Please help going insane!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

suby87 · Post by **suby87** » Sun Mar 09, 2008 5:48 pm

Hey guys
I have some serious probs this 89 MPFI L series is killing me. I have done the head gasket and got the heads checked put it all back together. After a few minor screw ups on my behalf got it started. It ran terrible rough as guts. Check the codes and it told me that the egr was in fault pulled it off cleaned it and noticed the the hose going into it was lose so fixed. Cleared code. Still running rough. When rev it hesitates for a few seconds the reves lumpy. So thats all fine drove it up and down the yard a few times then the nightmare began. It started to belch smoke out of the top of the cat and a lot. Plus its leaking water from the front around the bolt that goes into the head to drain water and its tight but there is still water there and out of the front cam belt housing. Also there is oil leaking from the rear of the engine but can't tell where its coming from. But the oil level has not dropped in the engine or gear box. Plus the scary thing is that the cat was glowing on the inside. Just able to see it through the side. This car is killing me four weeks of nothing but trouble with this thing. Any ideas would be helpful as I am at my wits end, about to throw match in petrol tank and walk away.
Cheers Kris

D3V1L · Post by **D3V1L** » Sun Mar 09, 2008 5:52 pm

the cat is blocked...without a doubt

maybe when the engine came out u dropped the cat and broke it up...if its glowing red then its definetly a source

if its blocked it will cause the motor to run rough as guts as its not allowing air to escape through the exhaust...as for the oil and water leaks i cant offer any suggestions

is timing right and all that?

dave

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Sun Mar 09, 2008 6:01 pm

Yeah id check if your timing belts are installed incorrectly or maybe one has skipped a tooth, that will cause a very unsteady idle.

As for the cat, after a heavy acceleration, driving up a hill at full throttle ect, its normal for them to glow, but if its glowing after a few miniuts of idle, either your ecu is injecting too much fuel (buy some electrical contact cleaner and clean your MAF) or the CAT it rooted

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Mon Mar 10, 2008 11:19 am

What has already been said above ^ + to really shatter the cat's inners get a hammer and a block of wood or a brick, hold brick on one side of cat (top or bottom) and hit with hammer on the other side. Works best if removed from car, this way you can shake all the broken guts out rather than wait for it to rattle/be pushed out. Alternatively going 4wdin and hitting it on a big rock will do the same (I've got experience with this)...

The water you're talking about could be from the water pump gasket leaking or the O ring on the intake pipe to the water pump - i re-use the o-ring (i hear cringing as i type this...) with some high temp silicone to help seal it. With the drain bolt replace the aluminum O ring on there - these are a "crush" washer that helps seal the hole. Maybe try some high temp silicone on there first if in a rush (and no, i am not endorsing regular use of high temp silicone or any particular brand, nor am I collecting a commission

). My drain bolts have all snapped off when i try to take them out to drain the coolant - that's how they live now...

Currently i have some time off uni after easter, if you want me to come down and check it out i'd be happy to help out. I'm guessing you'd want the car going before then though...

Let me know.

Cheers

Bennie

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Mon Mar 10, 2008 4:41 pm

El_Freddo wrote: to really shatter the cat's inners get a hammer and a block of wood or a brick

As i was reading that, i started to think to myself "this guy is a weirdo"... and then realised what he was refering to

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Mon Mar 10, 2008 9:48 pm

Suparoo wrote:As i was reading that, i started to think to myself "this guy is a weirdo"... and then realised what he was refering to

Thanks Gannon, I'm not as weird as i may sound on here, i promise! Glad you got the message though, I wouldn't want the RSPCA knocking on my door - I have a lot more respect for animals than i do exhausts (have I just offended the EPA now?)...

Bennie

suby87 · Post by **suby87** » Sun Mar 16, 2008 5:08 pm

Hey Guys I have violated either the RSPCA or EPA and beaten the cat out. So that solved some of the problem. The ECU is now reporting two error codes the EGR valve which I believe is due to a hose that is not connected. (see photo one below)
Is this hose supposed to be connected to the intake hose. If so, what do i do with the hose that I think comes from the auto (see photo two below). I plugged it in here and it seems to run better.
The other error code is the speed senor this runs off the dash correct? If so could this be because I have not connected the speedo cable to the gearbox? Also is there anything else that has to be done to the ECU (4plug MPFI) when converting auto to manual.

Photo One

Photo Two

This car is sending me up the wall. I have been fighting with it for almost two months now. I can tell you guys the first weekend out its going to cope the flogging of its life. Who's up for It?
Cheers

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Sun Mar 16, 2008 7:23 pm

That small hose coming from the EGR soleniod connects to one of the metal pipes on the fuel rail, follow the metal pipe back from the EGR valve and you will know what one. But that wont cause the error code, your problem is electrical.

As for the speed sensor, it will throw an error code until the speed sensor moves. So if the speedo cable isnt connected, connect it then drive a few meters. That should clear it

suby87 · Post by **suby87** » Wed Mar 19, 2008 7:02 am

Hey
Like I asked in the above questions but could be this causing the to have very little acceleration and it keeps backfiring through the air box as you take off. once it gets moving it seems to have bit of power nothing like my carby one. I am going to clean the PCV and fix one of the PCV hoses that is to big, change the fuel filter and spry a heap of throttle body cleaner down its guts. I think I might even change the O2 sensor. Will any of these be causing this problem I want to see this car go because I have spent a hell of a lot of money on setting this one up in the way of accessories and maintanice. I will post pics once its all done. Any help would be help full as I am and the end of my knowledge about to send it to a mechanic.
Cheers Kris

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Wed Mar 19, 2008 7:45 am

EGR code on mine (3/87 flapper efi turbo)- further investigation found the electric solenoid that controls the opening and closing vacuum supply (found towards firewall from thermostat housing with two wires)to the canister on the EGR valve was rooted, so too one spare, another working solenoid fixed it . Easy to bench test with a battery of 12 volts. The EGR valve itself may be stuck open all the time if the switch is stuck on giving vacuum to EGR canister constantly not just when it needs to be.. Tried disconnecting the vac supply to the EGR canister and plug thevac hose back to solenoid? I plated up my EGR in an effort to fix a problem that is something else.

Me do not think PCV hoses can cause your probs (but I have bin wrong before)

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Wed Mar 19, 2008 7:49 am

No speedo connected ? Yep. I'd say that'd be that code sorted.

Also , there is a procedure in using the test mode with my 3 plug ecu jumper wires. If it is not followed it will/may throw extra codes unnecessarily.

If you have time can you list how you did your ecu test?

suby87 · Post by **suby87** » Wed Mar 19, 2008 6:01 pm

the procedure i used was plug the black wire together and watched the lights is there another way. By the way most of the problem seems to be solved just feels a bit sluggish on take off and if you put the foot in it seems to struggle real bad but I'm not sure if this is because its A)Low on fuel and B)The injectors may be partially clogged with junk.
Cheers and thanks for all the help it will be great to have this car back.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Wed Mar 19, 2008 6:16 pm

Kris, I'm guessing this is a different car to the L that you took 4wd'n with me last year, not a conversion?

If its still feeling sluggish it could be a vacuum leak or a dodgy fuel pump or a blocked fuel filter...

If you could give us exact details of what L it is and what you know has been done to this L, it could hold a clue for some one...

Cheers

Bennie

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Wed Mar 19, 2008 7:01 pm

Have a read of this
showthread.php?t=9347

Should help you a bit

suby87 · Post by **suby87** » Wed Mar 19, 2008 7:20 pm

Hey Benny
Its was a 1989 MPFI NA auto, but now its a 89 MPFI NA manual. L series.
What has been done:
Head gaskets
Heads checked and shaved
All new front seals (oil, water, camshafts)
Rear main seal
New timing belts
New fuel Filter
New Spark plugs and leads
Cleaned Dizzy Cap and Rotor
Cleaned PCV system
3" lift Kit
Auto to manual conversion
Bashed out cat(maybe bashed a bit too much)
New ball joints and Tie rod ends
New front pads
I think thats it for mechanicals, the acceories list is a lot longer close to $3500.
Cheers

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Wed Mar 19, 2008 9:41 pm

Sounds like it'll be a sweet L once this problem's sorted.

The auto box - was this one of those 4EAT units? I believe these were controlled by the ECU to a degree... Did you change the ECU to a "N/A manual" one?
Is there any difference in the wiring of the two ECU's?

I'm wondering if the ECU is waiting for some response from the Auto box before giving the engine the juice.

Dunno if this is correct or not, anyone know better?

Cheers

Bennie

suby87 · Post by **suby87** » Thu Mar 20, 2008 6:36 am

Hey Benny
No it was a 3 speed auto. But I think you might be onto something. Thats what I have thought all long. Anyone out there that can shed any light on this point.
Does the ECU need a signal from the auto to put the juice in or is there a pin that has to be grounded to tell the ECU its manual now?
Cheers

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Thu Mar 20, 2008 10:31 am

I dunno if the 3 spd was controlled by the ECU in any way.

Check over all the vacuum lines, I know that when there's one off/got a hole/missing completely that they idle lumpy (or missing), they lag when you accelorate and are generally under powered. It may also run hot.

Good move on the 5 spd, two thumbs up to that one mate!

Cheers

Bennie

Gannon · Post by **Gannon** » Thu Mar 20, 2008 2:43 pm

The 3 speed had no TCU. It was all mechanical. (except for the electronic/hydraulic clutch for the 4WD)

The ECU doesnt care what tranny you have behind it. Its the TCU of the 4EAT that needs signals from the engine ECU for correct operation

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Thu Mar 20, 2008 9:25 pm

So where to now?

Any changes/thoughts Kris?

Bennie

PS happy easter!