Not Good News

saxon.hall.00 · Post by **saxon.hall.00** » Wed Sep 09, 2009 8:43 pm

Well, I took my car into mechanic today, and went to pick it up this arvo as planned, but got some bad news. A lot more is wrong with my car than expected, as originally I was only taking in for a service/safety check, timing belt change and a couple of other minor things. To give me a bit of an idea of what I was up for, the mechanic wrote me down a bit of a list of my problems that would be needed fixing/replacing.
This included:

-Rear Brake overhaul, shoes & Cyls (all worn down to near metal)
-Left rear brake drum
-Possible clutch and cable
-Both rack ends
-Both rack boots
-steering rack unknown, (not looking good though)
-Left front tire
-Both timing belts
-5 oils seals
-Radiator Tank (minimum)
-Cv Joints

There is more, but he just said, "You get the picture".

He also thinks the gear box could possibly be on its way out, and he still has the rest of the car to check over if I’m even going to bother.

The way it’s looking I don't think I’m even going to bother getting it fixed as its going to cost more than what I bought the car for.

What does everyone think, leave it as it is and sell it for cheap, take apart and sell for spares, or get it fixed??

Cheers

AlpineRaven · Post by **AlpineRaven** » Wed Sep 09, 2009 8:47 pm

question is... how much did you get the car for? How long have you had it?
How many kms your Subaru has done? Gearbox might just need oil change - is it noisy?
What is the overall condition is in? ie. rust or falling apart panels etc
With these parts above, to save your wallet is to get the car back and replace these parts yourself with our help here if you want specific parts - all you need is to ask and someone might have it or able to send it to you.
Did the mechanic give you a quote of what its gonna cost you?
Sorry to bomb you with questions...
Cheers
AP

edit: Ive been there done that, bought really cheap old car - did it up, clean up replace lot of parts and at the end of the day I got good money for it when i sold it. (bought $350 sold it for $2200)

saxon.hall.00 · Post by **saxon.hall.00** » Wed Sep 09, 2009 9:02 pm

Bought for 2300, had it a year and a half, 266,000km, Gear box is noisy, body in really good condition, paint on its way out, cracking flaking, it was hard for him to give ma a quote as he hadn't finished checking the rest of the car, I got the impression he was pretty much saying it’s going to cost a fair bit, over a grand, and that's for what he had discussed with me, he presumes there is a lot more wrong with it that he hasn't discovered yet that he has to check over.

I feel I haven’t got the experience, time, space and tools to do a project like this?

saxon.hall.00 · Post by **saxon.hall.00** » Wed Sep 09, 2009 9:03 pm

and dont worry about the questions, i really dont know what to do? im thinking a loan of the pars and a forester!

GOD · Post by **GOD** » Wed Sep 09, 2009 9:15 pm

Depends how long you want to keep it. If you spend $2000 getting it shipshape, or even $1000 to get whatever it needs for roadworthiness, it will give you several more years of service. But if you spend $2000 and sell it before Christmas, most of that $2000 will be wasted.

A cheap Forester might need a stack of work in the next six months or so too.

Tough decision, I know.

Dane.

EDIT - looking at that list again, there are a lot of things I'm sure you could do yourself with a few spanners, a workshop manual and maybe a mechanically minded mate: rear brakes, radiator, rack, rack boots, rack ends, clutch cable. Take on one job at a time and shop around for parts, and you 'll save heaps over sending it to the mechanic and telling him to fix everything.

saxon.hall.00 · Post by **saxon.hall.00** » Wed Sep 09, 2009 9:21 pm

Somehow I'm thinking more toward the 2000 to get in shipshape, id keep it for as long as I could prob until I finished Uni in 4 years, but yeah just seems a lot to spend on a car thats prob not worth that much?

GOD · Post by **GOD** » Wed Sep 09, 2009 9:25 pm

saxon.hall.00 wrote:Somehow I'm thinking more toward the 2000 to get in shipshape, id keep it for as long as I could prob until I finished Uni in 4 years, but yeah just seems a lot to spend on a car thats prob not worth that much?

You'll never ever recoup money spent on any car. That goes for an L series and anything you might replace it with. Just fix the important things now, and anything else can be done as necessary, eg the gearbox, which can keep being noisy and crunchy for years before it fails catastrophically.

Dane.

saxon.hall.00 · Post by **saxon.hall.00** » Wed Sep 09, 2009 9:28 pm

So out of that list i made, whats the important things? and how much am i looking at roughly?

twilightprotege · Post by **twilightprotege** » Wed Sep 09, 2009 9:53 pm

imo just spend the money when required. i'm sure any used car could have things replaced if you went over the car with a magnifying glass, but do they really need to be replaced? is a clicking cv joint (assuming it is clicking) the worst thing in the world? it's certainly not going to stop the car from running, along with most of the things there (however DO get your brakes fixed)

GOD · Post by **GOD** » Wed Sep 09, 2009 9:54 pm

My priorities would be:

1. tyres - look around for decent second hand ones. Rotate your best ones to the front where the braking, steering and driving happens.

2. brakes - shoes maybe $40, cylinders I don't know maybe $50-$100 for a pair, drums are no longer available so look for second hand. Pretty straightforward DIY if you can get the 36mm hub nut off.

3. Rack ends/boots/complete rack - sounds daunting, but actually very easy DIY. Boots about $20 each, ends IIRC $30 each.

3. Oil leaks - give the engine a good clean and see where it's leaking from. Anything you can see, you can fix yourself. Minor leaks can be wiped clean before you go in for an inspection.

4. radiator - can be put off longer, but you risk overheating and doing more damage. Dead easy DIY. Find a local agent for these people http://www.sssauto.com.au

5. timing belts - if they fail, the engine will not run, but no further damage will result. Probably get a mechanic to do these, as they are easy to get wrong and must be spot on. Several hours work, probably the most expensive job on the list. Worth doinng cam and crank oil seals at the same time.

6. Clutch cable - can be run to failure, but it's easy to replace so you may as well do it now. A bit fiddly to get in place, but no special tools or skills required. Second hand should be fine.

7. Driveshafts - boots are probably a roadworthy issue. Replacements shouldn't be more than $15 each (two on each corner), but there's a bit of work required to get at them.
If the CVs are getting clunky, complete replacement shafts available on ebay for about $120. The only special tool required to DIY is a 36mm socket for the hub nuts. Not a complex job, but there are a few things to pull apart. Mechanic shouldn't take more than an hour a side.

8. Clutch - run to failure. Several hundred dollars to fix. Requires removal of engine or gearbox.

Priorities might change a bit if you have to pass regualr roadworthiness inspections.

Dane.

phillatdarwin · Post by **phillatdarwin** » Wed Sep 09, 2009 9:59 pm

as with the gearbox my gearbox in my old 83 my was very noisy and i give it a oil chane and put some slick50 gearbox stuff in it and noise from the box all fixed and it did 65,000more km and park it up for 10 years but still have it .

CPOCSM · Post by **CPOCSM** » Wed Sep 09, 2009 10:01 pm

-Rear Brake overhaul, shoes & Cyls (all worn down to near metal) DEFINITELY
-Left rear brake drum - DEFINITELY
-Possible clutch and cableNAH - Good to go
-Both rack endsMmmmm maybe
-Both rack boots Maybe
-steering rack unknown, (not looking good though)NAH
-Left front tireDEFINITELY
-Both timing beltsNah - if they fail, no damage to your car
-5 oils sealsI would - hate oil leaks
-Radiator Tank (minimum)Only if you are overheating
-Cv JointsI would - I hate the clack clack of worn CV's

This is just my spin - I bought my L series for $1200 and have really just put the bare minimum into it in oil and new belts/tyres. I got it at 220k and now has 294k but wouldnt trade it for the world. It is getting tired though and it is starting to show signs of head gasket leaks and general bad form. I am going to just put another EA82 in it(new recon)and keep going for another 300k. CV's and DOJ's getting done as well as centre bearing for the driveshaft and the diff rubber donut bracket(no rubber left in it - all fell out!!)

I love it and have grand plans to get 14 inch rims and more lift. Was barking up the conversion path with a EJ20/22 but dont really need it as Ican get into just as much trouble with the 1.8 litre wheezer and is good on fuel...

Good luck and happy trails!!

phillatdarwin · Post by **phillatdarwin** » Wed Sep 09, 2009 10:06 pm

If the CVs are getting clunky, complete replacement shafts available on ebay for about $120. The only special tool required to DIY is a 36mm socket for the hub nuts. Not a complex job, but there are a few things to pull apart. Mechanic shouldn't take more than an hour a side.
u only need a 36mm socket and a 17mm and it is out and a bit of hitting with a hammer ,pin punch to tack the roll pin out and can do in about 30mins a side a cheaper way to do it is just buy the out side ends and just replace them 10min job .

phillatdarwin · Post by **phillatdarwin** » Wed Sep 09, 2009 10:11 pm

just replace the parts that u need for rego get it work done and that all but u know what work needs to be done later .
i payed 1100 for my car 1.5 years a go and and think cost to much to spend if u look after it .It will run for a long time

saxon.hall.00 · Post by **saxon.hall.00** » Wed Sep 09, 2009 10:12 pm

Thanks for the info Dane, your a champ, I'm gunna suss it out tomorrow and decide what I'm going to do and have a bit more of a chat with the mechanic,

I'm maybe thinking of getting a newer car like a forester or newer liberty with a loan, and just keeping the L series at home and maybe look into getting it fixed with a helping hand from someone via a backyard job through the summer when i have 3 - 4 months off. Then i can take my time with it, get some help through here and not have to rush and pay heaps straight up?

Suby Roo · Post by **Suby Roo** » Fri Sep 11, 2009 2:15 pm

I may be able to help:

-Left rear brake drum - i would have at home
-Possible clutch and cable - ive got a clutch cable
-Both rack ends - should have them
-Both rack boots - should have them
-steering rack unknown, - think my spare is good
-Left front tire - i have a set of 13 inch mags and brand new tyres on them

If you are interested let me know

masaloi · Post by **masaloi** » Sat Sep 12, 2009 7:05 am

saxon.hall.00 wrote:Somehow I'm thinking more toward the 2000 to get in shipshape, id keep it for as long as I could prob until I finished Uni in 4 years, but yeah just seems a lot to spend on a car thats prob not worth that much?

This is the part that really touched me. Seems like you are a young guy trying to get ahead and now loaded with these extra problems that you don't need.
IF you are not mechanically minded and a Mr fixit then surround yourself with some mates who are. Mechanics are supposed to give you an accurate report but in doing so they are trying to restore your car like new when all you really need is to have it running "safely" especially if your battling with finances.
Brakes and Steering are the most basic 2 essentials required.
I just brought a Brumby UTE 1991 with over 300,000ks and expect to do a little work on it.....but take one job at a time......like the BRAKES and Tyre first.
Goodness gracious me..you are just a Uni Student...battle on with the rest for a while and some mechanical minded mates can help you through with some of the other stuff.
The workshop will charge you about $80 per hou just for the labour.....WHERE DO YOU LIVE.

dukbilt · Post by **dukbilt** » Sat Sep 12, 2009 8:41 am

In addition to where do you live, what are you studying? You'll probably find some people in need of your skills who may be happy to barter. They fix your car, you fix their whatever.

Ewan

YouTube · Post by **El_Freddo** » Sat Sep 12, 2009 3:28 pm

Everyone is going to be different on this topic, but one thing's for sure - the brakes and tyres are the most important. The steering would be up there too.

When I read your first post the thing that was going through my mind was - How long have you known this mechanic? Does he hate working on subarus? And is he taking you for a ride?

I don't see why you'd need to replace the rear drum. If its outside Roadworthy specifications I wouldn't worry about it unless you're getting it roadworthied to sell or rego'd. The shoes are easy to swap - just don't breathe the dust in (wash with water first). If you've got leaking rear slave cylinders there's a little more involved but some mates in the know will sort you out with this.

Radiator - when you say "radiator tank" what exactly are you suggesting? - the side tank of the radiator or the coolant overflow bottle? If its the radiator you can take it to a radiator joint and see if they can rod it (clean out the cooling channels that the coolant flows through). An L series can still operate ok on a radiator that's 50% blocked!

The steering rack - do you have a lot of play in the steering wheel? If so the rack would probabily be good to replace, if not don't replace it...

The oil leaks - I was one to keep topping up the oil - most of the oil leaks on the EA are too difficult to get to replace so I didn't bother, and I ran the cheapest oil I could find anyway... Now that I've got the EJ I'll be watching leaks like a hawk! Also, five seals on the EA? I'm not sure that I can count that many! Actually I can - JUST. 2 cam, 2 crank and 1 oil pump shaft seal...

CV joints. As already said, if the boots split get onto it! If you leave a split boot it will dry out the moving parts and cause it to fail soon. If they're happily clicking away I wouldn't worry about it. I've had mine clicking for 2 years without any failure. I have replace them with new items since the EJ went in - $330 for the pair (including GST) from a local shop in benders - no ebay jobs for me as I've read too many issues with breaking them and trying to get the money back or a replacement item...

The gearbox - prob best to drop the oil and put some fresh stuff in there, and make sure you've got enough in there too! If its worrying you, keep driving but start saving for a replacement box (and do the clutch at the same time) or a newer subi.

I went through uni doing all the same things you have - I even managed to get most of the bits I needed for the EJ conversion while I was at uni. But I have done everything myself which is the real money saver when it comes to any sort of vehicle!

Grap a service manual and at least have a read. Then drop over to a mechanically minded mate's joint and have a go at a few things yourself.

You could also get a second opinion from another mechanic.

Cheers

Bennie