New CV joint noise L Series

ratters · Post by **ratters** » Wed Nov 13, 2013 5:06 pm

A couple of weeks ago i replaced both front CV joints, springs, shocks, discs and pads. Apart from some initial brake noise which went away it was all good.

Now after about 500km of driving im getting CV joint knocking noises and i would even say possibly its both sides! Im really annoyed, no idea whats going on there and i thought i did a really good job. they were a pair of brand new complete shafts.

its even clicking when im driving in a straight line at slow speeds, and the obvious CV knocking noises when turning. its getting worse fast.

i did the castle nuts up very tight, standing on the breaker bar, so i dont think that could be it unless its possible to do them too tight?

This is really doing my head in so any ideas and help are welcome!!

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Wed Nov 13, 2013 6:13 pm

What brand drive shafts? I had/have almost the same problem on my Brumby but I only put new shafts in and immediately there was a horrible clicking clunking noise. Mine were Protex brand, I have returned them and got a refund.

Sorry can't help other than that, I've had better expensive ones put in and even swapped the gearbox over but the noise remains so I just ignore it now.

Kalbarri_baru · Post by **Kalbarri_baru** » Wed Nov 13, 2013 7:06 pm

Yeah same dramas here, my problem was my L series is lifted and was fitted with C.V's with the tripod design (3 Ball Design from Repco) after advice from Paul at RSR performance he put me on to Alan's CV Joints in Osbourne Park W.A where he replaced the tripod design with a 6 Ball design and I have had no problems with my CV's since.

Here is the word for word description below.

Test drove vehicle could hear CV joint related problems and vibration, on removing the shafts from vehicle found inner CV joints fitted were of a tripod design (3 rollers) not 6 ball design which gives a vibration common to tripod design inner CV joint on Subaru.

Hard lesson for me with the original replacement at nearly $600.00 including fitting (Country Mechanic) these lasted around 1000km before I had to change them, and then another $500.00 fitted at Alans CV's, won't make that mistake again with three ball design.

Cheers

WayneO.................................

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Wed Nov 13, 2013 7:19 pm

Thanks Wayneo and exactly what I was going to say. Also I recommend you look very closely at the cone shaped washer on the outer joint (below the big nut and flat washer), these get a worn face on them and cause a ridge/lip on the very outer edge of them, thus causing them to foul up against the drive flange. This in turn stops the nut from tightening up any further and pulling the CV joint in tight against the hub.

Hope this makes sense?

Kalbarri_baru · Post by **Kalbarri_baru** » Wed Nov 13, 2013 7:28 pm

RSR 555 wrote:look very closely at the cone shaped washer on the outer joint (below the big nut and flat washer), these get a worn face on them and cause a ridge/lip on the very outer edge of them

Hey Paul I had a look at those cone shaped washers on the front L & R after that trip and mine need replacing along with the flat washer, do you know where I can get them brand new or a part No, might do all 4.

Cheers

WayneO.................

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Wed Nov 13, 2013 10:21 pm

Kalbarri_baru wrote:Hey Paul I had a look at those cone shaped washers on the front L & R after that trip and mine need replacing along with the flat washer, do you know where I can get them brand new or a part No, might do all 4.

Cheers

WayneO.................

I'm sure you can still get them from Subaru.. Just send Andy (FROG) a PM

ratters · Post by **ratters** » Thu Nov 14, 2013 8:22 pm

OK thats some really good info, i dont know much about CV joints so I guess first thing maybe check that the cone washer is back in its original groove.

Sheepishly I admit that they are ebay cheapies..

-assembled in australia by CV joint Aust
- 6 ball bearing inner
- part no CVS-902/SB-8-902

Thats about all the info there is, although conflicts with the advice about 6 ball bearing being better? there is also a new vibration which occurs between 50-60kmh. my L series has a 2" body lift too which could be part of the problem i guess.
im sort of doubting now that anything except new shafts will fix it, which is a shame because its money wasted.
Can anyone recommend a particular brand or part number that i can track down?

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Thu Nov 14, 2013 10:05 pm

I saw these on fleabay and think they look ok but personally I like to use genuine ones, as the money you pay out weights the cost of replacing them every 12 months.

The other option I use is reconditioning the genuine ones. We have a place over here in WA (Allan's CV Joint) that machines out the grooves and place over sized balls in them. For some reason the genuine ones have much better of quality steel in the cups, that doesn't wear out like the non gen ones.

NachaLuva · Post by **NachaLuva** » Thu Nov 14, 2013 10:35 pm

ratters wrote:Omy L series has a 2" body lift too which could be part of the problem i guess.

If its a body lift not a strut lift CV angles arent affected

I like Paul's idea of reconditioning OEM CVs with oversize balls in them. I'm sure you're right that they use a very high grade of steel in the cups. More expensive way to go but more peace of mind

ratters · Post by **ratters** » Fri Nov 15, 2013 12:02 pm

OK so ive done some ringing around.

Some choices here:

AADI - $210ea
GSP - $152ea
Motorgear - $215ea
Protex - $172ea
Repco brand - $224

Anyone heard of or had experience with any of those? Protex already mentioned as a possible negative.

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Fri Nov 15, 2013 1:09 pm

Never heard of any of these (except the name Repco for obvious reasons) but I'd try and search google on each name and see if there is any reviews.

Just for interest sake, have you contacted Andy (FROG) for a price on the genuine units? He does some really good deals for AUSubaru members

FROG · Post by **FROG** » Fri Nov 15, 2013 1:17 pm

a and f driveshafts but no warranty on lifted vehicles $121 plus post email or pm me

I have sold some for lifted vehicles with no reported problems as yet!

Or $1000+ for genuines

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Fri Nov 15, 2013 3:04 pm

FROG wrote:Or $1000+ for genuines

WTF?? is this true?

No wonder there is so many people making aftermarket ones. I'd rather buy a pair of secondhand genuine ones and have them rebuilt.

FROG · Post by **FROG** » Fri Nov 15, 2013 3:31 pm

RSR 555 wrote:WTF?? is this true?

No wonder there is so many people making aftermarket ones. I'd rather buy a pair of secondhand genuine ones and have them rebuilt.

Yerp
try this part number 23221GA941 (For my L series wagon - that Im wrecking

)
retail is $1105.95 trade is $884.76

even rears for mine 22021GA071 retail at $928.99 trade is $743.65
No longer available for both.................

David D · Post by **David D** » Mon Nov 18, 2013 6:47 am

ratters, I put GSP driveshafts (fronts) in my Brumby about 2 years back and they're still going. I had to replace a boot once but I've got no idea why it split. My car is standard height and I don't do any off-roading.

David D

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Mon Nov 18, 2013 4:37 pm

David D wrote: but I've got no idea why it split. My car is standard height and I don't do any off-roading.

David D

It's an MY, they split when they want to i.e regularly

ratters · Post by **ratters** » Mon Dec 02, 2013 8:31 am

Well im happy to report that my new A & F driveshafts (thanks FROG) have done about 150km now and all seems to be going well, absolutely quiet.

Couldnt throw those cheap ebay crap in the bin fast enough.

RSR 555 · Post by **RSR 555** » Tue Dec 03, 2013 1:10 pm

Glad to hear it's all sorted