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Can someone tell me something?? Is the 5speed box that sits behind the EA82T, the same dimensions as the 4speed brumby box.

The main info I am after is regarding the output shafts. The distance across the box from the end of one output shaft to the other, is there any difference. The width in other words. Therefore if an EA82T with a five speed box is put into a brumby, does the distance from the output shaft to the wheel hub change,any difference in axle span???

Thanks

The distance for the front CV's is the same however the Tailshaft length is different. You will need to either make a ustom one out of the Brumby one or mount the center bearing in the L series on and mount it up.
Also the box is slightly larger then the 4 speed brumby box, it will fit but may need some Transmission tunnel adjustment if the Brumby isn't Lifted.

You will also need the L series gear selector for the forward and reverse gears - the 4wd shifter should be able to retro-fitted to the L series gearbox.

If its a gearbox from a turbo or an MPFI fitted L, you'll need 25 spline inner cups to replace the MY inner cups, make sure you get the MPFI NON-turbo cups as these will fit your standard MY shaft ball cage without a problem. The turbo cups are a larger diametre.

Hope this helps.

Cheers

Bennie

Thanks, its the distance across the front output shafts that I was after, that is that they are both the same.

I should explain. It already has an EA82T MFPI engine and five speed box installed in an 88 brumby. I have ripped all the L series front out (which wasn't working out for me), and reinstalled brumby components. It is sitting on jacks with brumby hubs, axles, radius rods, control arms etc yet still is as bowed legged as an old cowboy from Mt isa (excessive Positive camber... \ /... ) .

If its a question of geometrics, then the subframe, width of the gearbox and strut towers complete the mathematics. I can't find why this car (has a three inch lift) is giving me excessive positive camber in the front.

subybrumby wrote:If its a question of geometrics, then the subframe, width of the gearbox and strut towers complete the mathematics. I can't find why this car (has a three inch lift) is giving me excessive positive camber in the front.

It'll be your strut tops - they won't have the camber adjustment built into them. Either that or there's no lift blocks on the engine crossmember or those blocks are too small (a 2 inch lift instead of a 3 like the strut tops are).

And the front end won't settle until it has the weight of the subi back on the wheels and its been rolled forward a few metres (and back again will help too).

Hope this is helpful.

Cheers

Bennie

PS: I'd keep the 5 speed and motor, just sort out the camber issue - it sounds like this is what your wanting to do.

I'd put my money on it being the lift kit Was it home made by any chance?

Bennie

I'll stay with it. Thanks for that el freddo. It came with the lift kit and it looks good quality probably professionally made.

It has the 3" lift under the strut top and also the sub frame. The blocks under the rear mounting point for the radius rods look smaller, 2" I'd say but I don't think that that would matter.I can't see what would be causing this but I'll put it back on the ground and see if it rolls out. Has 14' wheels too of course but shouldn't make a difference. I spoke with PHIZINZA bout this a while back and it came with a brumby front end but had L series hubs with the vented discs and bigger callipers mounted on the brumby control arm. He thought that the L series hub on the brumby control arm would be causing the problem as he indicated that the brumby and L series hubs were a different angle through the vertical.. I went full L series front with the falcon radius rods to fix the camber (But it didn't work out) but have now gone back to the brumby front with brumby hubs but still look like I have serious positive camber issues. It also looks like it has aftermarket gas struts.??? would they make a difference, I wouldn't think so.

Anyway, I'll persevere....

and as usual, if it is the real EA82T manual 5 speed 4WD it will have 25 spline stubs as opposed to 23 of the NA EA82 box

If you can post up some pics it might help?

I'll do that., The standard brumby factory axles that I have bought slide straight onto the gearbox output shafts, so that would make it a 23 spline N/A L series box then.??

So its not the gearbox that would have come with that motor? And is it the same distance across the box as the brumby box. Because if it was wider, the axles are pushing out further and would cause the control arm to pull the bottom of the hub in.

Just trying to work this out. (Don't ya luv a puzzle)

As I see it, three things control the vertical geometry of the wheel, presuming all things are standard including the brumby knuckle (Wheel hub).

*The distance between the strut tops
*the horizontal location of the axle
*The combined width of the two control arms and cross member,

I'll get photos for you tomorrow. Show you what I have been doing. Thanx

Well, I've put original brumby front end back in...I've got it off the jacks and rolled it out. It looked awful but surprise, surprise it has rolled itself out reasonable well and I suppose this will be as best as I'll get.
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Worried about wear on the inside of the tyres..

I have the vented disc and larger front calipers (Prob L series) fitted that wont attach to the brumby front hub.

Does anybody in the Toowoomba or south east Qld area have the brumby front disc rotors and brake calipers in good condition that I can get to finish this thanks.

Subybrumby, that sort of camber is what it came with from factory... don't stress about it. And if you've got lifted springs it'll amplify the negative camber...

Cheers

Bennie

No worries, El Freddo, I'm starting to see some light at the end of the tunnel I think, its been a long haul. Thanks for all your help and advice. I appreciated it. And others that contributed, thanks.