ea82t questions

shuffbag · Post by **shuffbag** » Wed Apr 22, 2009 11:04 pm

so i've almost finished putting my ea82t together to make my rx go, but i've been making the the motor from mainly one engine but have the orig stuffed one that i need to take parts from.

the stuffed one had previously had work done to it from what i could see (head work) but also had a whole lot stripped of the intake manifold so my questions are...

and

from the orig intake are in the first pic it is blocked of by a plate (mine has something attached) is there a benifit to block my other intake in the same way?
and the second pic altho this little do'dad is on both intakes, it is not plugged in via vaccum line like the other i have. can i remove the whole vac line as both items are linked on the same line?

and last but prob not my last question on these motors...

the pipe that feeds in to the base of pic one in to (or from) the exhaust one motor has it, the other doesnt.. can i remove it?

were ever i have talked about removing lines/pipe i understand the origins will need to be blocked.

SCOOBIDOO · Post by **SCOOBIDOO** » Thu Apr 23, 2009 7:54 am

I am in adelaide too,if you want you can look at my setup which is complete and connect all the stuff you want,write note,s etc....pm me if you want to look,cheers

twilightprotege · Post by **twilightprotege** » Thu Apr 23, 2009 9:27 am

the first picture is the EGR, probably best to leave that intact. i assume the 2nd one is the thing that tells the EGR to work or not

shuffbag · Post by **shuffbag** » Thu Apr 23, 2009 9:42 am

doing a little reading on egr's via google and found out that the egr just runs exhuast gas back through the engine, so i should just be able to disconect like the blue intake pictured above.

main reason for this is the tube is being a bastard to screw into the back of the intake.
the engine used to run fine so.. remove and block

twilightprotege · Post by **twilightprotege** » Thu Apr 23, 2009 9:52 am

yeah you can definately remove it, however the idea behind EGR is to reduce combustion temperature when it's in use (basically because there is less oxygen to burn, thus less fuel) and lower fuel usage. also it's probably illegal to remove, afterall you are removing an emissions item...

steptoe · Post by **steptoe** » Thu Apr 23, 2009 11:34 am

In here and other places you will read/hear that to disconnect the EGR will give more power.

I am here to say CRAP. I found that the ECU 3 plug is supposed to only allow the EGR valve to operate by that solenoid you point out above:

1. at operating temp
2. below 45kph no meant to open above 45 kph
3. not at idle uses TPS?
4. because it needs vacuum to operate does not open when you got boost and boost is where power is measured

I initially found my solenoid to have stuck one way or the other. The first ECU code read and cleared on this car after I replaced it with one that worked off a carby EA82. You can test with multi meter and or power and vac connected.

I found my ECU does not limit its operation when cold or above 45kph, works at all temps at all speeds NOTICED that it operates between zero and 10 in HG on the vacuum gauge. I Teed in a working spare inside cabin and felt its diaphragm move at all op speeds to test this.

I too used to HATE the tight fitting EGR bits but subies been fine with right tool and approach

Another point to hook up and use EGR is a a reduction of .05 to 0.8 litre per hundred km I got repeatedly afterwards

when the vac is not powering up the egr it is simply bled off to the intake boot between turbo and afm - from memory