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To give a quick run down of the scenario.
I have a Gen3 TT, which was a 2000 with Auto Trans.
I blew a turbo and a big end, and decided to get a 99 TT manual half cut.

Installed the half cut, replaced Engine and ECU harness, and used the half cut ECU.
When starting the car i am noticing a few issues which maybe you could help me resolve.
The car is hunting at idle and will stall, if i apply revs it purrs nicely, but will drop the revs again after 5 or so seconds.
When driving it feels ok, but a bit hesitant and seems to lag before the turbos spool and occasionally i can hear a pop from the POD.

The timing belt has been replaced by mechanic.

The errors that are appearing are as followed.
CEL brings up code 22 and 23 which to my knowledge (and ECUExplorer) are:
22: Knock Sensor
23: Mass Air Flow Sensor Circuit

And the error codes that appear on ECU Explorer are:
P0113: Intake Air Temperature Sensor Circuit Malfunction (High Input)
P0111: Intake Air Temperature Sensor Range/Performance Problem.
P0336: Crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Problem.

Tha ABS Light is also constantly light on the dash.

Here are some things that i have done to try and sort out the issues.

Replace the crankshaft position sensor
Replace the MAF (with the one from my original motor)
Swap ECU's
Check for VAC leaks
Trace Crankshaft sensor continuity back to ECU
Reset ECU
New battery
Will replace the 02 sensor shortly as 1 of the 3 wires are broken
Replace TPS
Checked Fuses

So now i am stuck, and before i take it to a Auto Elec, I was hoping to get some insight from the board.

If you have any ideas that would be great as I feel i am so close to having it going, but so far away at the same time.

Thanks guys
Adam

Been flogging the ol' Gen 3 eh?! Nice...

As for your problem I have heard of this theory of "drive it like you stole it" attitude after re-setting the ECU, which would have occured after sometime without power. That said, it shouldn't be throwing codes at you so soon...

What was the difference between the codes given from the original ECU when you chucked it in? If it gave the same codes it sounds like you may not have needed to swap the wiring (but I would have done the same knowing subaru wiring) - this could be the problem with the ABS light, the '99 loom can't "talk" to the ABS unit.

As for the popping in the intake, it sounds like something is mis-timed - how exactly does it happen? Full throttle?

You said the belt had been put on by a mechanic - are you sure its not a tooth out? This would have a dramatic effect on the performance as one side of the motor, or one cam doesn't tow the line like it should - it will give you that feeling that it wants to go but doesn't, I've been there and done that on my EA82 (same same different I know, but you know what I mean). After putting the cam belt on my EJ on saturday, I can see how easy it would be to get one cam or one cam bank out by a tooth... Bust the cam cover off and see what it looks like - the top cams will have a single mark that will line up with a single mark on the cam backing cover, on the same cam down the bottom there will be two marks close together that will/should line up with the same two marks on the top of the exhaust cam. If any of them are out that'll be your problem - If both sides don't line up together at the same time you'll have to pull all the front off to re-do the cam timing. After typing all of that I hope I'm not telling you stuff you already know (cam timing).

All the best with it mate.

Cheers

Bennie

sometimes. like as quoted in CODA equipment sales blurbs, error codes thrown does not indicate all is stuffed, just one thing can cause more codes. broken O2 wire? which one? do you know its function? the ecu may fail to cooperate here because of that.

do a search of members, Ian - LegacyTT ? you been talking to him? dunno if his name is his dream or he has and knows one and in Tassie or was anyway. Another from way back is Chris_Rogers sound audio auto electrcian installer Brisbane way was doing an L Series wagon with the absolute option TT EJ from memory. He was pretty clued up on electrics when he contributed - suddenly went real quiet - might have got married or divorced.

I may have a spare ECU as a loaner! if thats what you think it is!

So what's happening fatz?

Cheers

Bennie

Sorry about the delayed reply, I forgot all about this post.

El_Freddo wrote:Been flogging the ol' Gen 3 eh?! Nice...

Yeah had a bit of fun and the track.

As for your problem I have heard of this theory of "drive it like you stole it" attitude after re-setting the ECU, which would have occured after sometime without power. That said, it shouldn't be throwing codes at you so soon...

What was the difference between the codes given from the original ECU when you chucked it in? If it gave the same codes it sounds like you may not have needed to swap the wiring (but I would have done the same knowing subaru wiring) - this could be the problem with the ABS light, the '99 loom can't "talk" to the ABS unit.

The ABS light issues is due to the Auto ABS unit was kept in the car.
The error codes stay the same regardless of what ECU I try.

As for the popping in the intake, it sounds like something is mis-timed - how exactly does it happen? Full throttle?

The popping mainly occurs when cold at low revs when i try accelerate. Regardless of the throttle position the revs don't change unless i slowly ease it.

You said the belt had been put on by a mechanic - are you sure its not a tooth out? This would have a dramatic effect on the performance as one side of the motor, or one cam doesn't tow the line like it should - it will give you that feeling that it wants to go but doesn't, I've been there and done that on my EA82 (same same different I know, but you know what I mean). After putting the cam belt on my EJ on saturday, I can see how easy it would be to get one cam or one cam bank out by a tooth... Bust the cam cover off and see what it looks like - the top cams will have a single mark that will line up with a single mark on the cam backing cover, on the same cam down the bottom there will be two marks close together that will/should line up with the same two marks on the top of the exhaust cam. If any of them are out that'll be your problem - If both sides don't line up together at the same time you'll have to pull all the front off to re-do the cam timing. After typing all of that I hope I'm not telling you stuff you already know (cam timing).

I haven't had time to check the timing yet as I have been flat out at work over the last few weeks. Will hopefully get around to it this weekend.

All the best with it mate.

Thanks

Bennie

steptoe wrote:sometimes. like as quoted in CODA equipment sales blurbs, error codes thrown does not indicate all is stuffed, just one thing can cause more codes. broken O2 wire? which one? do you know its function? the ecu may fail to cooperate here because of that.

Not sure what the wire actually was for, think it was a heater wire? But i have replaced the sensor now with no real change to the idle.

tex wrote:I may have a spare ECU as a loaner! if thats what you think it is!

Thanks but I'm 90% sure it's not the ECU as i have tried 2... But I will keep it in mind thanks.

El_Freddo wrote:So what's happening fatz?

Cheers

Bennie

Still no good as you may have figured out..
Replaced 02 sensor with no real changes.
I also found that when the car is warm, it idles and drives nicely.. but horribly when cold.
Could this result in a dud coolant temp sensor?
I have a new knock sensor that i will replace on the weekend also..

Thanks for your input guys.

Adam