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As the title says, i've got an ea82t (3 pin) from a RX in a L wagon and when driving along a flat road (not accelerating up an incline and not rolling down a decline) the car 'surges'. It feels like its getting held back then suddenly releases and surges forward (any continues doing this til I get annoyed and accelerate). If I accelerate it stops happening for a few moments.

I've been targeting the ignition as it is also misfiring at low revs (but not idle) when cold or for about 30-60 secs after startup. I've replaced the spark plugs (2 weeks ago) (is it a problem running a resistor type instead of a non-resistor type?), coil-dissy lead (today), coil (GT40 yesterday), and the dissy and rotor 'look good'. '

The spark plug leads had resistances from 5kohms (short) to 16kohms (long).
The coil to dissy lead originally on there was 9kohms but i replaced that with a new bosch one with only 2kohms. Can someone tell me what that all means?! - I assume that a lower resistance is better but are the numbers for the spark plug leads too high????

I started getting a ECS light intermittently today after I changed the coil-dissy lead, but only at relatively low cruising revs - I'm not sure if the 2 are related. It came up as code 12 (starter switch remains off). Changing the leads back over didnt seem to stop it happening.

My search for the cause of the code 12 led me to a thread with a vortex that had a bung fuel pump. I can clearly hear my pump running after I crank the engine then let the key go without it starting. It doesn't start any easier after a 'false start'.

But I wondered what the chances are that the surging problem could be a bad pump, a dirty/blocked fuel filter, or dirty injectors?

Has anyone suffered the same problems and discovered a solution???

When I did the coil there was the little black 'thing' grounded to the coil bracket - is that an igniter, or condenser? Does that need to be connected with the GT40? And should I have got the GT40R instead? I'm confused with all the 'Rs' and non-Rs!!!

The R stands for Resistor and is designed for points type dizzys that have a resistor (ballast) on the side of the coil. Electronic dizzys do not require the resistor.

I would say the surging is coming from a fuel issue. I would get the pressure output checked and also check the fuel regulator is working correctly

Cool, thanks

Are FPRs and fuel pumps specific to the model? i.e. different for EA82T and EA82??..

And what does the fpr look like? Has someone got a pic from an ea82t?

Thanks

fpr is in the fuel rail in the middle I think, a cannister with vac line at one end.

I used a new Bosch coil lasted a year, went original from Japan as surging thing started up again on the Bosch. Coils differ between 3 plug and four plug ECU, no igniter with 3 pluggers coil.

Three pluggers coil part # 22433AA041 , was just over 100 bucks or so !
Yeah fuel pumps over the years on T and no T were different - blue label, green label and yellow from memory and they have a little damper built in on end. look the same though....

ajames wrote:Are FPRs and fuel pumps specific to the model? i.e. different for EA82T and EA82??..

Yep

ajames wrote:And what does the fpr look like? Has someone got a pic from an ea82t?

The EA82 EFI FPR is in the fuel line return line on the manifold (sorry no picture on hand) but these ones were good (and I use that term loosely) but over the years they turn to sh*t and I would recommend you fit an aftermarket one like this one...
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ROADSTAR-EFI ... 416e456463

I'd also recommend you fit a new fuel pump. I'd recommend this one...
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Genuine- ... 232a9b85f6

Are the standard pumps in-tank? If they are in-tank, how would I go about plumbing this type?

Am I right in thinking the pump only operates for a few seconds at startup then the fpr regulates flow via vacuum?

The L series fuel pumps are external, mounted in front of the drivers front corner of fuel tank.
The pump runs for a few seconds when you turn the ignition on, to build up fuel pressure for the injectors, to allow the motor to start when cranking.
I'll PM you a scan.

RSR 555 wrote:Yep



The EA82 EFI FPR is in the fuel line return line on the manifold (sorry no picture on hand) but these ones were good (and I use that term loosely) but over the years they turn to sh*t and I would recommend you fit an aftermarket one like this one...
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ROADSTAR-EFI ... 416e456463

I'd also recommend you fit a new fuel pump. I'd recommend this one...
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Genuine- ... 232a9b85f6

The FPR is a good SARD copy, top stuff.

The walbro pump is a great option and a HUGE amount
quieter pump.

have you checked air filter as well?

Yeah air filter is new, haven't done the fuel filter tho.

I'm trying to prioritise the parts here, I'm thinking the fpr and filter should be a good start then pump

I found that the fuel pressure regulator from N13 pulsar is the same shape and pressure as the EA82T one, and was only about $40.

I changed a heap of things trying to chase what felt like way too rich under boost, but the EGO gauge was reading lean, but not consistantly. I borrowed an adjustable FPR and reduced the pressure and found that it improved, but I was far from happy with it so I got the Nissan FPR as a replacement.
It ended up being the injectors. When I got them back from the cleaners, the guy said that they were spraying a stream of fuel, not a mist, no wonder the car was running crap and giving false readings on the EGO sensor

When you get the injectors serviced, make sure you get the little rubber hoses replaced as well.

Those little rubber hoses are pressed or swaged on at the injector end. Did you end up with clamps at injector nd Gannon. EA82T injectors are red ringed, NA grey ? from memory..

steptoe wrote:Did you end up with clamps at injector nd Gannon..

I dont think so. They just had a sorta cone shaped ring at the injector end.

edit:
Google image search

its just standard EFI hose, pushloc barbs so no need for clamps

fuel filter first.

like that 'just' not heard of the name before. Can all injector service specialists do this hose trick then ?

Yeah one of them came off while I was playing with the fuel rail one day. I just pushed the hose back on and slipped the collar on. The fuel rail above holds the injector hoses in place

Sent from my new touchy phone thingy

old swollen hose?

pushloc is a tripple barb pattern.
i freaked when i first accidently cut them. i was happy to find it was normal EFI hose.

it will be difficult to push on, try not to clamp it in a vice to fit if u can help it.

+1 for replacing short hoses on injectors.

Recently had EA82 turbo injectors serviced off car. Got test measurment results all ok. Specified new hose pieces and basket filters and was told that the factory collar/clamp is re-usable. so was given hoses cut to length and old hoses removed from injectors.
Reused old barb/collars no worries.
Stuff using hose clamps.