2010 Forester Diesel Dash Lights On

Having issues with your ride ? Ask away in here ...
User avatar
RSR 555
Elder Member
Posts: 6951
Joined: Sat Nov 10, 2007 10:42 am
Location: ATM... stuck in Rockingham

2010 Forester Diesel Dash Lights On

Post by RSR 555 » Sat Apr 07, 2018 9:55 pm

Hi peps,

Been doing some searches but to no avail. This issue we have is with my daughter's Foz. It has 3 warning lights displaying on the dash.

1) Check Engine light
2) Vehicle Dynamic Control light
3) Diesel Particulate Filter light which is flashing.

Also the Cruise Control isn't working and the engine will not rev over 3,200RPM. I took the car for a drive the other day and found the boost wasn't like it usually is. I could hear some boost leak, so looking at all the intercooler pipes, we found the 70mm pipe between the intercooler and throttle body had a split in it. We replaced this today and then took the car for a drive. The boost is back until the car hits 3,200RPM but all the warning lights are still on.

The DPF light has come on and off (never flashing) quite regularly but this time it come on flashing without any warning. Reading the owner's manual, it says we need to take it to the dealer. Is this our only option or can we try something else first?

I read somewhere that if the DPF light is flashing the DPF requires a forced regen. Can this be done with a Snap-On Modis?

Any tips or advise would be much appreciated.

Cheers,
Paul
You know you are getting old when the candles on your birthday cake start to cost more than the cake itself.

RSR Performance
Home of the 'MURTAYA' in Oz
Subaru Impreza WRX based Sportscar
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

Disclaimer: Not my website but hyperlink here to Subaru workshop manuals

User avatar
pitrack_1
Junior Member
Posts: 319
Joined: Wed Mar 02, 2011 1:16 am
Location: ACT

Post by pitrack_1 » Sat Apr 07, 2018 10:37 pm

(sigh...)

0) I would suggest don't drive the car any further...yet. YOU NEED TO READ THE OBD-II ERROR CODES BEFORE GOING FURTHER.

1) Good on you for catching the split in the pipe. Check all of 'em, elbows, hoses, pipes, joints for looseness etc. and replace where possible/necessary with silicone ones.

2) DPF light on solid usually means regen required (non-critical). DPF light flashing can mean a multitude, such as oil dilution level, DPF beyond normal regen ability, others

3) The DPF + DSC + CEL lights usually signify a particular issue... not sure/can't remember what. The cruise being off is another telltale and I was told by a dealer that's to also "encourage people to bring the vehicle in" (not such a bad thing in my view)

4) The 3200rpm limit I've only hit when I've put the car in limp mode with some BAAAAAAAD OBD-II protocol mismatch. This is likely to indicate something critical with the system, likely DPF overload.

5) There's LOTS you can do or others can do:

5a) Firstly a Snap-On tool is likely to be a great option. It will likely read the current codes, past codes, pending codes, permanent codes, the errors, the parameters AND allow you to execute various tasks such as forced regen and injector relearning (and maybe DPF relearning). Just looking it up...you &*$(#^ I wish I had one of those! Plug it in for *#^ sake!!! I hope it will also run procedures such as forced regens.

5b) Get yourself an android device, Torque Pro ($US5 or so and yes it needs to be the bought version) and an OBD-II bluetooth dongle and get my parameters either somewhere on here or from my thread elsewhere. Check the DPF soot level.

If its >65% it needs a regen. I think >85% means regen NOW (and likely light on) and >100% gets the flashing light and >135% means likely dead DPF (limp mode, flashing DPF light & CEL on).

For oil dilution, above 10% means oil needs changing and the parameter needs resetting (there is a manual way as well). A forgotten oil dilution reset after an oil change will result in this triggering. Also check the oil level- if overfull, there's possibly more trouble.

5c) A good modern diesel mechanic should be able to help.

5d) The overfull DPF (if so) does not neccessarily mean it's not retrievable- you need a good diesel mechanic (or even piossibly NATRAD nowadays as in one NATRAD in Canberra cleans DPFs). There are also additive that can assist with soot burn off and/or DPF cleaning.

5e) The other possible fill is ash (soot which won't burn, like the ash in a campfire). I think this is unlikely.

5f) YOU NEED TO READ THE OBD-II ERROR CODES BEFORE GOING FURTHER! (have I said this before...you don't want a terminal DPF soot level)

6) Look at subdiesel's site for more info, such as the following pages:
* OBD-II definitions for Subaru diesels (for Torque Pro) and another link to the main definitions page therein
* DPF Info. Note details further down about >170% DPF soot and extended forced regen levels.
* Boxer diesel info

Let me know how it goes, I'll keep an eye out for posts daily.
Patrick
Ex- 2010 Forester Diesel

User avatar
RSR 555
Elder Member
Posts: 6951
Joined: Sat Nov 10, 2007 10:42 am
Location: ATM... stuck in Rockingham

Post by RSR 555 » Sat Apr 07, 2018 11:32 pm

pitrack_1 wrote:(sigh...)
Hi Patrick, sorry mate but I know how you feel (but please don't sigh.. TOONGA does this all the time and I want to slap him every time he does it ;) ) but I'm sure you've read these sort of issues too many times and sick of typing. I was going to get my head around this Diesel diagnostics stuff when Danielle first brought this car but it's been working great after we did the injectors and clutch.
pitrack_1 wrote:0) I would suggest don't drive the car any further...yet. YOU NEED TO READ THE OBD-II ERROR CODES BEFORE GOING FURTHER.
Sorry forgot to mention that we did this and the only code we got was P1469 (pending) and would not clear. I'm guessing because the fault has not been repaired??? Also the DPF light flashes even without the engine running.. is this normal? I've not seen this on any other of my Subarus.
pitrack_1 wrote:1) Good on you for catching the split in the pipe. Check all of 'em, elbows, hoses, pipes, joints for looseness etc. and replace where possible/necessary with silicone ones.
Thanks. We did repaired the turbo to intercooler one about 3 years ago. We cut the oil damaged section at the turbo and used a silicone hose over the top of the hard plastic section. We are servicing the car every 5k and fix/repair anything that doesn't look right as soon as we see them.
pitrack_1 wrote:2) DPF light on solid usually means regen required (non-critical). DPF light flashing can mean a multitude, such as oil dilution level, DPF beyond normal regen ability, others
Yeah, I read this in the owner's manual but as you know, these are only a brief description and they prefer you take the car back to them. I'm fully qualified and have been repairing Subaru cars since the late 80s but this is the first time I've not been able to diagnose the issue.
pitrack_1 wrote:3) The DPF + DSC + CEL lights usually signify a particular issue... not sure/can't remember what. The cruise being off is another telltale and I was told by a dealer that's to also "encourage people to bring the vehicle in" (not such a bad thing in my view)
Fully understand but I'd prefer to try and diagnose the issue first. If I cannot sort it out, I will take it to them but I'm hoping this is my last resort.
pitrack_1 wrote:4) The 3200rpm limit I've only hit when I've put the car in limp mode with some BAAAAAAAD OBD-II protocol mismatch. This is likely to indicate something critical with the system, likely DPF overload.
Ok. By "DPF overload" I'm guessing you're saying that the DPF is semi/partial blocked with soot?
pitrack_1 wrote:5) There's LOTS you can do or others can do:

5a) Firstly a Snap-On tool is likely to be a great option. It will likely read the current codes, past codes, pending codes, permanent codes, the errors, the parameters AND allow you to execute various tasks such as forced regen and injector relearning (and maybe DPF relearning). Just looking it up...you &*$(#^ I wish I had one of those! Plug it in for *#^ sake!!! I hope it will also run procedures such as forced regens.

5b) Get yourself an android device, Torque Pro ($US5 or so and yes it needs to be the bought version) and an OBD-II bluetooth dongle and get my parameters either somewhere on here or from my thread elsewhere. Check the DPF soot level.

If its >65% it needs a regen. I think >85% means regen NOW (and likely light on) and >100% gets the flashing light and >135% means likely dead DPF (limp mode, flashing DPF light & CEL on).

For oil dilution, above 10% means oil needs changing and the parameter needs resetting (there is a manual way as well). A forgotten oil dilution reset after an oil change will result in this triggering. Also check the oil level- if overfull, there's possibly more trouble.

5c) A good modern diesel mechanic should be able to help.

5d) The overfull DPF (if so) does not neccessarily mean it's not retrievable- you need a good diesel mechanic (or even piossibly NATRAD nowadays as in one NATRAD in Canberra cleans DPFs). There are also additive that can assist with soot burn off and/or DPF cleaning.

5e) The other possible fill is ash (soot which won't burn, like the ash in a campfire). I think this is unlikely.

5f) YOU NEED TO READ THE OBD-II ERROR CODES BEFORE GOING FURTHER! (have I said this before...you don't want a terminal DPF soot level)
Ok.. Ok.. Ok.. sorry I've never seen or played with DPF regen stuff on the Modis. I will download the section on it and have a read. Cheers
pitrack_1 wrote:6) Look at subdiesel's site for more info, such as the following pages:
* OBD-II definitions for Subaru diesels (for Torque Pro) and another link to the main definitions page therein
* DPF Info. Note details further down about >170% DPF soot and extended forced regen levels.
* Boxer diesel info
Will do mate. Thanks
pitrack_1 wrote:Let me know how it goes, I'll keep an eye out for posts daily.
No probs and will definitely be back with updates.
You know you are getting old when the candles on your birthday cake start to cost more than the cake itself.

RSR Performance
Home of the 'MURTAYA' in Oz
Subaru Impreza WRX based Sportscar
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

Disclaimer: Not my website but hyperlink here to Subaru workshop manuals

User avatar
pitrack_1
Junior Member
Posts: 319
Joined: Wed Mar 02, 2011 1:16 am
Location: ACT

Post by pitrack_1 » Sun Apr 08, 2018 12:35 am

RSR 555 wrote:Hi Patrick, sorry mate but I know how you feel (but please don't sigh.. TOONGA does this all the time and I want to slap him every time he does it ;) ) but I'm sure you've read these sort of issues too many times and sick of typing. I was going to get my head around this Diesel diagnostics stuff when Danielle first brought this car but it's been working great after we did the injectors and clutch.
Sorry... I was afraid you'd take it taht way... by "sigh" I meant "Sigh, another person caught in the DPF trap!"

RSR 555 wrote: Sorry forgot to mention that we did this and the only code we got was P1469 (pending) and would not clear. I'm guessing because the fault has not been repaired??? Also the DPF light flashes even without the engine running.. is this normal? I've not seen this on any other of my Subarus.
P1469 is overfull DPF soot (>135%... don't drive!) and it's diesel specific. Once logged I believe it might stay until the "DPF is replaced".

See Subdiesel DPF management page (2 refs on the page, one for the code and one for the extended compulsory DPF regen)

It may want a new DPF so if you can't do the extended regen you will likely need to trigger a DPF reinstall sequence (so it can measure the pressure, etc.). I'd suggest you could possibly remove the DPF, have it cleaned (see NATRAD comment- any place that does truck DPFs should/may be able to do it, that's what NATRAD does here in Canberra), reinstall it and run some sort of "new DPF installed"program. I would suggest this will/should reset the DPF regen count, the soot, the ash and perhaps other parameters. It will also likely calibrate the pressure sensors.

Note I am assuming the pressure sensors are reading correctly (I suppose it's possible they are not)!

I am also assuming we end up treating the problem and not just a symptom!
RSR 555 wrote:Yeah, I read this in the owner's manual but as you know, these are only a brief description and they prefer you take the car back to them. I'm fully qualified and have been repairing Subaru cars since the late 80s but this is the first time I've not been able to diagnose the issue.

Fully understand but I'd prefer to try and diagnose the issue first. If I cannot sort it out, I will take it to them but I'm hoping this is my last resort.
Sorry I wasn't meaning to suggest you didn't know things. :oops:

Absolutely do your own diagnosis first! A lot of these things are throwing diesel mechanics because it's different manufacturer to manufacturer, even model to model and version to version and it's often hidden in the proprietary software. People are learning by hard experience unfortunately. Getting your own information is not only helpful to you, but sometimes helpful to others you take the car to...if not least to catch them out...

Theoretically, removing the DPF shouldn't be too difficult: it bolts straight into the exhaust, has a couple of pressure sensors to detach (often at the end of metal tubes and up in the engine bay) and perhaps a couple of temp sensors to detach too.
RSR 555 wrote:Ok. By "DPF overload" I'm guessing you're saying that the DPF is semi/partial blocked with soot?
Apologies again, slack terminology on my part. Yes I meant soot levels are too high in the DPF.
RSR 555 wrote:Ok.. Ok.. Ok.. sorry I've never seen or played with DPF regen stuff on the Modis. I will download the section on it and have a read. Cheers
No need to apologise! Good on you for getting into it and given you're a mechanic and have these things available you'll shortly be ahead of me.

Couple of other things could be playing a part or should be watched for:
1) The glow plugs are known to collapse on the 2010 model (did on ours) , shorting out the fuse. This turns on lots of lights, and disables ABS, DSC, TCS, cruise and possibly several other things besides. Why??? Because in their stupidity, Subaru have wired the ABS on the same fuse as the glow plugs ('cos the ABS needs glow plugs of course...NOT!). Note the engine runs fine without them, however perhaps emissions aren't as good as they could be during warm up and more soot may be generated than normal during warm-up. Solution: if you don't replace them, disconnect them and keep on driving. Car start fine down to at least -7C (tested in Canberra), runs fine.
2) EGR is known to clag up, if the EGR valve can't close/open (it's variable) properly this could affect things. May be worth a clean.
3) MRT has highlighted the variable turbo vanes can also get clagged and this affects their performance.

Some of MRT's videos
Subaru Turbo Diesel Soot Problems

Subaru Diesel DPF secrets and how to fit soot and faults
RSR 555 wrote:Will do mate. Thanks
No probs and will definitely be back with updates.
8-)

Patrick.

P.S. Sorry if the text comes up a bit strange after the youtube links- it does on my PC (Win10 w/ Firefox)
Patrick
Ex- 2010 Forester Diesel

User avatar
RSR 555
Elder Member
Posts: 6951
Joined: Sat Nov 10, 2007 10:42 am
Location: ATM... stuck in Rockingham

Post by RSR 555 » Sun Apr 08, 2018 11:25 pm

pitrack_1 wrote:Sorry... I was afraid you'd take it taht way... by "sigh" I meant "Sigh, another person caught in the DPF trap!"
All good and yeah the dreaded DPF trap.. something I was not looking forward to :(
pitrack_1 wrote:P1469 is overfull DPF soot (>135%... don't drive!) and it's diesel specific. Once logged I believe it might stay until the "DPF is replaced".
Oh.. ok, well I'll need to remove and have cleaned then. Cheers for that.
pitrack_1 wrote:Note I am assuming the pressure sensors are reading correctly (I suppose it's possible they are not)!
Well I'm hoping they are but I guess once I connect up the Modis this should give me a better idea.
pitrack_1 wrote:Sorry I wasn't meaning to suggest you didn't know things. :oops:

No need to apologise, I just thought you didn't remember me.. it has been a few years since I've been on here.
pitrack_1 wrote:Theoretically, removing the DPF shouldn't be too difficult: it bolts straight into the exhaust, has a couple of pressure sensors to detach (often at the end of metal tubes and up in the engine bay) and perhaps a couple of temp sensors to detach too.
Yeah cannot be too difficult at all. I'm sure it's been done before, as I see lots of DPF delete sensor trickery online.
pitrack_1 wrote:No need to apologise! Good on you for getting into it and given you're a mechanic and have these things available you'll shortly be ahead of me.
Long time away for that old chap but together I'm sure we'll nip this little bugger in the butt.
pitrack_1 wrote:1) The glow plugs are known to collapse on the 2010 model (did on ours) , shorting out the fuse. This turns on lots of lights, and disables ABS, DSC, TCS, cruise and possibly several other things besides. Why??? Because in their stupidity, Subaru have wired the ABS on the same fuse as the glow plugs ('cos the ABS needs glow plugs of course...NOT!). Note the engine runs fine without them, however perhaps emissions aren't as good as they could be during warm up and more soot may be generated than normal during warm-up. Solution: if you don't replace them, disconnect them and keep on driving. Car start fine down to at least -7C (tested in Canberra), runs fine.
Yeah the fuses was the first thing we checked because the owner's manual mentioned that when the VDC light is on, this can be because one of the 2 fuses are flown. Neither of the VDC fuses had blown, so I'm guessing it's more a clogged DPF than electrical issue (unless we do have a sensor fault???)
pitrack_1 wrote:2) EGR is known to clag up, if the EGR valve can't close/open (it's variable) properly this could affect things. May be worth a clean.
This is definitely something I have not given any consideration about. Does the EGR have any sensors to give any info back to the ECU? I'm guessing the Modis will show me the answer??? You are right.. I should just plug this dam thing in and find out. My first job of the week :(
pitrack_1 wrote:3) MRT has highlighted the variable turbo vanes can also get clagged and this affects their performance.
I did notice when the first intercooler pipe went a few years ago, that there was a lot of breathing going on. Appeared to coming from the small breather hose just after the air filter, so we made up the catch can trick for this and eveything has been clear since. I did clean out the compressor side of the turbo at the same time and I double checked it the other day went I replaced the second intercooler hose (the 70mm one), thinking it may have cause this problem (hose splitting) again but it is all clear still.

Thinking back at the EGR thing... I know in other diesel cars (thinking back to the early madza bravo days) that we used to blank off the EGR system. Could this work on the Subaru diesel? As the car is well outside the warranty side of things and almost 200k on it, I'm thinking it might help reduce clogging???
You know you are getting old when the candles on your birthday cake start to cost more than the cake itself.

RSR Performance
Home of the 'MURTAYA' in Oz
Subaru Impreza WRX based Sportscar
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

Disclaimer: Not my website but hyperlink here to Subaru workshop manuals

User avatar
pitrack_1
Junior Member
Posts: 319
Joined: Wed Mar 02, 2011 1:16 am
Location: ACT

Post by pitrack_1 » Mon Apr 09, 2018 1:09 am

Hi Paul,
RSR 555 wrote:Oh.. ok, well I'll need to remove and have cleaned then. Cheers for that.
Just connect up your scanner and see if you can initiate a forced regen of some sort first. See
- MRT Video about a forced regen on an overfull Forester DPF (sorry only way I can stop the strange Youtube insertion and link/underline thereafter). Don't forget to change the oil/filter and reset the oil dilution afterward. Maybe an injector relearn too (standard on Mazdas)

I just had this done to my Mazda 3 diesel. Too much pottering about in the city. Mechanic did a full 90mins of forced regen but also checked all the other commanded vs measured parameters (injectors, SCV, DPF pressures, etc.) recalibrated the injectors, etc. and it came back perfect. No DPF clean and no replacement. Sorry I can't get into things that much myself yet (even have a program to do the forced regens on a Mazda, can be initiated manually too) because there's too much wizardry for me to play guessing games, I could really blow things up.

RSR 555 wrote:...once I connect up the Modis this should give me a better idea.
It certainly won't hurt! :)

If you cut a DPF open you can simply buy a new core and fit it if you wanted to keep things clean...But if you simply cut the DPF open and remove the core unless you reprogram properly you may still get regens and/or codes related to bad pressure readings.

Another known 'fix' is to drill a hole through the centre of the core, this still give some backpressure (from the rest of the core) to keep sensors happy.

Re: glow plugs, sorry that was an aside... not likely to have anything to do with the current issue. Just something to watch out for.
RSR 555 wrote:This is definitely something I have not given any consideration about. Does the EGR have any sensors to give any info back to the ECU?
Yes it does. The EGR is generally of or moderate under light throttle. Full open during regens also (I think) varies during warm-up. Closes under full acceleration (see throttle./accelerator position below)

Note also this diesel has a throttle (yes a throttle...or at least lists one as a readback value) which is commanded by the ECU (as opposed to the accelerator position(s) readbacks, commanded by your foot). The throttle is generally open, except when mixing with EGR under regen when it is mostly closed (only 10% open I think if I remember rightly). Throttle is also variable (with the EGR) when warming up too. In a regen under hard acceleration, the EGR closes and the throttle opens until you remove the acceleration.

At least that's what I've measured/seen in the parameter readbacks.
RSR 555 wrote:I'm guessing the Modis will show me the answer??? You are right.. I should just plug this dam thing in and find out. My first job of the week :(
Have I mentioned this before? :p

Might I say your aversion to plugging that 'thing' in is actually very healthy. People forget scanners are only a diagnostic tool (well some will program as well), not a be-all-and-end-all solution which magics away the problem, esp. when they simply cancel the code! You do the right thing- get into it physically and find out what's actually the matter. People forget that underneath all the computer codes is still an actual mechanical device requiring actual mechanical solutions.
RSR 555 wrote:I did notice when the first intercooler pipe went a few years ago, that there was a lot of breathing going on. Appeared to coming from the small breather hose just after the air filter, so we made up the catch can trick for this and eveything has been clear since. I did clean out the compressor side of the turbo at the same time and I double checked it the other day went I replaced the second intercooler hose (the 70mm one), thinking it may have cause this problem (hose splitting) again but it is all clear still.
See what I mean about actual mechanical solutions? :D
RSR 555 wrote:Thinking back at the EGR thing... I know in other diesel cars (thinking back to the early madza bravo days) that we used to blank off the EGR system. Could this work on the Subaru diesel? As the car is well outside the warranty side of things and almost 200k on it, I'm thinking it might help reduce clogging???
Yes it has been/can be done. I think you need to do it appropriately or you can get codes thrown. The EGR is water cooled and it may be that pipe you have catch-canned (not sure)? See this subdiesel page for pics.

Patrick.
Patrick
Ex- 2010 Forester Diesel

User avatar
RSR 555
Elder Member
Posts: 6951
Joined: Sat Nov 10, 2007 10:42 am
Location: ATM... stuck in Rockingham

Post by RSR 555 » Mon Apr 09, 2018 9:21 pm

Hi Patrick,
pitrack_1 wrote:Just connect up your scanner and see if you can initiate a forced regen of some sort first.
Well bad news :( According to the scan tool, we have 170% soot level (really amazed at how we can get over 100% of anything these days???) and 30% blockage. Which won't allow us to do a force regen, so we are going to remove the DPF and have it sent away for cleaning.
pitrack_1 wrote:If you've cut it open you could simply have bought a new core and fitted it if you wanted to keep things clean...
Have you seen where we can puchase these cores?
pitrack_1 wrote:Re: glow plugs, sorry that was an aside... not likely to have anything to do with the current issue. Just something to watch out for.
Oh no mate.. definitely worth mentioning and something I will keep an eye out for. I have noticed that when I start the car, it stalls but if my daughter starts it, it's all good. So I watched her do it and then got her to watch me. We found that she holds the key in the start position just a whisker longer than myself, so I tried her way and voilà.. it starts fine. Do you think this may be a symtom of glow plugs on their way out?
pitrack_1 wrote:Yes it has been/can be done. I think you need to do it appropriately or you can get codes thrown. The EGR is water cooled and it may be that pipe you have catch-canned (not sure)?
Ummm don't think that was the EGR hose that I used, pretty sure it's the crank case breather hose (see attached picture.. sorry not picture of actual car, as my daughter has it at her place) but I've circled the hose we attached a catch can to.
Attachments
Breather Hose.JPG
Breather Hose.JPG (25.76 KiB) Viewed 12941 times
You know you are getting old when the candles on your birthday cake start to cost more than the cake itself.

RSR Performance
Home of the 'MURTAYA' in Oz
Subaru Impreza WRX based Sportscar
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

Disclaimer: Not my website but hyperlink here to Subaru workshop manuals

User avatar
pitrack_1
Junior Member
Posts: 319
Joined: Wed Mar 02, 2011 1:16 am
Location: ACT

Post by pitrack_1 » Mon Apr 09, 2018 11:49 pm

RSR 555 wrote:Hi Patrick, Well bad news :( According to the scan tool, we have 170% soot level (really amazed at how we can get over 100% of anything these days???) and 30% blockage. Which won't allow us to do a force regen, so we are going to remove the DPF and have it sent away for cleaning.
Bummer, that!

Here's a DPF cleaning service in Perth. I worry about a site that lists a "Subaru Outlander" however.
RSR 555 wrote:Have you seen where we can puchase these cores?
I did find a few places only previously. Let's see what I can dig up... (40 mins scrummaging around on the internet... ;-) )
Note I think Subaru use the Delphi brand DPF so you could chase them up but I can't find an Oz website or distributor for them...here's the overseas Delphi site

These links sell actual DPF units. I can't find the core for sale at the moment, I suspect it was on ebay. I think that's mroe common in Europe where there's been heaps of these things for many years.

One site that seems to have the most comprehensive info is DPF Sales Australia.
Subaru Outback DPF (note the Forester might be different...I believe the exhaust routing is different...)

Here's another one: [/url=https://gcg.com.au/diesel-performance/d ... -on-detail]GCG Forester DPF[/url]

Diesel Distributors list the Delphi brand on their website.

One on Ebay (note: cordeirite type)DIESEL PARTICULATE FILTER DPF SUBARU OUTBACK-FORESTER-IMPREZA - ZETTI EMISSIONS

It may be worth contacting your local diesel overhaul and/or DPF/exhaust centre as they may have the contacts necessary?

RSR 555 wrote:Oh no mate.. definitely worth mentioning and something I will keep an eye out for. I have noticed that when I start the car, it stalls but if my daughter starts it, it's all good. So I watched her do it and then got her to watch me. We found that she holds the key in the start position just a whisker longer than myself, so I tried her way and voilà.. it starts fine. Do you think this may be a symtom of glow plugs on their way out?
More likely a symptom of a clogged DPF! The MRT video of the clogged DPF regen said he had trouble starting it and/or it wouldn't idle.

RSR 555 wrote:Ummm don't think that was the EGR hose that I used, pretty sure it's the crack case breather hose (see attached picture.. sorry not picture of actual car, as my daughter has it at her place) but I've circled the hose we attached a catch can to.
No probs, likely I'm wrong (don't have the car myself anymore)!
Patrick
Ex- 2010 Forester Diesel

User avatar
RSR 555
Elder Member
Posts: 6951
Joined: Sat Nov 10, 2007 10:42 am
Location: ATM... stuck in Rockingham

Post by RSR 555 » Tue Apr 10, 2018 9:29 am

pitrack_1 wrote:Bummer, that!
Yep.. just a little but nothing too big we can't handle (here's hoping)
pitrack_1 wrote:Here's a DPF cleaning service in Perth. I worry about a site that lists a "Subaru Outlander" however.
Yeah thanks. I did speak to Jeannine (from MTM) yesterday and she has given me the run down on what the procedure is and what are options are. So I'm going to remove the DPF today and see how bad it really is. I have found another option which I'm in contact with and hopefully I can import to Australia. Will let you know how that turns out.
pitrack_1 wrote:I did find a few places only previously. Let's see what I can dig up... (40 mins scrummaging around on the internet... ;-) )
Note I think Subaru use the Delphi brand DPF so you could chase them up but I can't find an Oz website or distributor for them...here's the overseas Delphi site
Ok cheers. I shall check them out and see what they have to offer.
pitrack_1 wrote: More likely a symptom of a clogged DPF! The MRT video of the clogged DPF regen said he had trouble starting it and/or it wouldn't idle.
Ok.. To be honest, I've only watched a few of his videos and they annoyed the hell out of me, so I haven't watched these ones but I'll try and find some spare time today and have a watch.
pitrack_1 wrote:No probs, likely I'm wrong (don't have the car myself anymore)!
What? you sold your Forester?? Please tell me you had a brain fart :p
You know you are getting old when the candles on your birthday cake start to cost more than the cake itself.

RSR Performance
Home of the 'MURTAYA' in Oz
Subaru Impreza WRX based Sportscar
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

Disclaimer: Not my website but hyperlink here to Subaru workshop manuals

User avatar
RSR 555
Elder Member
Posts: 6951
Joined: Sat Nov 10, 2007 10:42 am
Location: ATM... stuck in Rockingham

Post by RSR 555 » Tue Apr 10, 2018 10:44 pm

Hi Patrick (and any others that may be interested)

We removed the DPF today and found the inside to be blacker than Kamahl and the cat was pretty badly blocked. We decided to do our own strip and clean (with what was sold to us as cleaning fluid) and then reassembled the unit, then refitted to the car. Cleaned all the sensors and pipeworks. Cleared all the codes except the DPF light continued to flash. Took it for a drive down the road and very happy with it until the CEL and VDC lights appeared again. Thinking we were kinda on the right track, we then removed the unit again and this time soaked it in a secret ingrediant (don't ask... because we couldn't tell you what it was) and gave it a much deeper clean. Whilst the DPF was soaking, I purchased a spray can of Three Bond Diesel Engine Conditioner and ran this in the engine without the DPF on, all looked good.. no smoke or black crap coming out of the turbo exhaust housing, so we put it all back together but this time before driving, we ran the regen... man oh man oh GOD !! the smoke could have been seen by NASA, I was surprised that the fire brigade didn't show up (sorry neighbours). So once the regen cut out and the smoke kinda died down, we decided that it was only going to clear out properly on a highway run. Driving to the freeway, I could see cars behind getting further and further back :( then we hit boost.. WOW !!! the car took off like a bat out of hell (scanner showed boost peaked at 21PSI) and looking in the rear mirror I could not see the road or any other cars. Brumby Blake reckoned with that much boost, I must have been frying all 4 tyres. Finally making it to the freeway without trying to bring too much attention to ourselves, we then drove for about 40kms along the freeway in 4th gear at 110km/h. Smoke cleared itself and all the sensors were reading perfectly.
pitrack_1 wrote:It may be worth contacting your local diesel overhaul and/or DPF/exhaust centre as they may have the contacts necessary?
Yep, good advice. Except the ones I called all hung up when I said Subaru Diesel. So I talked to my local Burson parts guys today and they offered me the Three Bond stuff but this really wasn't going to help our blocked DPF case but I grabbed a can for the engine side of things.
pitrack_1 wrote:More likely a symptom of a clogged DPF! The MRT video of the clogged DPF regen said he had trouble starting it and/or it wouldn't idle.
DPF cleaned and still not great starting. I spoke to a mate who imports Subaru engines and parts about the glow plugs and he steered me away to them because he's been bitten with them breaking off and then it's a head removal repair, so he said leave them alone unless absolutely necessary.
You know you are getting old when the candles on your birthday cake start to cost more than the cake itself.

RSR Performance
Home of the 'MURTAYA' in Oz
Subaru Impreza WRX based Sportscar
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

Disclaimer: Not my website but hyperlink here to Subaru workshop manuals

User avatar
pitrack_1
Junior Member
Posts: 319
Joined: Wed Mar 02, 2011 1:16 am
Location: ACT

Post by pitrack_1 » Wed Apr 11, 2018 2:04 am

Good work Paul!

A Clean Result
I was going to suggest you give it a clean out yourself as you really have not much to lose if it's terminally (or close to it) clagged. As you seem to be associated with mechanical/engineering industries I was going to suggest you get hold of an ultrasonic bath and give the DPF a clean in that as this type of device seems to be a good candidate for that type of cleaning.

You did the right thing flushing the DPF out with DPF cleaning solvent, but I think you should have run the DPF regen once refitted as that would have caused it to measure the DPF parameters and recalculate the soot level. Nevertheless, that's done now.

Threebond Engine Cleaner
As for the Threebond diesel engine conditioner, it may be a good thing you ran it though without the DPF. But if it's one of those that sit on the engine surfaces for a while and it's not listed as DPF compatible it's possible it will contaminate/poison (or at least ash up) the DPF.

If you saw the video (or at least title pic) of the DPF burn from MRT you would've known what was coming :-)

Hopefully it all continues nicely for your now.

Forced Regen
How did you initiate the forced regen? By the Scan tool? If so you should also be able to 'force' it to relearn the DPF parameters by telling it there is (an effectively) new DPF installed. This should (I assume) reset the ash parameter and get it to recalibrate the pressure sensors to get a more accurate soot reading.

Didi you also change the oil, the forced regen contaminates it with diesel enough that and oil change is recommended...don't forget to reset the oil dilution parameter.

Glow Plugs
With the glow plugs that's exactly why I left mine alone (I did say to leave them alone!). The dealers, if they damage the threads getting them out end up heli-coiling the thread I believe. Not to mention getting out the broken bits that drop inside...

Boost level
21psi of boost is correct (about 1.5atm), that's what mine would report (well, maybe touch 1.6atm on occasion)

Starting
If the starting is still a problem there may be another issue. I don't believe the glow plugs t influence the start, at least in Australian temps. Not sure what the issue may be though, although a couple of posts elsewhere previously pointed to possibly either watered/contaminated fuel (replace filter) and/or a bleed being necessary (luckily there's a bleed pump mounted on the engine compartment firewall should you run out of fuel). Might be worth a try & run some DPF compatible fuel system cleaner through. Have a look on the scanner at the fuel rail pressure at idle, (I assume) it should remain more or less constant.
Patrick
Ex- 2010 Forester Diesel

User avatar
RSR 555
Elder Member
Posts: 6951
Joined: Sat Nov 10, 2007 10:42 am
Location: ATM... stuck in Rockingham

Post by RSR 555 » Wed Apr 11, 2018 10:36 pm

pitrack_1 wrote:Good work Paul!
Cheers and thanks for all your help along the way.
pitrack_1 wrote:A Clean Result
I was going to suggest you give it a clean out yourself as you really have not much to lose if it's terminally (or close to it) clagged. As you seem to be associated with mechanical/engineering industries I was going to suggest you get hold of an ultrasonic bath and give the DPF a clean in that as this type of device seems to be a good candidate for that type of cleaning.

You did the right thing flushing the DPF out with DPF cleaning solvent, but I think you should have run the DPF regen once refitted as that would have caused it to measure the DPF parameters and recalculate the soot level. Nevertheless, that's done now.
Exactly my thoughts, surely I can't make it any worse than what it is/was. From my understanding of the cleaning process (correct me if I'm wrong), is that firstly the undissolved diesel that has been trapped in the unit needs to be broken down.. either by heat or chemical reaction, then once the "sludge" has been removed, then using an ultrasonic cleaner would be able to remove the soot.

We did run the (active) regen after we fitted the unit back in to the car but did not select "New DPF Fitted" option because.. a) we didn't fit one and parameters wouldn't have been correct and b) we were not sure if the "clean" we did would have cleaned it out enough (below the required % for the ECU to accept a forced regen) but after the big run yesterday, we decided today to select the "New DPF Fitted" option, which also ran the regen again but this time all soot levels came back clear.
pitrack_1 wrote:Threebond Engine Cleaner
As for the Threebond diesel engine conditioner, it may be a good thing you ran it though without the DPF. But if it's one of those that sit on the engine surfaces for a while and it's not listed as DPF compatible it's possible it will contaminate/poison (or at least ash up) the DPF.

If you saw the video (or at least title pic) of the DPF burn from MRT you would've known what was coming :-)

Hopefully it all continues nicely for your now.
Yeah, we didn't want any crap that may have come out of the engine whilst spraying in the cleaner going in to the DPF but as I said, it came out clear and we ran the engine for quite some time after the can was finished. There is nothing on the can about DPF compatible but we didn't use it like you would with those other intake foaming sprays that require you leave it to soak inside the manifold. We did it more to make sure there wasn't any loose soot lying around and ready to go in the DPF.

Yeah I did watch that last video afterwards and that was nothing compared to what ours looked like. Ours was like a state forest fire was close by. Brett's one was like the normal petrol upper cylinder cleans that we do.

We are hoping too and I've decide to take the car away from her once a week and "blow out the cobwebs" for her, so hopefully we won't see that nasty little flashing light again.
pitrack_1 wrote:Forced Regen
How did you initiate the forced regen? By the Scan tool? If so you should also be able to 'force' it to relearn the DPF parameters by telling it there is (an effectively) new DPF installed. This should (I assume) reset the ash parameter and get it to recalibrate the pressure sensors to get a more accurate soot reading.

Didi you also change the oil, the forced regen contaminates it with diesel enough that and oil change is recommended...don't forget to reset the oil dilution parameter.
The first regen (more of a hot burn off) was an active one done by the ECU. We saw the whole process on the scan tool but the true regen was done today as mentioned earlier. We did change the oil and filter afterwards and yes, we reset the oil dilution count at ever oil change, as a standard procedure.
pitrack_1 wrote:Glow Plugs
With the glow plugs that's exactly why I left mine alone (I did say to leave them alone!). The dealers, if they damage the threads getting them out end up heli-coiling the thread I believe. Not to mention getting out the broken bits that drop inside...
Umm I didn't read anywhere you say to leave them alone but all good. I will definitely replace them (as a precaution) if the heads ever have to come off. Cheers for that.
pitrack_1 wrote:Boost level
21psi of boost is correct (about 1.5atm), that's what mine would report (well, maybe touch 1.6atm on occasion)
Ok. I'm going to setup the Torque Pro and an old tablet, so Danielle can look out for issues in the future.
pitrack_1 wrote:Starting
If the starting is still a problem there may be another issue. I don't believe the glow plugs t influence the start, at least in Australian temps. Not sure what the issue may be though, although a couple of posts elsewhere previously pointed to possibly either watered/contaminated fuel (replace filter) and/or a bleed being necessary (luckily there's a bleed pump mounted on the engine compartment firewall should you run out of fuel). Might be worth a try & run some DPF compatible fuel system cleaner through. Have a look on the scanner at the fuel rail pressure at idle, (I assume) it should remain more or less constant.
We change the fuel filter ever 50k and never seen any water yet and the can has only had BP Ultimate in it since she has owned it (brought it in 2014). Danielle has no trouble starting it, maybe I'm just to used to our 2017 Diesel Outback.
You know you are getting old when the candles on your birthday cake start to cost more than the cake itself.

RSR Performance
Home of the 'MURTAYA' in Oz
Subaru Impreza WRX based Sportscar
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

Disclaimer: Not my website but hyperlink here to Subaru workshop manuals

User avatar
pitrack_1
Junior Member
Posts: 319
Joined: Wed Mar 02, 2011 1:16 am
Location: ACT

Post by pitrack_1 » Thu Apr 12, 2018 1:29 am

RSR 555 wrote:Cheers and thanks for all your help along the way.
No probs. :-)
RSR 555 wrote:...From my understanding of the cleaning process (correct me if I'm wrong), is that firstly the undissolved diesel that has been trapped in the unit needs to be broken down.. either by heat or chemical reaction, then once the "sludge" has been removed, then using an ultrasonic cleaner would be able to remove the soot.
Remember what I said about you shortly knowing more about the issue than me? :-)

I couldn't find the ultrasonic cleaning fluid I was going to suggest yesterday. Well, found it today: Brulin 815 GD. It's used in the aviation/aerospace industry to clean metals, it's somewhat alkaline but I would not suspect it would interfere with a DPF core as they are ceramic and/or precious metals, which are usually pretty resilient. It's pretty effective, pretty clean itself and pretty non-toxic too. Approvals- Boeing, Airbus, McDonnell Douglas, Lockheed Martin, etc. I used to use it for helping clean both nickel and (sometimes) ceramic components out of plasma sources. It was also fine on mild steel (rinse with deionised water). There might be better versions of the 815 series for this application though. But it's sure good for metal components.
RSR 555 wrote:We did run the (active) regen after we fitted the unit back in to the car but did not select "New DPF Fitted" option because...
...but after the big run yesterday, we decided today to select the "New DPF Fitted" option, which also ran the regen again but this time all soot levels came back clear.
I just suggested the 'New DPF' option because, with your complete clean you effectively were fitting a new DPF. I think basically as EOD (Every One's Different) the system runs the cycle to see what the baseline values should be (i.e. so it knows where 0% soot is).
RSR 555 wrote:Yeah, we didn't want any crap that may have come out of the engine whilst spraying in the cleaner going in to the DPF but as I said, it came out clear and we ran the engine for quite some time after the can was finished. There is nothing on the can about DPF compatible but we didn't use it like you would with those other intake foaming sprays that require you leave it to soak inside the manifold. We did it more to make sure there wasn't any loose soot lying around and ready to go in the DPF.
I think it was a very good idea. I also figured you'd know more than me...and you do...
RSR 555 wrote:Yeah I did watch that last video afterwards and that was nothing compared to what ours looked like. Ours was like a state forest fire was close by.
Love the description! And so much for 'saving the environment' by removing pollutants with a DPF- all it does is save it up for one big burn!
RSR 555 wrote:Umm I didn't read anywhere you say to leave them alone but all good. I will definitely replace them (as a precaution) if the heads ever have to come off. Cheers for that.
Errr... didn't I say that?! Sorry! I should go read my own posts!
RSR 555 wrote:Ok. I'm going to setup the Torque Pro and an old tablet, so Danielle can look out for issues in the future.
Yes, good to watch for soot and when regen's on. The regen cycle takes 12.5 or 13 mins to complete, so if it initiates then 10-15 mins or so at 80+km/h will complete the cycle (keep 2000+ rpm).
Patrick
Ex- 2010 Forester Diesel

User avatar
RSR 555
Elder Member
Posts: 6951
Joined: Sat Nov 10, 2007 10:42 am
Location: ATM... stuck in Rockingham

Post by RSR 555 » Thu Apr 12, 2018 11:04 am

pitrack_1 wrote:Remember what I said about you shortly knowing more about the issue than me? :-)

I think it was a very good idea. I also figured you'd know more than me...and you do...
I'm definitely a fast learner and will question myself quite a lot but I feel I'm well behind the in the learning stage but happy to have Patrick Kenobi on my side :)
pitrack_1 wrote:I couldn't find the ultrasonic cleaning fluid I was going to suggest yesterday. Well, found it today: Brulin 815 GD. It's used in the aviation/aerospace industry to clean metals, it's somewhat alkaline but I would not suspect it would interfere with a DPF core as they are ceramic and/or precious metals, which are usually pretty resilient. It's pretty effective, pretty clean itself and pretty non-toxic too. Approvals- Boeing, Airbus, McDonnell Douglas, Lockheed Martin, etc. I used to use it for helping clean both nickel and (sometimes) ceramic components out of plasma sources. It was also fine on mild steel (rinse with deionised water). There might be better versions of the 815 series for this application though. But it's sure good for metal components.
Looks like it's good stuff but I don't have a big enough sonic bath for the whole unit to sit in :(
pitrack_1 wrote:I just suggested the 'New DPF' option because, with your complete clean you effectively were fitting a new DPF. I think basically as EOD (Every One's Different) the system runs the cycle to see what the baseline values should be (i.e. so it knows where 0% soot is).
Yeah, wouldn't say our clean was that complete. I would have preferred to bake it then clean but we got there in the end. I have been in contact with another company re: cleaning fluid and will let you know how it goes. They are a european company that have dealt with DPFs for a long time and have come up with a solution to solve the dreaded "overload" issue.
pitrack_1 wrote:Love the description! And so much for 'saving the environment' by removing pollutants with a DPF- all it does is save it up for one big burn!
Yeah.. it made me laugh too but I'm sure if the active regen was done as per manufacture's requirements, then it would be ok
pitrack_1 wrote:Yes, good to watch for soot and when regen's on. The regen cycle takes 12.5 or 13 mins to complete, so if it initiates then 10-15 mins or so at 80+km/h will complete the cycle (keep 2000+ rpm).
Yep. I read that as long as you're in 4th, 5th or 6th gear between 1800 and 2500 for more than 15 mins (without and changes to acceleration) then the regen takes place. I'm guessing the regen may take longing if the soot levels are higher? or is this wrong??
You know you are getting old when the candles on your birthday cake start to cost more than the cake itself.

RSR Performance
Home of the 'MURTAYA' in Oz
Subaru Impreza WRX based Sportscar
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

Disclaimer: Not my website but hyperlink here to Subaru workshop manuals

User avatar
pitrack_1
Junior Member
Posts: 319
Joined: Wed Mar 02, 2011 1:16 am
Location: ACT

Post by pitrack_1 » Fri Apr 13, 2018 2:07 am

RSR 555 wrote:I'm definitely a fast learner and will question myself quite a lot but I feel I'm well behind the in the learning stage but happy to have Patrick Kenobi on my side :)
Whilst I sit here proselytizing you've done the REAL work (congrats)!

RSR 555 wrote:Yeah, wouldn't say our clean was that complete. I would have preferred to bake it then clean but we got there in the end.
Much cheaper than a new DPF!!!
RSR 555 wrote:I have been in contact with another company re: cleaning fluid and will let you know how it goes. They are a european company that have dealt with DPFs for a long time and have come up with a solution to solve the dreaded "overload" issue.
Sooner or later people were going to come up with a solution (sorry, bad pun) to the problem. After all it's just a matter of 'cleaning' so you just need the appropriate chemical /method to remove the 'gunk' and leave the substrate behind. Sounds like there might be a business opportunity there ;-)

Must be said the truck DPFs are much easier as they are simple cans designed to come apart for cleaning.

Ahem, just by chance found this link to an Oz DPF cleaning chemical supplier- Bluechem. Found 'em previously but somehow they didn't show up in my recent searches.

And I think there are ways to clean the DPF without removing it- you remove a port (or drill a hole), inject/spray the solution, wait then reseal and run the car. Ahem (again!), found the videos- Liqui-Moly "Diesel Particulate Filter Purge" and Wurth Australia "Wurth Diesel Particulate Filter Cleaner", both on youtube.
RSR 555 wrote:Yeah.. it made me laugh too but I'm sure if the active regen was done as per manufacture's requirements, then it would be ok
I think the manufacturer's requirements were drummed up (and live) in the manufacturer's lab/test zone. Then the real world intervenes...fuel isn't perfect, car can't live on freeway at 100km/h all the time, servicing isn't ideal, driving style isn't ideal, car gets started and stopped, EGR/other bits clog up, etc.
RSR 555 wrote:Yep. I read that as long as you're in 4th, 5th or 6th gear between 1800 and 2500 for more than 15 mins (without and changes to acceleration) then the regen takes place. I'm guessing the regen may take longing if the soot levels are higher? or is this wrong??
I think what happens is this: It tries to run a ~13min cycle. The on trigger is soot >65% (and <135%) and exhaust temp above a certain level. Perhaps a few other parameters too, like how long the car's been running, is it at operating temp, etc.

I believe the "off" trigger is 55% soot - that is, if the regen doesn't get below 55% soot it will want to do it again, or continue.

During the cycle it is trying to regenerate the DPF the whole time, even whilst at idle- it's just not effective.

I found it regenerated reasonably effectively if kept in 3rd at 60km/h (that's GPS speed, not speedo). At least the soot reading came down properly- maybe internally it wasn't being burnt off quite as well.

So for example if you initiate a regen at, say 65% and turn off the car shortly after at 60% then when you start up again it will try to continue/restart the regen as long as the exhaust temp/other parameters are met. If it detects the soot is below 55%, then it waits until it goes above 65% before attempting regen again.

There are a couple of parameters you can watch to see the injection volume and you can see under regen there is extra injection at idle or even injection whilst running downhill with no accelerator (and none when no regen active).

Also you could perhaps try one of the tank additives that is meant to reduce the combustion temp fo the soot- this might help with the normal driving.
Patrick
Ex- 2010 Forester Diesel

User avatar
RSR 555
Elder Member
Posts: 6951
Joined: Sat Nov 10, 2007 10:42 am
Location: ATM... stuck in Rockingham

Post by RSR 555 » Fri Apr 13, 2018 6:48 pm

pitrack_1 wrote:Much cheaper than a new DPF!!!
Much and a lot simpler that I expected
pitrack_1 wrote:Sooner or later people were going to come up with a solution (sorry, bad pun) to the problem. After all it's just a matter of 'cleaning' so you just need the appropriate chemical /method to remove the 'gunk' and leave the substrate behind. Sounds like there might be a business opportunity there ;-)
I'm guessing it won't be long before electric cars take over, so the fossil fueled cars will die off
pitrack_1 wrote:Must be said the truck DPFs are much easier as they are simple cans designed to come apart for cleaning.
Maybe the market here is to make Subaru EE20 DPFs with removable sections???
pitrack_1 wrote:Ahem, just by chance found this link to an Oz DPF cleaning chemical supplier- Bluechem. Found 'em previously but somehow they didn't show up in my recent searches.
Yeah, these would be good to try but I'm going to try this european method first and see how that goes
pitrack_1 wrote:And I think there are ways to clean the DPF without removing it- you remove a port (or drill a hole), inject/spray the solution, wait then reseal and run the car. Ahem (again!), found the videos- Liqui-Moly "Diesel Particulate Filter Purge" and Wurth Australia "Wurth Diesel Particulate Filter Cleaner", both on youtube.
Probably easier to just use these products in your fuel tank
pitrack_1 wrote:I think the manufacturer's requirements were drummed up (and live) in the manufacturer's lab/test zone. Then the real world intervenes...fuel isn't perfect, car can't live on freeway at 100km/h all the time, servicing isn't ideal, driving style isn't ideal, car gets started and stopped, EGR/other bits clog up, etc.
Most likely and yeah, when we brought the new Outback last year the dealership made us sign a form saying that would make sure the car travelled so many kms per day to allow the DPF soot to burn off. My wife drives 110kms a day, so all is good there
pitrack_1 wrote:Also you could perhaps try one of the tank additives that is meant to reduce the combustion temp fo the soot- this might help with the normal driving.
I think this would be the best and easiest solution for most people but definitely wouldn't rely on this. I'd still take the car for a highway run at least once a week
You know you are getting old when the candles on your birthday cake start to cost more than the cake itself.

RSR Performance
Home of the 'MURTAYA' in Oz
Subaru Impreza WRX based Sportscar
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

Disclaimer: Not my website but hyperlink here to Subaru workshop manuals

User avatar
RSR 555
Elder Member
Posts: 6951
Joined: Sat Nov 10, 2007 10:42 am
Location: ATM... stuck in Rockingham

Post by RSR 555 » Fri Apr 13, 2018 7:30 pm

Hi Patrick, Could you do me one more favour? Would you help me setup my tablet to look like your setup?
pitrack_1 wrote:Here's a photo of some of the diagnostics I have to go to to monitor the damn thing
Image
You know you are getting old when the candles on your birthday cake start to cost more than the cake itself.

RSR Performance
Home of the 'MURTAYA' in Oz
Subaru Impreza WRX based Sportscar
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

Disclaimer: Not my website but hyperlink here to Subaru workshop manuals

User avatar
pitrack_1
Junior Member
Posts: 319
Joined: Wed Mar 02, 2011 1:16 am
Location: ACT

Post by pitrack_1 » Fri Apr 13, 2018 9:44 pm

What I can probably do is PM you or do another post with the dashboard setup and/or profile file(s) and the PID file attached and tell you what directory to put them in on your android device. Once they're in there Torque Pro should pick them up automatically.

I have some other stuff to do and I have to access my tablet to find/get the files (or my old laptop backups) so I'll do that later tonight.
Patrick
Ex- 2010 Forester Diesel

User avatar
RSR 555
Elder Member
Posts: 6951
Joined: Sat Nov 10, 2007 10:42 am
Location: ATM... stuck in Rockingham

Post by RSR 555 » Fri Apr 13, 2018 11:24 pm

Cool. I would probably start a completely new thread, that way it can be made in to a sticky thingy if admin decides to??
You know you are getting old when the candles on your birthday cake start to cost more than the cake itself.

RSR Performance
Home of the 'MURTAYA' in Oz
Subaru Impreza WRX based Sportscar
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

Disclaimer: Not my website but hyperlink here to Subaru workshop manuals

User avatar
pitrack_1
Junior Member
Posts: 319
Joined: Wed Mar 02, 2011 1:16 am
Location: ACT

Torque Pro setup for Diesel Forester 2010 and on

Post by pitrack_1 » Sat Apr 14, 2018 2:19 am

Hi Paul,

I'll reply in your thread currently so we can do Q&A as necessary. Once we have a definitive setup procedure you/I can make a new 'correct' thread/post that can be stickied if necessary.

What you'll need
* Android device
* Torque Pro for Android
* Possibly a couple of plugins for Torque Pro (see below)
* A couple of files- a dashboard setup and a PID list to be added
* An OBD-II Bluetooth 'dongle' that works
* Your OBD-II compatible Forester diesel :-)

Procedure
1. Pay for and install Torque Pro on your Android device.

2. There’s one or two plugins for Torque Pro you may need so download and install them. In particular you need Torque Scan.
The list of options around the startup screen on Torque I have is: Realtime Information, Help, Adapter Status, Graphing, Test Results, Torque Scan, Map View and Fault Codes. If any are missing, (e.g. Torque Scan), download and install them (they should be free)

3. Install a file management utility program (similar to File Explorer on Windows) for your Android device such as Ghost Commander or Total Commander.

4. Download the two config files attached to this post to your Android device. They’ll probably end up in your Downloads folder.
Layout_for_RSR_555.dash is the setup file for the dashboard
Diesel_Forester_PIDs.csvis the config file with the parameters required in it.
As I can only upload them as ZIP files, you will need to ‘unzip’ them after you download them.

5. Using the file explorer on your Android device
..a. Locate the 2 files listed above in your download directory
..b. Unzip the two files using the file utility (probably press and hold the file and then select from the options)
..c. Locate the Torque Pro directory for dashboards: it will be something like /storage/.torque/dashboards . The File explorer utility screen should have two sides so if you have the downloads on one side, locate the .torque subdirectory on the other. You may have to turn on an option like ‘show hidden files and directories’ to see the “.torque’ subdirectory. Search for it if necessary. For example, mine is /storage/emulated/0/.torque/dashboards
..d. Copy Layout_for_RSR_555.dash from the downloads directory to the .../.torque/dashboards subdirectory.
..e. Copy Diesel_Forester_PIDs.csv from the downloads directory to the .../.torque/extendedPIDs subdirectory (locate like above).

6. Start Torque Pro.

7. Import the extended PIDs into Torque Pro:
..a. Open Torque Pro (if not already) and click the Settings icon (likely little gear wheel in bottom left corner)
..b. Select Manage extra PIDs/Sensors
..c. Click the menu icon (likely top-right corner) and select “Add predefined Set”
..d. You should be able to select “Diesel_Forester_PIDs” which is the file you wish to import

8. Load the dashboard:
..a. Go back to the Torque Pro main menu and select “Realtime Information”
..b. Click the menu icon and select layouot settings
..c. Select import layout
..d. The Layout_for_RSR_555.dash dash should be available so select it.

9. Save the vehicle profile:
..a. Go back to the Torque Pro main menu
..b. Click the settings icon
..c. Click vehicle profile
..d. Click create new profile…
..e. Give the profile a name, select options as required and click “Save”

10. Exit Torque Pro

11. Park the vehicle safely, insert your OBD-II scanner into the car’s port and start the car.

12. Start Torque Pro and let it connect to the scanner and the car.

13. Check the realtime information. Hopefully you don’t have to load up the dash again, but if required do so as above.
..a. Note there are two output pages for the realtime data, you can scroll up and down between them by swiping.
..b. The other one has OBD Speed, GPS speed and Spd diff. for comparison. If you have the android device’s GPS activated, this will tell you your real (GPS) speed vs the car’s (OBD) registered speed vs the speedo readout. Dependent on tyre size (or other drivetrain changes) usually the OBD is within 1-2% of the GPS (it has to be or the odo would be incorrect) but the speedo will overread by 5-10% (legal and so you don’t get busted speeding).

Hope this helps,
Attachments
Diesel_Forester_PIDs.csv.zip
(759 Bytes) Downloaded 239 times
Layout_for_RSR_555.dash.zip
(2.77 KiB) Downloaded 223 times
Patrick
Ex- 2010 Forester Diesel

Post Reply

Return to “Trouble Shooting”