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Just got a 1991 Brumby and got a rattle up on my first long drive.
Detected this to be the outer "CV" section on the passenger side of the rear axle.
It seems a bit sloppy where it meets into the rear backing plate.
This is all new to me, my first Brumby.
It would seem that I need to remove and replace this drive shaft from the rear diff to the rear wheel.
Could someone please explain the procedure as I do not have a workshop manual as yet.

I noticed when I put it in 4wd the tension/pressure took up the slack and the rattling ceased, so I drove home in 4WD-High.

Could this "CV" seperate causing the short axle to flay around?

Thanks for your help
masaloi

to replace the shaft you just need to punch the two pins out from the out and inner CV cups which hold them onto the stubs. then you may be able to slip the shaft out....but if it doesnt come out you might need to unbolt the diff mountings and lower the diff down abit. Usually only one side comes out easy and the other needs the diff to be moved. Either way it's pretty straight forward.
When putting a replacement shaft in be careful to line it up on the stubs so the pins can go back through. Be careful here as you can get them 180degrees out - it might "look" okay but if it's 180 out there won't be enough room for the pin to go back through.

also don't drive in 4wd on hard roads it will cause diff lockup and destroy the driveline somewhere.

Wow thanks guys.....Haven't looked under since I posted but reckon I could drive without the rear shafts..is that so?
What would be happen if I drove around with just one shaft till I got a replacement?

Thanks for the tip about not driving on hard roads in 4WD but I already have and goodness knows who might have previously.
I did notice it pretty hard to get the lever back into its normal position with a bit of a CLUNK.

u can drive with a rear shafts out as i read on hear some do it when have welded diffs

those with welded up rear diffs for dirt work remove one rear axle to fit once they hit the dirt saving the diff from self destructing in its CIG welded not diff any more from

yeah removing one axle would do it. in fact you could remove a front axle and drive in 4wd and not cause problems as all the drive would be going to the rear.
It always bugged me that having a 4wd Subaru went and made the main drive front wheel drive when rear wheel drive is far better for most occasions. like pulling a trailer and taking off on a wet road or gravel road. It would not have taken any effort to make it that way.

Rear Axle Problem

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What the problem actually appears to be is spline wear between the outer CV shaft and the stub axle which creates a "sloppy fit" and after hitting a bump in the road it sets up this rattling noise and continues on and off such as-- out of balance front wheels which can subside after a while or when conditions change.

A new or replacement CV section might improve the problem !! but I suppose a replacement/new stub axle is also required..whadaUreckon?
I have had the rear drive axle totally removed..but am uncertain as to what's involved in removing the splined stub axle.
Don't have a manual but I figga it's pretty straight foward eh!

The CV joints seem OK so not much point getting an axle replacement..maybe just the splined section of the axle.

Trust I've made myself clear - what would you do to fix the problem???

Thanking you
masaloi
Australia

pull the drive shafe out and hit to outer end of it with a soft hammer with it in a vice and it will come off and just replace the outer end .
and the iner is held in with a cring wire pull it out and it is all apart clean it all up and look for the parts that are worn and just replace them .

[quote][/QUOTE]pull the drive shafe out and hit to outer end of it with a soft hammer with it in a vice and it will come off and just replace the outer end .
and the iner is held in with a cring wire pull it out and it is all apart clean it all up and look for the parts that are worn and just replace them .

Do I remove the boot first ?...won't get ball bearings flying all over the place I trust.

Here's what another guy suggested..do you think it has any merit.."I think the problem is there is suppose to be a rubber ring (like a washer) on the stub that the shaft pushes up against to take up that slope?"

pull the drive shafe out and hit to outer end of it with a soft hammer with it in a vice and it will come off and just replace the outer end .
and the iner is held in with a cring wire pull it out and it is all apart clean it all up and look for the parts that are worn and just replace them .
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Do I remove the boot first ?...won't get ball bearings flying all over the place I trust.

Here's what another guy suggested..do you think it has any merit.."I think the problem is there is suppose to be a rubber ring (like a washer) on the stub that the shaft pushes up against to take up that slope?"

may be the retaning c ring is missing

sorry u have to remove the rubber boots first .

also don't drive in 4wd on hard roads it will cause diff lockup and destroy the driveline somewhere.

As a NEWBIE to Brumbies/Subarus I find this hard to understand, I would have thought that either 2WD or 4WD/AWD would be OK.
Could you please explain How and Why diff lockup would occur and what sort of damage could be expected....this is not a welded diff.

masaloi wrote:As a NEWBIE to Brumbies/Subarus I find this hard to understand, I would have thought that either 2WD or 4WD/AWD would be OK.
Could you please explain How and Why diff lockup would occur and what sort of damage could be expected....this is not a welded diff.

Old part time 4wd Subarus (pre-Liberty) don't have a centre diff. When you engage 4wd, the centre coupling is locked. On sealed roads where the tyres can't slip, the different rotational speeds of the front and rear diffs build up torsional stress in the driveline.

Dane.

Similiar to having different size wheel or gear ratios front to back eh!

How would this apply to my 1991 Brumby?

BTW Thanks ever so much for sharing your knowledge and whilst at it can you also please explain....."what is" an E10 Torx deep socket

Thanks a million
masaloi

Yep, different diff ratios or tyre sizes front and rear, or just the slightly different paths taken by each wheel as you go around a corner are enough to wind up the driveline. You'll notice wheels locking up and skipping, and steering can become difficult. When it happens, the best way to unwind it is to reverse along the same path that caused the problem.

E10 Torx socket:

E** are male fasteners/female driver (pictured). If they're not very tight, a regular hex socket will often work.
T** are female fasteners/male driver

Dane.

masaloi if you need the manual for the subaru Ive uploaded the whole gregorys manual here it includes the wagon as well as the brumby

http://rapidshare.com/files/256375226/g ... 79_-94.rar

good luck

TOONGA

U guys are just awesome...thanks a million.

Whilst at 73 I've kept all my cars on the road but there is always something new to learn.

Thanks for your help.

at 73 old men never stop learning .
and good to see that .