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brumby hot when idling cools down at highway speeds
Posted: Tue May 29, 2012 9:27 pm
by brockharro
hey i just chaanged gaskets on my inlet manifold of ea81 brumby but now gets hotter than normal at idle but returns back to normal at highway speeds
anyone with any idea please let me know
chheers
brock
Posted: Tue May 29, 2012 9:36 pm
by Alex
Sounds like an air pocket in the cooling system. Give it a good bleed.
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Posted: Tue May 29, 2012 9:36 pm
by taza
Maybe water pump is on the way out, I had a similar thing happen with my Forester. I'm no expert though.
Posted: Tue May 29, 2012 10:19 pm
by brockharro
whats the best way to bleed it alex???
Posted: Tue May 29, 2012 10:20 pm
by Brumby Kid
Hopefully it's an air pocket,
If not I would say head gasket....
Radiator not full because the coolant is in the sump.
When standing still thermos can't compensate for loss of water.
But when moving enough air moves threw to cool it down.
That's what happened to me.
An air pocket can be explained the same way.
Thermos can't work hard enough, but when moving....
Hope this helps.
Cheers Cam
Posted: Tue May 29, 2012 10:28 pm
by olddog642
What I did to bleed mine was to run the front left wheel up on a ramp so as the radiator filler top was higher than the rest of the cooling system, cut the base out of a plastic bottle shoved the neck of the bottle in the radiator fill neck and filled the inverted bottle (which basically acts as a funnel) with coolant, started the engine and let it run at a fast idle topping up the bottle when it needed it. You should see the air bubbles rising to the top.
I actually did this a couple of times before getting the complete system bleed.
Oh turn your heater on as well so the coolant circulates through it also.
Hylton:twisted:
Posted: Tue May 29, 2012 11:27 pm
by El_Freddo
olddog642 wrote:turn your heater on as well so the coolant circulates through it also.
This is relevant for the MYs. But as a note, it doesn't help with the L series or EJ's - they've always got coolant flowing through the heater core regardless of the temp settings.
Ramps and the method that Olddog has mentioned is what usually does it for my subarus - or a long drive (~1hr at cruise) and a top up after it's cooled down.
Cheers
Bennie
Posted: Tue May 29, 2012 11:37 pm
by steptoe
Temp sender and voltage issue ? Brock don't live in a real hot spot at the moment
Posted: Wed May 30, 2012 12:12 am
by El_Freddo
It could also be a partially blocked radiator...
Cheers
Bennie
Posted: Wed May 30, 2012 7:10 am
by brockharro
im leaning towards air atm
coz i droped the coolanr pulled the intake manifold off helicoiled a hole put it all back together then it starts to get hot so im hoping it just air
Posted: Wed May 30, 2012 8:50 pm
by subybrumby
Electric fans???? all working ok??
Posted: Wed May 30, 2012 9:58 pm
by brockharro
yer fan works fine kicks in just over halfway
Posted: Thu May 31, 2012 6:22 pm
by El_Freddo
Have you got a coolant over flow bottle? It doesn't have to be anything fancy - a coke bottle with a hole in the lid for the overflow tube to fit through with do the job, just make sure the tube is near the bottom so that on cool down liquid can still be sucked back into the radiator.
This little system is very effective in replacing air in the system, even better is that you can see air bubbles come out if you happen to be checking things out - but I guess not on the freeway at cruise! It some times just takes a bit of time to bleed everything, usually a long drive at cruise for <30mins does the job for me
Cheers
Bennie