L series rear axle wont come off stubs!

ToyRX · Post by **ToyRX** » Mon Aug 13, 2007 6:16 am

As above,

LHS half shaft came out no worries, I have dropped the diff to the ground and cant for the life of me get the RHS halfshaft to release from either diff or hub spline, they seem to have bound up nicely, any handy hints to loosen them up??

Suba · Post by **Suba** » Mon Aug 13, 2007 10:05 am

Try a bit of heat first , then a BFH, also try some CRC lubericant for a rew days first.

Mike.

AndrewT · Post by **AndrewT** » Mon Aug 13, 2007 10:24 am

Yer definitely do the above....it will be rusted on no doubt.
Also try unbolting the diff and letting it come down, will give you move room to move and manuver things around.

BlackMale · Post by **BlackMale** » Mon Aug 13, 2007 10:35 am

Your only other option (other then above) will be to place a piece of timber on the cv cup itself (I would suggest the actual cup as well not the lip or you’ll bend it) and then knock that with the hammer rotate the cup and repeat and It should slide off with some luck. You could try some lube (ie WD40 type produce) down the roll pin hole as well to aid in the process.

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Mon Aug 13, 2007 2:16 pm

Also make sure you've got the WHOLE pin out of the diff stub... i had a pin spread open on me and it got stuck in the centre of the diff stub - which is hollow. It was a bitch to get out - and that CV was also rusted to the stub, it was a fun day.

Cheers

ToyRX · Post by **ToyRX** » Mon Aug 13, 2007 2:22 pm

Thanks guys,

I have some CRC down the pin holes now, I have already dropped the diff on the ground to help.
I have also removed the brake disk and used a big punch and 4lb hammer to beat the snot out of the CV cup, rotate and beat again.... to no avail.

I either need a BFH and a helping hand or some heat me thinks. Not worried about the heat with the wheel bearing as it is being replaced anyway but will the heat effect the LSD or the CV or will I just get away with repacking the CV's??

Post by **Alex** » Mon Aug 13, 2007 2:48 pm

heat is your friend...even just boiling water can be enough.

alex

AndrewT · Post by **AndrewT** » Mon Aug 13, 2007 2:55 pm

If your replacing the bearings then that means your going to be knocking the stub axel out of the hub. Should be able to remove the stub and the half shaft as one unit then.
Rather than all this messing around it might be worth grabbing another stub axel and half shaft from a wreck and just put those in.

I guess that doesn't solve the problem of separating the half shaft from your diff, but maybe you might have more luck with that end with it all compeltely out of the car.

BlackMale · Post by **BlackMale** » Mon Aug 13, 2007 3:19 pm

Bummer about the hit and rotate method. You should only be heating the cup not the entire diff (there should not be that much heat transfer from the cv to the stub to the internals of the diff) so the LSD/oil should be fine.

Alternatively as Andrew suggested take the entire unit out and worst case scenario a cv place would only charge you a few buck at most to remove.

ToyRX · Post by **ToyRX** » Fri Aug 24, 2007 5:42 am

Just an update - Benzomatic and BFH solved the problem!

Suba · Post by **Suba** » Fri Aug 24, 2007 7:41 pm

Good to hear.

Mike.