Urgent help required!!!

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Sun Sep 08, 2013 4:16 pm

The sound isn't constant it kind of oscillates if that makes sense, like a crunch, crunch, crunch that increases with the wheel rpm, not engine rpm. It's there all the time but doesn't seem as bad when just rolling along.

I spoke to a former Brumby owner who suggested maybe the brake backing plate got bent onto the brake disc and was rubbing, quickly checked and it's all clear. Other than that perhaps a wheel bearing has chosen the perfect time to let go? I'm still not 100% convinced on the splines spinning inside, because when I pull them out there's absolutely no sign of it (no damage, no metal shavings and you can still see the machining marks on the splines themselves) So I still have no idea what's going on. Luckily there's a car I can borrow to get to work tomorrow, I'm going to speak to Steve at rising sun and see what he thinks, maybe book it in for new wheel bearings or at least a professional look over.

NachaLuva · Post by **NachaLuva** » Sun Sep 08, 2013 5:04 pm

Silverbullet wrote:I'm going to speak to Steve at rising sun and see what he thinks, maybe book it in for new wheel bearings or at least a professional look over.

Thats the easiest way to do it. Try not to stress...I'm sure he'll have it narrowed down in bout 10min!

Subydoug · Post by **Subydoug** » Sun Sep 08, 2013 7:03 pm

I meant remove the front driveshafts except for the outer cups. Makes it RWD when in 4wd. No good if its the wheelbearing.

Regards

Doug

Post by **TOONGA** » Sun Sep 08, 2013 7:34 pm

When I said hub I meant the splined hub that the wheel bolts onto, not the bearing hub.

this part the spline hub

the internal splines should have square tops about 2mm wide if they are triangular the hub is stuffed as well look for a line about a centimetre in if that is there the hub is stuffed.

I noticed that the noise was under load and worse when turning.

I would be thinking the splines are worn enough to cause the shaft to spin.

I have had the same thing happen, the hub looked fine but when compared to a good one the splines were worn enough to cause the shaft to slip and cause the clicking noise.

TOONGA

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Sun Sep 08, 2013 9:33 pm

Yes they're the splines I was thinking of. I didn't happen to notice if the square tops were present, they just looked like splines to me so I assumed they were ok. Pretty sure there was no line 1cm inside. How do these things wear out at all anyway? It's not like the shaft is constantly sliding in and out to cause wear.

So if this is the issue the only option is a replacement hub I assume. Since the other side axle just fell out I'm thinking that one is not far behind, so 2 new hubs. This little repair is turning into another saga that I don't need, every time I work on this car it's another can of worms. It must have had a hard former life, almost every single part is completely flogged out

Post by **TOONGA** » Sun Sep 08, 2013 9:44 pm

Pity you aren't in WA I have 2 complete BRUMBY hubs with the adjustable suspension and control arms as well, sitting in my shed they just need new bearings and discs.

The part is subject to constant torque, remember that it drives the whole car and normally it is the drivers side that gives up first. how old is your brumby mine is 24 years old and was a country ute before I got it. Ive replace lots of things as well.

TOONGA

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Sun Sep 08, 2013 9:56 pm

A shame alright, I'll probably have to spend alot more than I was expecting to fix this now, being Adelaide decent parts can be hard to come by sometimes

Mine is an 84' so getting on for 30 years.

Thanks for your help everyone, hopefully I can get this fixed within a week because getting to work is going to be very hard after that. I've learned my lesson now; if something on this car needs fixing it's not going to be done by me. I think next up will be all 4 shocks need replacing they're another thing that's completely worn out. Better think of every other part related to shocks that could be flogged out and replace them as well

Post by **TOONGA** » Sun Sep 08, 2013 10:09 pm

remember SB that it doesn't have to come off a brumby to fit, if it is underneath it can be from a wagon, sedan or coupe. Look into parts from other cars as well. Like laser front springs, or with a small amount of modification monroe air shocks will fit on the rear end as well. I found out today the "L" series spring will fit in the spring perch of an MY, it is the same size spring (width and length) but has less coils.

while my brumby thread if full of spam

the first post has all the links to quite a few different mods that have been done.

TOONGA

M0rpH · Post by **M0rpH** » Sun Sep 08, 2013 10:43 pm

I did the front shafts, bearings, ball joints and tierod ends on my lifted L not that long ago.
Not really all that difficult, just a little fiddly.

While the splines worn on the hub sound like a likely suspect, did you happen to measure the length of both the new shafts when compressed?

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Sun Sep 08, 2013 11:08 pm

Jees, and it its not even a religeous festival break !

When you calm down a little (easy for us as observers) you can swap in the whole side suspension from the bullet as a temporary fix surely?
How do the front wheel barings feel when sitting on the road, stopped and you wrestle with front wheel?

I am just thinking - the spacer between the front bearings inside the hub - did it drop out or sumptin' or did previous never even fit it and you have dislodged som lucky spacing ?

If I have read right, you swapped in another shaft and you still have the new noi$e ?

I hope Sam, that you will get a laugh out of the repair in years to come.....

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Mon Sep 09, 2013 5:57 pm

Easter will never mean the same thing to me eh, or at least nobody on here will let me forget it

Wrestling with the wheel when on the ground there is no movement anywhere, with it off the ground there is a little bit of movement but nothing huge. As for the bearing spacer I didn't even notice there was a spacer in there, nothing fell out. Yes different shaft same noise, probably good that I swapped it to save destroying my new shaft.

So the car is going in on Wednesday first thing, 2 replacement hubs and possibly 2 wheel bearings if required. I'll limp it there as it is and if that hub really lets go it is safe to put it in 4WD to get the rest of the way. No axle wind up possible if that wheel is allowed to slip. No idea on what this will end up costing me (going to have to dip into my bullet restoration fund

) but hopefully with these things replaced alot of annoying issues will disappear, fingers crossed eh.

I'll throw in an update to the situation later in the week if all goes well.

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Wed Sep 11, 2013 7:07 pm

Update on this issue: I took the car to Rising Sun this morning with the grinding noise all the way there, dropped it off and got a phone call about 90 minutes later saying the hubs are fine, nothing wrong with them

So it was all reassembled with new cone washer/s with the new shaft back in place, noise still there. No signs of anything rubbing or scraping around the shaft itself or brake disc, and the wheel bearing is fine as well.

Well that's kind of a relief but also a right pain in the A$$

Steve suspects I got a dud shaft after all but it still doesn't explain the exact same noise with 2 different driveshafts. So anyway the next step is to buy another new driveshaft to try out which I won't be able to get to him any sooner than Friday, so I won't be seeing my car back before next week

However I did notice on the drive in this morning the distinct lack of vibrations and shuddering that has haunted me forever...so at least the new one that isn't grinding has had some effect.

M0rpH · Post by **M0rpH** » Tue Sep 17, 2013 12:35 am

Did you ever measure your old shaft when compressed and compare it to the new ones?
I am fairly sure the model number you provided was the same model number for the shafts on my L series which would surely have to be incorrect for a brumby?

I did not have a great interaction with protex brand when i replaced my shafts.
If you want to know i will tell, but do yourself a favour if you are putting them back on your car.... go and get some genuine boots and fit them before you do!!

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Tue Sep 17, 2013 8:28 am

the 110 suggests the shafts are the same 110 repco shafts I have in my Brumby

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Tue Sep 17, 2013 5:34 pm

MY and L series shafts are the same as far as I'm aware, and the 110 is listed as corrected for 79-84 Leone in the link I posted earlier. For the record, no I didn't measure them per se

I put them up side by side and they were the same length.

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Tue Sep 17, 2013 9:42 pm

45mm longer in total for an L

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Wed Sep 18, 2013 7:11 pm

45mm longer in total for an L

I did not know this, thanks Jonno.

Ok so I got the car back, noise still there and worse now it's been driven a bit. So we can rule out drive shafts and hubs, so only thing left is the gearbox is stuffed. Driving it home today the sound is worse (louder and does it all the time not just when power on, also alot more of a grinding noise like hardened gears slowly disintegrating) and a loud groaning/moaning noise coming from the g/box at around 80 km/h. Steve thinks something in the front diff is about to go kapooey.

I've already sourced a gearbox from Subareck to pick up on Saturday morning at quite a rude price if I do say so, but I've bought an engine from them before and I'm still driving it so I know their used parts are gold. Plus I need the car back so I figure it costs whatever it costs and I'll deal with the aftermath later. I'll also take this chance to replace the clutch cable, and hopefully I'll get a box with a tighter shifter, and I'll have less clutch pedal free play.

As to why the box decided to pick the perfect weekend to explode, right after I replaced the shafts? Complete luck of the draw I guess but in an odd way I'm in no way surprised, this sort of rubbish happens all the time I've come to expect it.

On the plus side, there are alot less vibrations when driving now, if you can ignore the gear destruction going on in the trans tunnel.

Subydoug · Post by **Subydoug** » Wed Sep 18, 2013 7:48 pm

Drain the old and have a look? maybe the retaining clip on one of the gearbox drive stubs is loose?

I have a 3AT you can HAVE

.

Regards

Doug

Silverbullet · Post by **Silverbullet** » Wed Sep 18, 2013 8:02 pm

I really wanted to today to see all the metal shavings inside but it still needs to haul its sorry ass to the other side of town one more time

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Thu Sep 19, 2013 7:39 am

you'd be draining some grinding media out of the box - make it more reliable and you more panicky seeing what comes out. What happened to the 5 speed L box - didn't you wreck a rust bucket? Er how rude is an MY 4 sp 4WD box from a wrecker ?? If not a rood question