wont cool any better if the flow across it is poor or restricted, and that the fan air flow is poor or restricted also. Spotties on the front bar will block a lot of air flow.

Another tip is always use demineralised water or distilled water with coolant concentrate - never tap water. Rain water is ok too. Flush out your system and replenish the coolant yearly or there abouts. All this will keep the system free of contaminates and corrosion, and the water pump more efficient. Check the thermostat is opening fully or get one that opens earlier in the heat range.

Hope this helps.

KERRY · Post by **KERRY** » Thu Jan 05, 2006 11:10 am

I have renewed the radiator, but not a twin core, replaced thermostat and water pump, new coolant and put a switch from the electric fan on the dash to make sure it is on when the temperature demands it.

The only time mine overheats now is when I am grinding through soft sand at speeds below 40kph, on a hot day, and then I just switch off the air for a while and she goes straight back to normal.

I should have upgraded radiator to twin core, but did not know they were available at the time. I have not considered the compressor may have some extra drag due to bearings, I will now look into that.

You really need your air on a hot day when travelling below 40kph through soft hot sand, I can tell you that atleast.

smudge1 · Post by **smudge1** » Sun Feb 12, 2006 8:54 am

I have a summary of all the overheating probs mentioned I have removed the thermostat which has helped a bit but the car still uses a lot of water I was thincking of a surge tank like what they got on dem new fangled cars I like the idea of a twin core rad though so how does one go about getting one is there a part no or a specific type ect

gemery10 · Post by **gemery10** » Fri Feb 24, 2006 11:33 pm

I had same issue, blew head gasket eventually! Replaced radiator at same time and installed switch to put thermofan on with a/c. Gets a little above half uphill in 40 deg but otherwise not too bad. A/C fair kills the power though

with new rad. I ran at 120 with a/c on all day and it didn't get over 3/8 until 40deg in really dead wind area (monto) man that place is hot