98 EJ AWD Auto into 84 L Series
98 EJ AWD Auto into 84 L Series
Hi guys I've read as many threads as i can relating to conversions. I have a 1984 L series ea82 auto and a complete 1998 Impreza EJ20 AWD auto donor car. I'm just after any information specific for this conversion. Can I swap the front and rear hubs brakes etc to use the Impreza drive shafts? I'm sure I'll plenty of more questions and appreciate any help given thanks
Front hubs, yes, if you machine out the lower control arm for the lower ball joint, you can fit the entire Impreza strut & hub in (though the spring seats may foul on the strut tower as they're a bigger diameter, coilovers are a way to fix this).
Rear end is a lot more work, but is doable (search for Brat kit).
don't forget if you do this, the handbrake will also need to be modified as it will need to be changed to the rear end from the front.
Considering you're only going NA & auto (are you keeping that auto?), then the brake change isn't worth the effort & you should able to put the EJ front driveshaft inner cups onto the L shafts (though this may be too long, you need to check).
Rear end is a lot more work, but is doable (search for Brat kit).
don't forget if you do this, the handbrake will also need to be modified as it will need to be changed to the rear end from the front.
Considering you're only going NA & auto (are you keeping that auto?), then the brake change isn't worth the effort & you should able to put the EJ front driveshaft inner cups onto the L shafts (though this may be too long, you need to check).
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I'm not sure what the deal will be with the front shafts.
I suspect that the L shafts will be too long.
I was going to be using the EJ box, along with the Impreza struts, hubs, & front driveshafts, but as I was going from an NA 1.8 carby to an EFI turbo 2.0 I needed to upgrade the brakes to match as I would need an engineers cert.
As you're only going from NA 1.8 to NA 2.0, you shouldn't need that.
The EJ20T converted RX turbo I bought as my donor car had the WRX rear diff & L rear shafts.
They were not long enough & would pop out of the box under hard launches.
I was going to change to a Liberty RS turbo rear diff (has male stub axles like an L) & then series 1 L rear driveshafts which have floating CVs on both ends of the rear shafts. This gave enough play for stuff to fit.
The series 2 L's only had floating CVs on the inner rears.
In your application, I wouldn't bother for the rear, the NA diffs aren't any better, If you get hold of an LSD, that could be a different story though;)
I suspect that the L shafts will be too long.
I was going to be using the EJ box, along with the Impreza struts, hubs, & front driveshafts, but as I was going from an NA 1.8 carby to an EFI turbo 2.0 I needed to upgrade the brakes to match as I would need an engineers cert.
As you're only going from NA 1.8 to NA 2.0, you shouldn't need that.
The EJ20T converted RX turbo I bought as my donor car had the WRX rear diff & L rear shafts.
They were not long enough & would pop out of the box under hard launches.
I was going to change to a Liberty RS turbo rear diff (has male stub axles like an L) & then series 1 L rear driveshafts which have floating CVs on both ends of the rear shafts. This gave enough play for stuff to fit.
The series 2 L's only had floating CVs on the inner rears.
In your application, I wouldn't bother for the rear, the NA diffs aren't any better, If you get hold of an LSD, that could be a different story though;)
Current rides:
JDM GTII Touring wagon
88 RX Turbo Full-time 4wd touring wagon project - 97 Toyota Caldina GTT (turbo 4wd WRX eater:twisted:) - Hyundai Excel Rally Car:???:
Previous rides:
93 Legacy GT wagon - 85 RX Turbo Full time 4wd Touring Wagon - 85 GL AWD sedan
96 Toyota Caldina wagon
JDM GTII Touring wagon
88 RX Turbo Full-time 4wd touring wagon project - 97 Toyota Caldina GTT (turbo 4wd WRX eater:twisted:) - Hyundai Excel Rally Car:???:
Previous rides:
93 Legacy GT wagon - 85 RX Turbo Full time 4wd Touring Wagon - 85 GL AWD sedan
96 Toyota Caldina wagon
Sorry, no idea.
Current rides:
JDM GTII Touring wagon
88 RX Turbo Full-time 4wd touring wagon project - 97 Toyota Caldina GTT (turbo 4wd WRX eater:twisted:) - Hyundai Excel Rally Car:???:
Previous rides:
93 Legacy GT wagon - 85 RX Turbo Full time 4wd Touring Wagon - 85 GL AWD sedan
96 Toyota Caldina wagon
JDM GTII Touring wagon
88 RX Turbo Full-time 4wd touring wagon project - 97 Toyota Caldina GTT (turbo 4wd WRX eater:twisted:) - Hyundai Excel Rally Car:???:
Previous rides:
93 Legacy GT wagon - 85 RX Turbo Full time 4wd Touring Wagon - 85 GL AWD sedan
96 Toyota Caldina wagon
- El_Freddo
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Ok a few things after reading through this thread:
The L series front drive shafts will be fine for length - what needs to be changed is the inner cup for the same one from the auto box. The difference is that the carbie EA L's came with 23 splines on the inner cup, the MPFI and MPFI turbo shafts have 25 splines on the inner cups - the other difference is that the turbo shafts have a larger ball, cage and cup setup compared to the MPFI and carbie drive shafts. Keep an eye out for a set of MPFI non turbo shafts as these will fit straight on, otherwise swap the cups to a set of 25 spline units.
Wagonist - the reason why the rear shafts would pop out on a hard start is that the torque passing through the rear diff causes it to twist enough to stretch the shaft beyond what it can extend. From memory this occurs on the left mainly. If you stiffen up the mounting of the rear diff with some extra bracing you'll not have this problem. The shafts you've found will do the job so long as you don't over extend them while 4wd'n if you do any...
Drof, if your L was auto from factory it'll be a 4.1 ratio I believe. If the sticker on the back of the diff is not there the only way to check is to pull the diff apart and count the teeth on both pinion and ring gears... Or get one that matches the gearbox ratio
Changing the hubs/brake setup to fit the impreza shafts may not answer all your problems as the impreza drive shafts may be too long for the job, depending on the geometry of the impreza's front end.
Gearboxes for all subarus are the same width at the diff stubs. As for fitting the auto, the usual things will have to be checked out - gearbox crossmember, tail shaft length, gear shifter shaft length etc etc.
Hope this helps out.
Cheers
Bennie
The L series front drive shafts will be fine for length - what needs to be changed is the inner cup for the same one from the auto box. The difference is that the carbie EA L's came with 23 splines on the inner cup, the MPFI and MPFI turbo shafts have 25 splines on the inner cups - the other difference is that the turbo shafts have a larger ball, cage and cup setup compared to the MPFI and carbie drive shafts. Keep an eye out for a set of MPFI non turbo shafts as these will fit straight on, otherwise swap the cups to a set of 25 spline units.
Wagonist - the reason why the rear shafts would pop out on a hard start is that the torque passing through the rear diff causes it to twist enough to stretch the shaft beyond what it can extend. From memory this occurs on the left mainly. If you stiffen up the mounting of the rear diff with some extra bracing you'll not have this problem. The shafts you've found will do the job so long as you don't over extend them while 4wd'n if you do any...
Drof, if your L was auto from factory it'll be a 4.1 ratio I believe. If the sticker on the back of the diff is not there the only way to check is to pull the diff apart and count the teeth on both pinion and ring gears... Or get one that matches the gearbox ratio
Changing the hubs/brake setup to fit the impreza shafts may not answer all your problems as the impreza drive shafts may be too long for the job, depending on the geometry of the impreza's front end.
Gearboxes for all subarus are the same width at the diff stubs. As for fitting the auto, the usual things will have to be checked out - gearbox crossmember, tail shaft length, gear shifter shaft length etc etc.
Hope this helps out.
Cheers
Bennie
- El_Freddo
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Go for the MPFI non turbo cups as these will fit the ball and cage you already have. The issue with buying the turbo cups and ball cage is that the number of splines on the turbo ball cage may be different to the non turbo shaft... Count the splines on what you've got and go from theredrof351 wrote:Thanks very much for that, so what im getting from talking to all you guys is that i can buy ea82 turbo inner cv's that will fit the l series shafts and the EJ Auto?
Cheers
Bennie
- stamp_licker
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I've done this for the reardrof351 wrote:Hi i have looked at the diff and its a late model diff where the cv's slide into the diff. How can i make it suit the l series? thanks
1/Early l series rear shafts,the ones with doj both ends.
2/remove inner joint/cup from shaft.
3/replace with inner cup that suits the diff,you will discover that the ball and races are interchangable.
You cannot use the late model l series shafts,the ones with cv outers,as they will pull out the inner cup out of the diff.Don't mess with trying to strenghten diff housing.Trust me it will come out.This can happen just about any time.If you want to go offroad and a wheel drops it'll pop out,go over a bump in the driveway and pop.
Fronts
1/complete turbo l shafts,still running l series brakes.
Auto l series were all 3.7 front,touring wagons ran a 3.9 rear but the front was still 3.7.
A ej auto in a l series is a awesome setup.You will love it.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]aka the_postie
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Building a hardcore postie:D
Thanks stamp licker, i tried fitting the ej cv's to the l series shafts, the cups were different and wouldn't fir on the ball cage thing. Asked a cv specialist and they said can't be done. Something about the series of cv's aren't interchangeable. As far as the ratio's go does that mean my 3.7 l series diff can be put behind the ej auto sportswagon gear box? Also what radiator and fan setup is best? Thanks
- stamp_licker
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Try different ej cups.I've made rear shafts from different combo's of l series and ej bits.No you can't put the 3.7 behind the ej box.Most n/a ej auto's were 4.11.drof351 wrote:Thanks stamp licker, i tried fitting the ej cv's to the l series shafts, the cups were different and wouldn't fir on the ball cage thing. Asked a cv specialist and they said can't be done. Something about the series of cv's aren't interchangeable. As far as the ratio's go does that mean my 3.7 l series diff can be put behind the ej auto sportswagon gear box? Also what radiator and fan setup is best? Thanks
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It might be easier to just find an earlier model rear diff which has the male stub axels, then it will just go straight into the L series without any fuss.
Should be able to find them fairly easily in whatever ratio you need.
Regarding radiator / fan setups.....
You can hack the bottom radiator support panel out to make a standard Liberty radiator fit but yeah, you have to hack up your car a fair bit.
Alternatively you can use your existing L series radiator and mod the outlets to suit, but this isn't good, the L series radiator core isn't up to the task.
Best way I've found is to use your existing L series radiator frame and get a dual core put in with brass end tanks. This is fairly expensive (bout 500 bucks) and difficult to find a radiator place that does custom work, but seems to work the best.
Radiator fans, Davies Craig 12" work brilliantly and fit between the radiator and the engine, where they are supposed to go. They are abit expensive, alternatives with similar thickness can be had off Ebay and apparently work well but I can't vouch for the quality, Davis Craig are excellent.
The key is to have a very thin fan as there isn't much room between the radiator and the engine.
Make sure when fitting the radiator to get it to fit as far forwards in the engine bay as possible to help with this issue.
Should be able to find them fairly easily in whatever ratio you need.
Regarding radiator / fan setups.....
You can hack the bottom radiator support panel out to make a standard Liberty radiator fit but yeah, you have to hack up your car a fair bit.
Alternatively you can use your existing L series radiator and mod the outlets to suit, but this isn't good, the L series radiator core isn't up to the task.
Best way I've found is to use your existing L series radiator frame and get a dual core put in with brass end tanks. This is fairly expensive (bout 500 bucks) and difficult to find a radiator place that does custom work, but seems to work the best.
Radiator fans, Davies Craig 12" work brilliantly and fit between the radiator and the engine, where they are supposed to go. They are abit expensive, alternatives with similar thickness can be had off Ebay and apparently work well but I can't vouch for the quality, Davis Craig are excellent.
The key is to have a very thin fan as there isn't much room between the radiator and the engine.
Make sure when fitting the radiator to get it to fit as far forwards in the engine bay as possible to help with this issue.
EZ30 L series - Monsterwagon
https://www.ausubaru.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=71&t=26163
https://www.ausubaru.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=71&t=26163
- El_Freddo
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For the rear diff:
Cheers
Bennie
SUBIIE wrote:Rear Diff;
This look fairly straight forward, as the two have the same template but i am not sure about how the splines work on the EJ model diff! Do they simply come off the MY version and fit into the EJ version? Surely not!
Both of these quotes can be found in SUBIIE's Brumby WRX Project thread. I'm sure this will be the answer to your rear diff problemPeeJay wrote:Yes, they do actually! But it you want them to stay in there you need to machine a groove in the stubs for the circlip that holds them in. Have a look at the Impreza shafts and you will see what I mean, the brumby stubs are held in with a bolt through the centre. Oh, and make sure you seal up the hole with silicone or something so your diff oil doesn't leak out.
Cheers
Bennie
- Suby Wan Kenobi
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