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AUTO/OFF Button not working for Climate Control
Posted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 5:13 pm
by Yarrahapinnifuz
G'day All,
I've just bought a 2002 Outback Limited 2.5 L Auto. It's in good nic with only 99K kms. At first the "off" button wouldn't work, and now, 3 days later, the "Auto" button has stopped working. All the functions and buttons work fine for the heater and AC except these two. The temperature dial around these buttons is also working. Google tells me a few others have had this same exact problem, but I can't seem to find any solutions. Thus, there is no way to turn the fan off completely. I've also heard that in "auto" mode, the system will turn off the compressor if you need full power (up hills or overtaking).
I would appreciate any tips on how to remedy this issue. I've checked all the fuses I can find.
Cheers
Fuzz
Posted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 7:33 pm
by 60766244
It might just be a rub-through somewhere or a loose set of connectors.
Check the switches themselves, otherwise, pull in a pro.
Being a modern car I'd hit up an Auto Sparky as they'll be able to easily remove the panels (if required) and test wires for faults.
They'll usually track down any error pretty quickly. Good fellas will work for $$ and a case.
Posted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 6:52 am
by Yarrahapinnifuz
Thanks for your input, it could be a loose connector or a wire exposed. Before I went exploring into the centre dash, I thought I'd google the exact problem. And I found a whole heap of blokes with the same model, with the same problem !
Curious thing is that when I bought the car, the OFF button didn't work, but the AUTO button did, perfectly, it would even scroll through AUTO/ECON. After a few days it just randomly stopped working.
My intuition is that, there is a simple fix, or is that just hope on my behalf ? I'd really like to hear from someone who's experienced the same issue,
Cheers
Fuzz
Posted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 5:11 pm
by RSR 555
Never pulled one apart yet but my best guess would be cracked solder joints. I'd see how much a replacement from your local wreckers might be. Might be worth trying another known one before going too far.
Posted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 9:55 pm
by taza
On with Paul here. Being an apprentice auto sparky I'd say it's a pretty simple fix and wouldn't take too long to repair if it's a cracked solder join..
Posted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 10:40 pm
by Yarrahapinnifuz
Cheers RSR 555 and taza, I'll have to give it a try with another from the wreckers I reckon, good idea RSR. Thanks for your input fellas.
Posted: Sat Apr 06, 2013 12:26 pm
by RSR 555
Not a problem. Any luck yet?
Posted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 5:56 am
by Yarrahapinnifuz
Wreckers have one for $65, just thought I'd have one go at sussing the old one first. Now just waiting for the time to do it, (missus is using the car again today !).
Posted: Thu Apr 11, 2013 11:38 pm
by RSR 555
Damn other halves.. the should buy their own Subie
Posted: Fri Apr 19, 2013 7:20 pm
by Yarrahapinnifuz
Thanks to everyone who helped. The module has a circuit board so complicated, you would need a degree in white-man magic to understand it. Also, the button in question is permanently attached to the module, so to access it, means to trash it, grrr. The 2nd hand $65 wrecker one did the trick. Just hope it doesn't wig out too soon.
Off topic, but had a win with another car of mine (old Nissan Pathfinder). The tacho wasn't working and the speedo would read okay but not go back down to register a lower speed for ages. Took it apart, tested everything then noticed the tip of the needles had warped in the sun !! Clipped the tip off both gauge needles, and now both work perfectly. It was driving me nuts so i thought i'd share.
Posted: Sat Apr 20, 2013 8:04 am
by steptoe
Good job on both counts. I guess that is what you call an electro- mchanical fault with the needles
