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Greetings

The previous owners in there misguided wisdom applied there own window tinting, by the looks of the job it was done at night and blind folded. The rear quarter windows were so bad it just flaked of with little effort but the door windows are a touch more stuborn and the rear gate window heater elements have been covered. The tinting is bubbling badly so I'd rather have no tinting at all, has anyone any advise on easy removal of the unsightly mess.

Thanks
Kaffine

When we had our car re tinted took it to a tint shop and had them do it. Set me back about $60.00. They will probably say that the rear demister won't work again, but sometimes you can just get lucky.

I took mine off with a razon/glass scraper. You will nedd some force just be careful not to scratch the glass itself.

Yeah that's what I've used in the past as well, you could also try a Stanley knife blade.

the best and only proper way of removing old tint is with the use of a steam gun.

best to hire one, though there are some cheap ones on the market these days.

Hey All

Thanks for the tips. Being the cheapscape I am I borrowed some of your advise and my GF's high performance hairdryer and seem to be making some headway (excuse the pun). I found that if you heat up the tint then use a scaper to remove it, it cuts down a good amount of effort but tends to cook the fingers abit. I haven't attempted the rear window with the heater strips yet but I've heard that mild amonia sprayed on it then covered with a garbage bag to let the amonia infuse its way into the glue can work wonders, I shall be attempting this on the weekend as well as the ball joint replacement. I shall keep you upto date on the progress. I'm trying to get the wagon ready for the Christmas trip down to Dunsborough for some R&R for a few days. Altho I fail to see how 3.5 hrs there and back of kids asking..are we there yet? are we there yet? I need to go to the toilet. not to mention the fighting ,crying and complaining. Thank god for the bootleg brewery and the plethora of winerys to dull the senses...HOHOHOHO

chat soon

for a long trip and kids do what we have done get one of those little portable dvd players.. when we drove over for the bbq a couple of years ago we had a portable tv, sony 2 and invertor... did the trick Mike and i had a lovely quite trip over to the north east kept the kids amused for days not to mention all of us sitting in the middle of no where in the tent watching movies

Take Care

Shorty

carby cleaner in a spray can , but watch the interior materials

All bar the Passenger window stripped then comes the rear heated window. wish me luck..

STOP!!!!!!!!!!!!

the best way to remove old crappy tint.

Go get some

1.cheap Ar$e window cleaner from a cheap shop wiht ammonia in it.
2. some garbage bags.

Spray the window tint with the cleaner until its covered.

place the plastic bag on the tint so the window stays damp.

come back in 1/2 hr and the glue will be melted and it will just peel off easy. Clean up the left over with the same spray/razors.

your demister will work if you so this

Hey Andrew

Thanks for the tip it worked wonders but unfortunately most of the demister lines have been broken. I had to barely use the blade so i suspect they were gone well before I started. Any Ideas on were to get a new demister strip to replace it before I get the Limo tint put on?


Tanx
Kaffine

yeah makes it really easy eh

i had a lib with well stuck on purple tint. couldnt peel it off. found the above solution on the net...

works a treat

You can get bottles of silver paint for repairing those defrost lines.

Jordan.

You can buy ( from some auto parts outlets) a demister repair kit.
I have used it and works well. You use a special tape, similar to a fine edged masking tape,(on top and bottonm edges, a mil or two apart - forming the new contuctive strip) paint on a special conductive compound paint. Wait 30 seconds, apply another tape over the top, use a plastic scraper and smooth out any bumps in the paint.
Wait 4 hours ( as I remember,) remove the top tape, then remove the 2 forming tapes (I also found that a knife blade run along the edge cut any remaining thickness) You now have a fully functional conductive repair. If done carefully, you cant even tell it's been repaired.
Kit was around $15 bucks, a few years back. Once opened, the compound only had a shelf life of a week or so.

No, I don't remember where I got it, but it was from a retail auto spares place, like Supacheap, Repco etc.