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Ok this is my understanding, please correct me if im wrong.

When setting the timing for a EA82. The fly wheel has to be on TDC (middle of 3 marks, not ignition timing), and the left hand cam (passenger side) pin has to be pointing at the timing mark on the timing cover (top), then you turn the flywheel 360o clockwise (with the LHS belt now on),
Then you turn the RHS cam so that pin is face the top timing cover. Put that belt on, then turn the flywheel over a few times to make sure the belts haven't slipped a few teeth, then once that is done, time the flywheel (in my case 20oBTDC) and allign the rotor in the dissy to spark plug one. (When the LHS cam pin is facing up at the timing covers)
Ok i have a few questions...

When alligning the LHS cam, how do i know that it is on the ignition stroke, or the exhaust stoke? (same as RHS).. Does it matter. Or can i just randomly put the pin "up".

Im asking this because i changed my oil pump, and re-timed the car last night, but now when i start the car, it runs REALLY rough, and stalls very quickly.
I have changed timing belts b4, and never had problems, but it was a while ago, so maybe im timing it wrong or missing something major? (like TDC or some alligning error?)
Any help would be muchly appreciated..
Thankyou
Adam

also when timing... does it have to be when the LHS pin is closer to up, or right?
i have also checked my vacuum hoses and maf

YESSSSS>!!!!! about 5 more hours mucking around and she is running:):):):):):)
just gotta get the timing light on her. and shell be good as new...
wewt..
bout bloody time

Well, it probably doesn't matter now, but to answer one of your questions, when you line up the centre of the three belt timing marks on the EA82, NO cylinder is at TDC - this is a common misconception. All pistons are at half-stroke in this configuration.

If you didnt pull your dizzy off the cam carrier it should have fired up first go when the cam timing was done. What ended up being the problem??

hey big guy i wuz jawin to a subyroo mechanic he said to replace oil pump seals/oil pick up seals/cam box seals then you may get rid of the tic tic tic .yours freely me

that position and marking is very clever so you are not fighting the valve springs tension.

tic tic tic has all gone now micus;)

I had this same issue when i was trying to get ruby scoo going after replacing the head gaskets... it took me three months to figure it out...

Turned out that i had one camshaft 180 degrees out because we read the manual as lining BOTH camshafts up with the middle of three marks on the crankshaft without lining one up then rotating the camshaft 360 degrees... the wording was really dodgy and it took my sisters car (also head gasket replacement) to show up with the same problem after being put back together that i finally worked out what it was... I got so excited that i forgot to tighten up the cam bolts on the RH bank (car's rhs) creating a huge ticking noise like a ball bearing bouncing around in one of the cylinders... after about 5 minutes of gentle revving (to see if something would come out the exhaust) it went rattle rattle clunk. Two of the bolts had snapped and the cam gear was majorly ovaled on its bolt holes.
After replacing the cam gear and removing the leftover of the bolts from the cam, and double checking tension she started first go and there was no noise... Its been relatively smooth sailing so far, except for the "pick-a-part" engine is showing signs of oil ring wear