2010 TD forester oil dilution ratio reset

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TOONGA
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2010 TD forester oil dilution ratio reset

Post by TOONGA » Sat Sep 05, 2015 11:15 am

I'm looking at servicing my wife's 2010 TD forester, as I can't understand why it costs close to 400 dollars for an oil change from Subaru (mostly for a stamp in the log book I presume)

I have found little to no information on the subject of "oil dilution ratio reset".
a member once said the procedure was in the owners manual but when asked where in the owners manual the silence fell.

I have found this on subaru diesel crew https://subdiesel.wordpress.com/2011/01 ... pf-models/
for the Euro5 model

Diagnostic protocol (Extended OBD-II only since it is not implemented via SSM2 in ROM)
Manual procedure, see your car manual, you only have a few seconds to accomplish each step:

Transmission in neutral
Depress and hold brake pedal
Defogger ON
Lights ON (stage 1 = parking lights/DRL is enough)
Defogger OFF
Lights OFF
Defogger ON (again)
Lights ON (again)
Defogger OFF
Lights OFF
Release brake. Now the glow light (depicting yellow coil) will flash for a few seconds.
the same information is on subaruforester.org http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin ... ost1034133

but with a little more information
start engine (neutral I suppose)
depress & hold brake peddle
turn rear demister on
turn parker/clearance light on
turn rear demister off
turn lights off
turn rear demister on (again)
turn parkers on (again)
turn rear demister off
turn lights off
release brake

the glow plug light should blink for 5 seconds to confirm reset has been successful

note - the above steps need to be done pretty quickly. I think you have a max of 4 seconds between each of the above steps.. If it fails, let engine idle for 30 seconds, turn off for 15 seconds and retry..
My question how do I know if my wife's forester is the Euro4 or the Euro5 ?

as the Euro4 is via computer / scan tool only according to this thread https://subdiesel.wordpress.com/2015/06 ... ine-euro4/

Changing the oil and filter is a breeze... making the computer happy not so much.

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Post by steptoe » Sat Sep 05, 2015 7:42 pm

have you searched in here on pitracks posts ? he got into the nitty gritty when it was a hot topic ....

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Post by TOONGA » Sat Sep 05, 2015 10:20 pm

steptoe wrote:have you searched in here on pitracks posts ? he got into the nitty gritty when it was a hot topic ....
I think that may have been the member who said there was a way to do it via the owners manual.

I will look into it further ... after I get some sleep :)

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Post by pitrack_1 » Sun Sep 06, 2015 12:44 am

HI Toonga,

I still lurk here...

All Oz spec cars forester diesels are 2010+ and EURO5 (or now 6), therefore DPFed. I haven't done the oil dilution reset myself. Always serviced through the dealer.

I cannot remember finding the oil dilution reset information in the manual or the supplement (diesel, Australia).

Newer cars (2012+) seem to have shown far less problems, judging by lack of complaint posts.

Pre-2010 cars were EURO4 as far as I know and not delivered to Oz. Be glad we didn't get those, they tend to throw cranks!

Also note we are meant to use EN590 spec diesel but that's seemingly not available in Oz. See my little investigation here.

Some other things to watch out for, all should be in various parts of my (rather long now) thread here:
  • Excessive regens caused by a split intake elbow buried somewhere down between the turbo and the intercooler I believe
  • Failed glow plugs. A failure leading to a short will blow the fuse controlling (of all things) the ABS +VDC + traction control. As far as I can see, disconnect the glow plugs and keep driving, we've started down to -7C this year no problems
  • Monitoring info so you can pick this stuff up and also cancel/reset codes in there too.
Good luck,
Patrick
Ex- 2010 Forester Diesel

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Post by TOONGA » Sun Sep 06, 2015 3:51 pm

Thanks for the info I'm thinking of buying a scan tool something like this 40 dollar job

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Car-Vehicle- ... 3641.l6368

or finding some software that will work with my obd2 scan cable :)

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Post by tambox » Sun Sep 06, 2015 7:02 pm

Careful with those tools, I have tried a few of them, on loan, and they do not always give accurate readings.
They will show readings that the ECU is not capable of handling, this adds to the confusion.
Unfortunately, the expensive ones are more accurate.

As long as you can understand the output from a bare ob2 reader, they are good.
Just a lot of thinking and don't jump to a conclusion.

I have an expert friend in car electronics, some later stuff can only be done OEM.
L serious, still.

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Post by TOONGA » Sun Sep 06, 2015 7:23 pm

Yeah I would love to be able to spend up to $500 on a scan tool for a reasonable one.

But that's not going to happen in a hurry... :(

I've used OBD scan tools on an old laptop for my EJ22, but it died not too long ago of heatstroke :(

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Post by pitrack_1 » Sun Sep 06, 2015 9:21 pm

I use a generic copy bluetooth OBD-II dongle with Torque Pro on android. THis is a good start and it has worked well with one particluar exceptional fault listed below. I've also had the dongle working with my laptop under XP using a couple of programs, one of which I think is OBDIICrazy.

There are some extra parameters available fror our model Diesel. Enjoy them, the disappear from the newer ones, probably my fault for listing them. Listed (and links to downloads) here in my thread elsewhere.

The benefit of a PC or Android device is you can log data- Megabytes if you wish.

They only issue is reconnecting whilst Torque Pro is still running- it gets the wrong CANBus speed (250k instead of 500k) and will give a 'Christmas tree' effect. Please read it carefully as there is an issue with the steering assistance, not to mention ABS/traction control/VDC/cruise/boost/rev limiter. Just a couple of incidental things! Solution is make sure Torque pro is OFF (I.e., exitied) before starting the vehicle, error code clear is here.

And yes, the manufacturers have decided to obfuscate and give the bare bones legislated OBD-II codes and proprietary-protect everything else. Having said that, it is mostly, as someone else put it, "security through obscurity" and not actually encrypted, those with enough skill to read the packet information can start figuring things out- which leaves vehicles prone to hacking, as we have already been shown overseas.
Patrick
Ex- 2010 Forester Diesel

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Post by TOONGA » Mon Sep 07, 2015 6:21 pm

Ok looks like I've got more reading to do this weekend :)

Looks to be some very useful information there

Thanks again

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Post by TOONGA » Fri Sep 25, 2015 3:49 pm

So I've done the oil and filter change I used a ryco 148a and Castrol Magnatec Diesel Engine Oil - 5W-40 which is DPF approved.

10 litres of oil for 99 dollars (4.5 left over for the next change) and the filter for 12 dollars and about half an hour of my time total cost 111 dollars.

I'm never sending my wife's forester to the dealer again, unless I have no other option.

I don't think they did anything but change the oil and oil filter on the last service. But we were billed for quite a few odd and ends like wiper fluid and a coolant top up.

I do know they broke the upper engine shroud front mounts by putting it back on the engine incorrectly.

I had to rotate the tyres as they don't, even though I asked them to the last service

The "oil dilution ratio reset" worked and it was a simple procedure.

I've impressed myself :)

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Post by pitrack_1 » Mon Sep 28, 2015 2:04 am

Toonga, you've impressed me too, well done!

I hope you get many years of trouble free motoring. Just keep an eye on the other things to change, like the fuel filter, etc. and several items below from our experience.

Quite a few of the oils (gearbox, diff fluids) get changed somewhere around 100 (or 112.5 or 125 )k km. Air filter at 40k if I remember correctly.

You can do the pollen filter yourself really easily (try an older Mazda 3 for comparison) and they're available from Repco etc,. You can get the activated carbon ones now too possibly. At least 70k before change if in 'clean' air e.g. near the coast with little dust.

0W-30 may give slightly better fuel economy, but 5W-30 may be better if you cop higher Temps esp coming into summer.

No timing belt, points/ignition, valve adjustment (so far as I know) make it easy. Coolant after 10 yrs.

Watch the glow plugs, they fail and blow a fues that will disable the DSC, ABS Cruise et al. Diagnose through the code thrown. See my thread elsewhere about fuse replacement (find it then find a spare!), glow plug disconnection (relatively easy if a bit tedious), effects (none noted) and resetting the code (easy). 'Cos we all need glow plugs to control the ABS, DSC, VDC, cruise, etc.- just like on the petrol engines, eh?!? I think they're ~$150 each, difficult to remove, you need to get the exact correct ones and it tends to be one out, all out or face multiple faiures.

Also watch the rear diff temp sensor, it's in a *very* exposed location and the wire/connection prone to damage/failure (we've had the wire damaged, fixed under warranty).

A/C can be another weak point (and I suspect ours is on the fritz- whining sometimes).

Dealer even 'decoked' our engine at 100k (for free)- last I head about that was for BLMC vehicles in the 70's...if they made it that far :-) I'm not sure how much and how far the dealer went- I believe it's likely just the intake tract where the EGR likely pollutes and causes build-up.

Key fobs can be tempramental and failure prone- ~ $400+ to replace- check the battery first (must be quality and 1.55V, e.g AgO). The solder terminals for the battery connector can fail so resoldering those is a good bet when faulty too. One fob/key replaced under warranty for us.

Turbo elbow pipe can leak/fail. Causes excessive regens and eventually loss of boost. Happened to us. Expensive form dealer, not sure if an aftermarket will fit.

The climate control may not... we can no longer get sensible control out of ours in winter. Fixes may be available through a parallel resistor to the thermistor sensor. Threads exist elsewhere, I think.

Steering can rattle, clutch is weak (3rd gear will simply rev and burn out the clutch from standstill) and gearbox misselects regularly (hence 3rd gear starts, and 5th to 4th instead of 6th).
It's not really the reliable Subaru I expected via reputation.
Patrick
Ex- 2010 Forester Diesel

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Post by TOONGA » Mon Sep 28, 2015 8:57 am

Wow seems you have either had some problems or have done your research.

Subaru did the major service right before the lead technician left to work elsewhere. I should find out where he went and if we need to get major work done get in touch with him.

As the motor has done 150000+ KMs and the way my wife drives I opted for the 5W-30.
I'm changing the filters next service if needed, RSR doesn't know it but he will be helping me :) as his daughter has the same vehicle. he would have already done all the filters so he can show me how they are done.

Thanks for the info

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Post by TOONGA » Tue Dec 22, 2015 9:49 am

So another oil change down the road and I've opted for Penrite DL-1 5w-30 by a mechanic who uses it in his toyota diesel work van. It works out to be about 10 dollars more for a 10 litre tub as apposed to the Castrol oil I used on the last change.

The reset procedure works. This Was confirmed using snap on solus scan tool. The scanner was connected before the procedure and showed oil dilution of 10%, as the engine was due for a service this was expected but a little surprising.

The scanner was disconnected without resetting dilution. Service was done and I then did the procedure. Scanner was reconnected and oil dilution was at 0%. I do know of others who have tried this procedure and it has not worked as the ECU has had this reset value locked.

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Diesel reset procedure works

Post by pitrack_1 » Thu Jan 19, 2017 1:14 am

Just quickly I can confirm that the reset procedure in Toonga's post at the top works on my 2010 Forester Diesel.
Patrick
Ex- 2010 Forester Diesel

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